S1 or S2 rallye box

  1. #1
    Wot box do you guys think i should run with my setup?? I hav an S2 gearbox but have been offered a swap with an S1 box.

    The car will have roughly 190bhp n/a
  2. #2
    what rev limit you going to be using?
  3. #3
    8.6-9k depends on peak power.
  4. #4
    and what terminal speeds have you been hiting when gaylineing??

    and what terminals you hoping for?
  5. #5
    I have been gaylining at 100mph!! Guessing around 107-110 now.... Gona be more of a track car now.
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by vtr130 View Post
    I have been gaylining at 100mph!! Guessing around 107-110 now.... Gona be more of a track car now.
    ahaha figured out corners are more fun and 1/4s dont give you a 20" cock?

    need to figure out each speed of each box in each gear, to see good compramise.

    ive got an s1 one on my track car. not had chance to test it yet, ytou should have a useable 1st gear with that rev limit though.
  7. #7
    Well hence the full cage, strut braces, bushes i just bought nd the diff im getting

    Anyways im still not sure and i couldn't work tht kinda things out!!
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by vtr130 View Post
    Well hence the full cage, strut braces, bushes i just bought nd the diff im getting

    Anyways im still not sure and i couldn't work tht kinda things out!!
    how soon do you need to know by?

    im away for a few days so cant work out the speeds in each gear at that rev limit.

    alexR or alex on ssc will have a table for it though to give you info you may want.
  9. #9
    Ok kewl i will contact them... But i don't need to know to soon, i can swap the boxes anytime really if they aren't what i want.
  10. #10
    i think the s1 with your rev limit may be good, but it depends where the power is, and the rpm in each gear.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by vtr130 View Post
    Wot box do you guys think i should run with my setup?? I hav an S2 gearbox but have been offered a swap with an S1 box.

    The car will have roughly 190bhp n/a
    NONE. There both totally the wrong box. To get 190bhp out of TU without boost you end up with a lot of revs and a very short power band. Low final drive and close ratios are called for.

    PS, Get a new or used race box. There are always people selling them. I have two but one would need a lower FD and one is not cheap.
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    NONE. There both totally the wrong box. To get 190bhp out of TU without boost you end up with a lot of revs and a very short power band. Low final drive and close ratios are called for.

    PS, Get a new or used race box. There are always people selling them. I have two but one would need a lower FD and one is not cheap.
    what if people cant afford to buy race boxes, with gearsets such as the quaife one?

    dont you agree that if they are sticking with the PSA standard boxes then these would be a better option over say a vts box.
  13. #13
    I see what you are saying and I do agree. But if you cannot afford the race box you really can not afford the engine.
  14. #14
    Exactly what ax racing said, with 190bhp na I wouldn’t use either! It will have a small power band. Close ratios is a must as ax said… only problem is a sacrificed top speed but it will make the world of difference in acceleration!

    What sort of top speed are you after? And what tires you using? I’ve got a spreadsheet of all the saxo, 106 and quaife ratios that I know of with all combinations of final drives.

    @9000rpm…

    S1 Rallye

    1st - 31.8mph
    2nd - 66.7mph
    3rd - 96.3mph
    4th - 123.8mph
    5th - 153.0mph

    S2 Rallye

    1st - 42.6mph
    2nd - 74.6mph
    3rd - 107.7mph
    4th - 138.5mph
    5th - 171.1mph

    Quaife dog box with 4.538 final drive

    1st - 3.1 - 42.0mph
    2nd - 2.333 - 55.8mph
    3rd - 1.778 - 73.2mph
    4th - 1.429 - 91.0mph
    5th - 1.235 - 105.3mph


    Quaife make a few different gearsets and have many different final drives so theres loads of possible combinations… helical or straight cut, synchro or non synchro

    You can see the difference between the close ratio box… gives you a nice long 1st and 4 usable gears after that

    Off the top of my head I think the synchro gearsets go for about £1000 and the non synchro for about £3000 so as said it would be cheaper to get a second hand box…

    If you can afford to get 190bhp… surely you can afford a race box to go with it... would be a waste not to! You might as well just save up for a second hand one it will be well worth it in the long run and would sound ace with straight cut gears!
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    I see what you are saying and I do agree. But if you cannot afford the race box you really can not afford the engine.
    in an ideal world we would all have a sadeev or simlar box like bic


    i know how important ratios are on an engine, the wrong gearkit can totally ruin several grands worth of engine.

