Rear lowering....

  1. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #1
    After years of saying! I will never lower my car i like the standard ride and not having to slow to much for speed bumps.... Its time to lower the car! Going to start of with the springs and lowering the torsion bar and then change the dampers to some nice Bilstein ones! Decided i want the front no more than 30mm so going for H & R springs! and i dont want the back to low! Not to 50mm anyway but i was told and have read then you can only drop the back in increments of 25mm! Is this true or can i lower is say 30-40mm? Sorry if im repeating a thread which i probably am but i couldnt find anything!

    REP given for the help
  2. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Jan 2006 Northampton Posts: 5957 ED30
    #2
    no lowering like how you are thinking is called clicks, this however is the WRONG way, and you should do it me measuring and replacing the torsion bar, so you can lower the back with increacments of 1mm !! if you going 30mm on the front then do the back 35-40mm in my opinion !

    by the way, 30mm isnt that low, and you should have not trouble with anything tbh, just like have 2 people in the back all the while, lol.
  3. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #3
    Replace the torsion bar? Where can i find a replacement and how much? x
  4. Frequent Poster Joined: Jul 2005 co durham United Kingdom (England) Posts: 892 1995 Toyota MR2 GT
    #4
    nonono not replace it...

    1. take it out

    2. move the hub to the desired height

    3. replace... (ie) put the torsion bar back in and the hub will stay at that height..

    very simplified version of event but you get the jist, get some one who knows how to do it to do it
  5. Established Member Joined: May 2007 Near Inverurie (kind of...) Posts: 2303 Twingo Silverstone
    #5
    Only way I know how to do it is the proper way. How do you do it the "click" way?

    Me and a mate lowered my car this weekend, it's awkward to say the least. Although he did most of the work like. Credit where it's due!
  6. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #6
    Going to do it myself just needed to know the right method!

    So its this...

    http://www.badgermotorsport.co.uk/lowering.htm

    Not this...

    http://www.suzukituning.com/PSA/Susp.../Lowering.htm#

    ?

    Thanks!

    BTW rep left for you both!
  7. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Jan 2006 Northampton Posts: 5957 ED30
    #7
    they are both the right way ! i dont actually know how to do it by the click/notches method to be honest.

    i think the suzuki one explains it a bit better though.
  8. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #8
    The suzuki one can only like the car by notches of about 25mm its says so i think thats the notching method! Ill do it the badger sport way when i get springs as i want 40mm on the rear not 50mm!
  9. Established Member Joined: Nov 2006 ower ere Posts: 1282 shitroen spaxo vts
    #9
    they are both the same way of doing it, all you need to do is once the torsion bar is removed lift your radius arm (the bit the brakes are fixed to) to your desired height and then push the torsion bar back in. you will probably need to turn the torsion bar to get it to line back up again. (if not you will damage the splines) then do the same on the other side.
    if you have any trouble let me know and i'll try and help.
  10. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #10
    No there not! The badgersport one you take out the torsion bars and the ARB the suzuki tuning you dont, you just take out the torsion bars! So how is that the same?
  11. Established Member Joined: Nov 2006 ower ere Posts: 1282 shitroen spaxo vts
    #11
    ok if you know so much do it your self and stop asking for advice
  12. Established Member Joined: Nov 2006 ower ere Posts: 1282 shitroen spaxo vts
    #12
    the suzuki one they remove the arb retaining bolts and twist it round to gain access to the o/s torsion bar, the badger one they remove it to gain access.
    either way they both remove the torsion bar from the arm and axle and not just knock the arm off the bar.
    but you obviusly knew that already and thats why you posted this?
  13. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Jan 2006 Northampton Posts: 5957 ED30
    #13
    totally agree ricky !

    qrty dont dig holes.
  14. Established Member Joined: May 2007 Near Inverurie (kind of...) Posts: 2303 Twingo Silverstone
    #14
    They are the same as has been said.

    Both take out the bars and reset the level then put them back in.

    Not once does it mention 25mm "notches" or set increments
  15. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #15
    I was asking which way is right as i dont know! They are different badger sport you take the ARB out you cant just rotate it as it has teeth and suzuki you just undo the ARB cover! They both take the torsion bars out! I just want to know which one is the right way!

    And it does mention notches!



    The torsion bar is out...and the left suspension arm has free movement! Person #2 hold the suspension arm on the desired height. (for 4cm lowring that will be 21cm!). The arm will be rotated about 2 theeth! Hit the torsion bar back... Be carefull not to kill the teeth of the torsion bar! Put the washer back, tighten the Torx T40 bolt, and fasten the damper again.
  16. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #16
    All i want to know is which way to do it im not argueeing and saying i know because im admitting i dont! Just please tell me which is the correct method as i can see differences! Thanks
  17. Established Member Joined: May 2007 Near Inverurie (kind of...) Posts: 2303 Twingo Silverstone
    #17
    Take off the axle. Makes it alot easier to gain access to the bars. Just to throw another option in there.

    Fair enough, I suppose teeth can be construed as notches though. But since the bars are out of the splines, it's really just to get them to match the splines.

    Theres a more in depth guide on the rallye register by Sandy, have a look at that as well.
  18. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #18
    Haha cheers youre just trying to confuse me now arent you lol Ill have a look now! thanks for the help not argueeing by the way!
  19. Established Member Joined: May 2007 Near Inverurie (kind of...) Posts: 2303 Twingo Silverstone
    #19
    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...ng+torsion+bar

    found it! 3rd link down is Sandy's guide. Although have a read of them all, lots of good info there.
    Steve from on here is making a guide with pics. His guides are good the ones I have seen.

    No worries mate, debating stuff is good as long as no ones a keyboard warrior!

    Good luck with the lowering though.
  20. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #20
    Cheers in going to go for the badgersport way and do the rear 35mm and then put the H&R -30mm springs in the front!
  21. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Oct 2007 North-east - Washington Posts: 7311 Clio 182, Fireblade GSX-R 750
    #21
    LMFAO i wish it was as easy 2 lower as all of u are saying, ive been on for weeks doing mine and ive had 2 buy a new ewar axle, bray the torsion bars out with a sledge hammer, yes a sledge hammer and it still took 3 hours... the front springs i dropped gearbox oil out coz of the driveshafts. and today ive gota swap the axles and hubs roundwhich mans bleeding the brakes etc etc etc.. go 2 a garage 2 get it lowered
  22. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3068
    #22
    Tbf not everyone has that problem! alot of the time depends on age and mileage and condition of the car! As newer cars are less likely to have seized parts if there kept in good nick! Decided not to lower anyway due to insurance but was going to have a bash! lol Cheers anyway REP left too!