    i just know alot of people are willing to spend ££££ on an engine and only want a standard of a quaifed gearbox.

    what gearsets do you recommend? you a fan of the quaife gearset? irc thats what daveP (rallye reg) is gonna be using when his hill climb car is finished
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joesnow View Post
    it will be well worth it in the long run and would sound ace with straight cut gears!
    back in the day on ssc someone had one on a standard saxo! insanity lol
  17. #17
    The Peugeot Sport and Citroen Sport I think very good. There what I am using at the moment. Never had a problem with the Quaife parts. I have one set in a box at the moment for the faster tracks but I don’t race on them any more so its up for grabs. I am using a mix of Peugeot Sport and Citroen Sport cluster and final drive with a AP plate less diff (cant spell its real name) I tend to avoid dog boxes as they don’t tend to last long. A friend of mine has had hell on with the old 6 speed sequential kit car boxes so is now just running a BE box now.
  18. #18
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    The Peugeot Sport and Citroen Sport I think very good. There what I am using at the moment. Never had a problem with the Quaife parts. I have one set in a box at the moment for the faster tracks but I don’t race on them any more so its up for grabs. I am using a mix of Peugeot Sport and Citroen Sport cluster and final drive with a AP plate less diff (cant spell its real name) I tend to avoid dog boxes as they don’t tend to last long. A friend of mine has had hell on with the old 6 speed sequential kit car boxes so is now just running a BE box now.
    the joys of a proper gearset, interchaging the gears. the standard boxes you cant really do that

    I really wish they had done a box like the S1 rallye but with a longer first, it would be alot better box then
  19. #19
    I know a chap who races 106s... He was selling a few racing boxes on Ebay a month back. I think their possibly still for sale.

    EDIT: Ebay link (it's old now...)

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Peugeot-106-GT...QQcmdZViewItem
  20. #20
    That Quaife dog box looks awesome. You would get through the gears so quickly. I would imagine that the power band would have to be VERY narrow for that box. Thing is though, wouldn't it be a bit of pot luck with a gear box like that? As in, you might not have the ratios set up exactly where you want them, so with the ratios being so close together, it might not work well at all... ?
  21. #21
    The best thing to do would be to have it set up on a decent engine dyno and get a nice torque/rpm graph… then work out the best ratios to suit your engine with what size tires, rev limit weight of car and what sort of track your racing etc

    I’m sure if you email a decent graph to a tuning a company and tell them these details they will work out the optimum ratios for your engine so you have maximum torque at he wheels for the maximum amount of time… would probs even have custom ratios made up…

    That was just an example of a race type box with the long 1st etc… those ratios are quite close… could have one with a similar 1st but a higher top speed so gears 2-5 are spaced out a bit more…
  22. #22
    There are not that many ratios available for the MA box. Normally the only thing you have to worry about is final drives. That is easy to work out what one is best for you and it’s not to hard to change. Last time I pade to have one done it was at TMS and it worked out at £350 plus the vat with all new final drive. Though TMS is no more now so don’t know who would be best to go to. Though I know people that di it there self. More so with the AP diffs.
  23. #23
    One of the only things I'm not looking forward to when starting to use my car for track days, is simply the gear box. I find it difficult down-shifting even when I'm not trying to go particularly quick...

    As you chaps obviously know a fair bit about this subject, what would you suggest I do gear box wise? If I'm going to spend a few thousand on the TB package, it would be pretty sad not to do anything about the gear box, after all, that will play a massive part in the overall driveability of the car.

    I've recently swapped my stock gear box for an S1 gear box, and don't get me wrong, it's great fun for road use, but I'd seriously struggle around a track with it.
  24. #24
    Does anyone know anyone with a decent gearbox for sale?
  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by vtr130 View Post
    Does anyone know anyone with a decent gearbox for sale?
    Yes me. I tend to always have used and new race boxs for sale.
  26. #26
    Ok mate, give me a list of what you have got and prices please!! Pref one with a quaife atb
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    I've recently swapped my stock gear box for an S1 gear box, and don't get me wrong, it's great fun for road use, but I'd seriously struggle around a track with it.
    why do you think your gonna struggle on a track dude?
  28. #28
    What’s your engine rev to? or what will it rev to with throttle bodies? And what sort of speeds can you get on a track?
  29. #29
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joesnow View Post
    What’s your engine rev to? or what will it rev to with throttle bodies? And what sort of speeds can you get on a track?
    i know toad is on 708s currently, so 7800rpm effectively.

    donno what hes doing with tbs, may go solids and more wild cams to go to 8.5K

    im sticking with my s1 box and a 7800rpm limit and 157.2bhp
  30. #30
    It’s not too bad at 7800rpm for a few track days… thing is how fast and slow will you be going round a track?

    S1 @7800rpm

    1st – 33mph
    2nd – 58mph
    3rd – 84mph
    4th – 107mph
    5th – 133mph

    S1 @ 8500

    1st – 36mph
    2nd – 63mph
    3rd – 91mph
    4th – 117mph
    5th – 145mph

    Say you do 35mph round a hairpin and can get 100mph on the straight… 1st wont be used at all and neither will 5th and only a bit of 4th… so your only using 2 and a bit gears out of 5… you might not even get into the power band in 4th…

    If you think of the time the torque is at the wheels for (only 2 times out of 5) when it could be 5/5… there’s quite an advantage to be had...its a bit more complex than that though…

    How longs the power band on 708s?
  31. #31
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joesnow View Post
    It’s not too bad at 7800rpm for a few track days… thing is how fast and slow will you be going round a track?

    S1 @7800rpm

    1st – 33mph
    2nd – 58mph
    3rd – 84mph
    4th – 107mph
    5th – 133mph

    S1 @ 8500

    1st – 36mph
    2nd – 63mph
    3rd – 91mph
    4th – 117mph
    5th – 145mph

    Say you do 35mph round a hairpin and can get 100mph on the straight… 1st wont be used at all and neither will 5th and only a bit of 4th… so your only using 2 and a bit gears out of 5… you might not even get into the power band in 4th…

    If you think of the time the torque is at the wheels for (only 2 times out of 5) when it could be 5/5… there’s quite an advantage to be had...its a bit more complex than that though…

    How longs the power band on 708s?

    powerband is 3/4.5-7.5k IRC for 708s, need to confirm it though

    my cams are cup car cams and wont know any spec on em lol! brands is my local track, part of me thinks i should have diffed up my 1.4xsi box, but i just had to get the s1 box diffed up and on lol
  32. #32
    I bet it doesn’t hang about! I wish someone would hurry up and employ me so I can afford some goodies! I want a diff SO badly! lol
  33. #33
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joesnow View Post
    I bet it doesn’t hang about! I wish someone would hurry up and employ me so I can afford some goodies! I want a diff SO badly! lol
    its not finished yet, i need some stuff on the shell welding.

    then it should be ready to play with, 16v, bodies, s1 box and a diff - totally stripped. should be shits and giggles me thinks
  34. #34
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Itsafastworld85 View Post
    should be shits and giggles me thinks
    I thinkso
  35. #35
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joesnow View Post
    It’s not too bad at 7800rpm for a few track days… thing is how fast and slow will you be going round a track?

    S1 @7800rpm

    1st – 33mph
    2nd – 58mph
    3rd – 84mph
    4th – 107mph
    5th – 133mph

    S1 @ 8500

    1st – 36mph
    2nd – 63mph
    3rd – 91mph
    4th – 117mph
    5th – 145mph

    Say you do 35mph round a hairpin and can get 100mph on the straight… 1st wont be used at all and neither will 5th and only a bit of 4th… so your only using 2 and a bit gears out of 5… you might not even get into the power band in 4th…

    If you think of the time the torque is at the wheels for (only 2 times out of 5) when it could be 5/5… there’s quite an advantage to be had...its a bit more complex than that though…

    How longs the power band on 708s?

    remember though it isnt always best to keep it at really hi revs, sometimes your better off short shifting to get round a series of corners quicker, ie:
    instead of keeping it at 7k in 3rd through some corners, you could go through them quicker by changing into 4th, get what i mean?
  36. #36
    plus the final drive should also effect the in gear performance should it not?
  37. #37
    Sorry, I've been slacking! Thanks for discussing all this.

    Ryan, by struggling, I was actual talking about how hard it is to make the changes. Soz, didn't really make that too clear.

    With regard to the power band... Max BHP is @ 7200 and max ft/lb is @ 5500. Ideally, I want to keep the revs in between those figures, i.e., shift @ 7200 to drop back into max tf/lb range... In my humble opinion (gear boxes are NOT my speciallity!!!) the S1 box copes with this fairly well. The rev drop is pretty good. You can take 1st to 7800 and 2nd drops back nicely into the power band. Obviously the issue is 1st is almost a redundant gear now.

    I was watching the F1 the other day, and you can see when they do the HUD on the TV screen, that the have a tall 1st and 2nd (I think) gear, as they come out of a corner in low'ish revs, but once they change up after that, it's literally like just like 3rd 4th 5th 6th... Wierd, you see them as low as like 10k around a slow'ish corner, then they take it all the way to like 19k and the next gear drops back to only like 17.5k, and on and on...
  38. #38
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by williamsvts View Post
    remember though it isnt always best to keep it at really hi revs, sometimes your better off short shifting to get round a series of corners quicker, ie:
    instead of keeping it at 7k in 3rd through some corners, you could go through them quicker by changing into 4th, get what i mean?
    Yeah I know what you mean… would probably be best to get a box made up for a particular track if your really competitive…

    I had a lecture at uni from a chief gearbox engineer at mclaren F1… there’s so much work that goes into designing a gearbox… think the teams have just recently been restricted to one gear cluster per season because they were making custom ratios for each track… quite a lot of work involved in designing a box that will work well on all tracks

    That dog box probably wouldn’t be that suitable for 708s… the power bands quite broad and you would just be changing gear all the time… could do a lot better than the s1 box though…

    On a track doing 30-120mph…

    Quaife synchro close ratio with VTS final drive @ 7800rpm

    1st – 51mph
    2nd – 74mph
    3rd – 91mph
    4th – 109mph
    5th – 125mph

    Would get to use all 5 gears

    That’s the cheapest Quaife gearset it works with all standard final drives and costs about £1k
  39. #39
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    Ryan, by struggling, I was actual talking about how hard it is to make the changes. Soz, didn't really make that too clear.
    What you mean about having difficulty changing? It crunching?

    Dog engagement would allow quicker shifts… but as ax said they don’t last long but not too sure how long? And not sure how much abuse that’s with?

    Loads of motorbikes have non synchro engagement and last fine… think they will last longer if you use the clutch to change… I used to have a motocross bike that had dog engagement and it was spot on… could just nock it into gear without the clutch and never had any problems

    Think it should last for a while if you used the clutch? I’m not to sure though? I dunno if it’s a great idea if you’re going to be using it for the road too…?

    Yeah F1 cars have a massive 1st... so do sports bikes then the rest of the gears seem to be evenly spaced out
  40. #40
    That sounds fantastic. That 1st gear is seriously tall. OK, serious noddy question coming up! What's the gearset on its own? And what work would be required to fit it into my current box?

    Cheers Joe!
  41. #41
    By difficulty, I mean down-shifting mainly. I often miss it completely, it's a real pain.
  42. #42
    http://www.quaife.co.uk/Citroen-Saxo...Quaife-gearkit

    You guess you just get what’s in that pic…? Bet it’s a pain in the arse to fit… I couldn’t really say as I’ve never done it before.

    You got a lsd in your rallye box? Would work out cheaper if you got it all done at once… and I’m sure you would get good money back for it if you sell up.



    have a look on

    http://www.rallyusedparts.co.uk/show...4617#Gearboxes

    every now and then I’ve seen some for sale in the past but none recently… there’s a rallye box with a plate diff in going for £750
  43. #43
    OK, thanks I'll keep an eye on it. I've already got the Rallye box, so probably won't bother with that one. I will definately be looking into getting the Quaife ATB LSD however.
  44. #44
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    That sounds fantastic. That 1st gear is seriously tall. OK, serious noddy question coming up! What's the gearset on its own? And what work would be required to fit it into my current box?

    Cheers Joe!
    to much! lol
  45. #45
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    OK, thanks I'll keep an eye on it. I've already got the Rallye box, so probably won't bother with that one. I will definately be looking into getting the Quaife ATB LSD however.
    ill still stand by that a sports ratio box from OE with one of the better final drives is the best option for 99% of users when factoring the costs of a proper gearset.
  46. #46
    That Quaife one is £1150 + VAT!
  47. #47
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    That Quaife one is £1150 + VAT!
    yep performance doesnt come cheap, its why i say £ for £ the OE ones are not to bad.
  48. #48
    speed
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Itsafastworld85 View Post
    ill still stand by that a sports ratio box from OE with one of the better final drives is the best option for 99% of users when factoring the costs of a proper gearset.
    Not really. Even for the stock engine there wrong for any sort of track or fast road work. 1st gear is way to low and lowering the final drive will just compound that problem. It’s not as if were all doing hill starts with 5 fat people and there shopping in our cars. Then in every gear the car comes off the boil. Just simply putting a good box in will get you much better lap times. With a tuned car you get even bigger problems as they tend to be even peaky. You will have to have a go in my car some day and then you will see how much they really do help. I tend to say box before any big work on the engine unless its boost.
  49. #49
    You ain't wrong Ryan.

    EDIT: OK, maybe you are! lol. ...Just kidding

    Ax, do you see any cheaper option for me than forking out all that for the Quaife gearset? The stats look great though, that 1st is perfect!
  50. #50
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    speed

    Not really. Even for the stock engine there wrong for any sort of track or fast road work. 1st gear is way to low and lowering the final drive will just compound that problem. It’s not as if were all doing hill starts with 5 fat people and there shopping in our cars. Then in every gear the car comes off the boil. Just simply putting a good box in will get you much better lap times. With a tuned car you get even bigger problems as they tend to be even peaky. You will have to have a go in my car some day and then you will see how much they really do help. I tend to say box before any big work on the engine unless its boost.
    but alot of people cannot justify 1100+ vat on a gearset + rebuild charges dude, thats why i say 99% of users they are perfectly fine.

    a go in your car sounds fun!

    Im not disagreeing they are important, quite the opposite, just that £ for £ and knowing most peoples budgets, the sports ratio boxes from standard do a fine job of enabling you to have fun and run respectable times.

    im personally not worried about having a really short first as i find the MA boxes dont like going into first when moving anyway, so having a slightly, so finding ill be using 2nd,3rd and 4th is something im quite happy with for just hooning about a track for shits and gigles
  51. #51
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    You ain't wrong Ryan.

    EDIT: OK, maybe you are! lol. ...Just kidding

    Ax, do you see any cheaper option for me than forking out all that for the Quaife gearset? The stats look great though, that 1st is perfect!
    yes buy his old box

    the gearbox someone i knew of someone sounded perfect in his 7.

    huge long first gear, then short perfectly spaced gears the rest of the cluster.
  52. #52
    I've had a lot of fun with the S1 Rallye gearbox. The rev drop isn't that bad to be fair. 1st gear is the big issue I feel. Changing twice before you hit 60 mph is a bit pony...
  53. #53
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    Changing twice before you hit 60 mph is a bit pony...
    you do that in most saxos on std rev limit anyway.

    you did say you found when you fitted the s1 the car picked up quicker.
  54. #54
    OK, changing twice WELL before you hit 60 mph is a bit pony...
  55. #55
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    OK, changing twice WELL before you hit 60 mph is a bit pony...
    lol...
  56. #56
    good read this is
  57. #57
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Itsafastworld85 View Post
    but alot of people cannot justify 1100+ vat on a gearset + rebuild charges dude, thats why i say 99% of users they are perfectly fine.

    a go in your car sounds fun!

    Im not disagreeing they are important, quite the opposite, just that £ for £ and knowing most peoples budgets, the sports ratio boxes from standard do a fine job of enabling you to have fun and run respectable times.

    im personally not worried about having a really short first as i find the MA boxes dont like going into first when moving anyway, so having a slightly, so finding ill be using 2nd,3rd and 4th is something im quite happy with for just hooning about a track for shits and gigles
    I see what your saying. The box is more about the people that really want to go fast on the track. If its just about having fun a more standard car can work just as well. lol even the stock Saxo is a blast on the track if you throw it about a bit.
  58. #58
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    You ain't wrong Ryan.

    EDIT: OK, maybe you are! lol. ...Just kidding

    Ax, do you see any cheaper option for me than forking out all that for the Quaife gearset? The stats look great though, that 1st is perfect!
    Yup cheap would be have one of my old or not used boxs. You can even have the one out of my car if you like as i hope to get a new one soon.
  59. #59
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    I see what your saying. The box is more about the people that really want to go fast on the track. If its just about having fun a more standard car can work just as well. lol even the stock Saxo is a blast on the track if you throw it about a bit.


    yep had a laugh at silverstone in my std vtr.

    but imo the better of the standard boxes would be the 1.4xsi and the s1 rallye ones especially if on a higher rev limit, the vts boxs final drive makes it to long then imo and has alot of top speed.

    £ for £ that is
  60. #60
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    Yup cheap would be have one of my old or not used boxs. You can even have the one out of my car if you like as i hope to get a new one soon.
    Thanks for the offer! Would one of your used boxes be suitable for my setup?
  61. #61
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Itsafastworld85 View Post
    yep had a laugh at silverstone in my std vtr.

    but imo the better of the standard boxes would be the 1.4xsi and the s1 rallye ones especially if on a higher rev limit, the vts boxs final drive makes it to long then imo and has alot of top speed.

    £ for £ that is
    Yeah, I agree. @ 7800 I think the stock VTS / 106 GTI box is around the 150 mph mark! The S1 is topping out at around 130 @ 7800. It's also a bit easier keeping the revs in the power band. I just wish is wasn't so hard to find the right gear when really going for it.
  62. #62
    You can get the final drives new and there not silly money. But you can also get it out of other boxes, its not only the S1 rally with that final drive. Incidentally there are lower final drives out there as well. AX 1ltr 5 speed, AX 4X4 and BX 1.4 all have quite low final drives you may think about using. So then all you have to get is a sports cluster out of any of the sporty AX’s, Saxo’s, 106’s and so on.
  63. #63
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toad View Post
    Thanks for the offer! Would one of your used boxes be suitable for my setup?
    Whats the full spec of your car? The clusters would be fine its just if i have the right FD in there for you. I could always change it if i had the one you need though.
  64. #64
    Sorry, noddy time again. Are the clusters what determine the ratios / gear lengths? I don't really know what FD I "need." Sorry mate, all this gear box stuff is a learning curve for me.

    What spec do you need to know? Would a copy of a rolling road print out help? I'm using 708 camshafts.
  65. #65
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    You can get the final drives new and there not silly money. But you can also get it out of other boxes, its not only the S1 rally with that final drive. Incidentally there are lower final drives out there as well. AX 1ltr 5 speed, AX 4X4 and BX 1.4 all have quite low final drives you may think about using. So then all you have to get is a sports cluster out of any of the sporty AX’s, Saxo’s, 106’s and so on.
    ax 4x4 mmmmmm thats a shell id love to have to put a decent engine in.
    rarer than a 21year old model who is still a virgin though! were they not import only???

    thought mankee asked shit/pug for the prices and the crownwheel was £300+vat and the same for the pinion shaft.
  66. #66
    Draggin this up again:

    With all this in mind (gearbox before engine power) would the following idea be feasabel and worthwhile (given it's gonna cost a few k)
    I still run a standardish VTR engine with the exception of a manifold back BTB exhaust. I find the car a lot torquier with the standard manifold with the cat in, so for now, until my new Throttle bodied engine is built I was considering a quaife dog box (or close ratio gearset) Do you reckon this would make a stnadard engine quicker round a track? I've heard it can make a good difference even on a standard engine.
    Thanks
    PS: I currently have a VTS box with a quaife diff which i'd sell to fund the above plan.
  67. #67
    It would help a bit, mainly due to the useability of all the gears and also the higher final drive.

    But a close ratio gearbox can be a bad thing if it's not setup for your specific requirements. You may well find that when changing gear, it's not dropping the revs back enough... The closer ratio gearboxes are designed for engines which have small power bands. Yours will not be any smaller than standard, so you don't need closer ratios.

    Does that help mate? Oh, and are you going to give me a link for that quickshift of yours? :d
  68. #68
    personally i wouldnt go for a dog box, quiafe do perfectly good close ratio synchromesh sets for about 1100+ vat, fit this to your s' box with the current diff you own.