Turbo's and stuff...

3rd February 2008, 22:32

Quick Question...

Found some stuff for sale as a bulk, and was wondering what Else i'd need to make my car run with it...

(I have a Mk1 90 Brake Silvertop VTR Lump atm)..

garret t2 turbo (recond)

saxo manifold

turbo downpipe

dump vavle,

mocal oil cooler

r5 gtt intercooler

boost control vavle

relevant pipes (oil cooling and water)

The Guy says that to complete the kit it

Quote:

will need silicon hoses from intake manifold to turbo bypassing intercooler about 100 pounds, a adaptor plate will be needed from manifold to turbo and a boost gauge thats all

Is this right?
What Else do i need to do, and how much roughly would I need to spend?
and What kinds of Gains would i be looking at?

3rd February 2008, 23:17

Sounds like it may be a load of junk to me to be honest. So basically you would need a full turbo kit.

4th February 2008, 08:40

Fair play, he wants too much for it anyway, Won't bother then lol
Cheers

4th February 2008, 09:38

ebay perchance?

4th February 2008, 12:28

Ha ha yeah was ebay...
Was expensive thought about offering him, but won't bother lol..

4th February 2008, 14:33

put the link up its probably one of the usual kits that keeps getting bought and sold on ebay and sounds like the OE modified wonky mounted manifold one

4th February 2008, 15:12

Yeah was an OE Manifold by the look of it..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/saxo-106-turbo...QQcmdZViewItem

4th February 2008, 15:18

dave mate that kit is the biggets shower of shit ever, of the kits that show up on ebay that is one of the worst.

For one you would need alot more than whats pictured:

new downpipe
Boost pipes
silicone bends for pipes
oil feed pipe for turbo
oil return boss welding on the sump
return pipe
sandwitch plate and hoses for oil cooler
some sort of mf2 sigcon for management
4 bigger injectors
new spark plugs
boost gauge
afr gauge
lower compression (cheap way thickest headgaket you can get)
headgasket set and headbolts.
new cambelt
new waterpump
2.5bar map sensor

that is the bulk of things that you would need mate pretty sure there are some more odds and ends tho

4th February 2008, 15:20

Hmmm Thanks for that, Rep'd

Won't bother wasting my cash then! lol...
Couldn't insure it turbo'd anyway lol..
Cheers

4th February 2008, 15:38

what car you got anyway mate? I can do you a basic cost break down based on what parts I used on my 1.1 turbo

4th February 2008, 15:41

I Have a furio, but a VTR Engine lying about, Insurance won't insure it with an engine change, so it'd be for the 1.6 - Mk1 '98 Silvertop 90BHP...
Cheers

4th February 2008, 15:52

christ thats easily done mate if your willing to find decent 2nd hand parts and can get stuff made up you can easily get everything done for 2k.

Lower compression (thickest MLS headgasket, headbolts £100)?
adapter for turbo and downpipe £60 inc get flange made for exhaust outlet on turbo and flange for adapter to bolt onto the turbo
boost pipes inc silicone bends £100
dump valve £30
dv t piece £20
vac hose £15
boost and afr gauges £100
boost map sensor £50
Intercooler £100 max
boss welded in sump for oil return £10?
oil feed pipe £10 to get made

dastek q+ chip fitted and mapped £650 OR RCD megasquirt setup £650

as I said few more odds and sods but if you get qualoty 2nd hand items your onto a winner. Depends how much your willing to spend and if you can do anything yourself

4th February 2008, 15:59

Thats not bad tbh, Willing to do the lot myself tbh..
Other option I have is Turbo the 1.4.. But it needs work as it is

Not something i'm going to be looking into in the short term thats for sure..
Maybe source VTS Parts, And get a VTS Together, and while I do that just do the Thicker headgasket etc as i go and turn it into a monster ready for when i can insure it

lol

Thanks for your help though!
Much appreciated!
David

4th February 2008, 19:14

I was thinking of trying this for a super cheap and easy to fit setup:

New Small frame oil only cooled Garret GT (possibly a professionally recon T series with warranty).
Actuator set quite low (would have to try and see what works best)
Standard exhaust to turbo adapter,
Down pipe,
Oil pressure switch T adapter,
Oil feed pipe,
Oil return pipe,
Modified sump,
High pressure FPR (possibly variable rate would have to try)
Solid boost pipe,
Flex boost pipe,
Air filter,
Possibly a small intercooler (though not really required at this level),

This kit would not give you great power but would be a very cheap way of getting your foot in to the boost door and should easily make a VTR as fast if not faster than a VTS and more importantly has great upgrade ability. You could add extra fuel drivers and lower engine compression or so on later with no real problem.

It would require a fair bit of development to get working correctly. In so this would not be a kit for a DIY tuner to try and setup. But once it worked you could sell the kit as a bolt on unit that would very easy for any one with basic spanner skills to fit.

This kit would work using the fact that the VTR uses a O2 sensor to control fuelling. The engine leans out when it runs rich. Now running lean is bad for boost. But on the flip side this allows you to run your car rich and then let the stock ECU lean it out to the correct level. Now with the normal fuel injector it flows as a percentage of the feed pressure. So upping the fuel pressure gives you more fuel. Now this is VERY limited in so many ways. The biggest problem is how slow the stock ECU reacts and so it would end up swinging from rich to lean more and more the more you rely on this fact. Wich is ok but cam make MOT harder and harder to pass. Lean is your real enemy though as this damages engines. Also the injectors only really work up to about 5 bar feed so that limits the maximum fuel flow.

The turbo you use would also be critical as you have no real control over things. So a really lagy or spiking or hot turbo would give you no end of problems.

Just a thought anyhow.

4th February 2008, 19:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by AXracing

I was thinking of trying this for a super cheap and easy to fit setup:

New Small frame oil only cooled Garret GT (possibly a professionally recon T series with warranty).
Actuator set quite low (would have to try and see what works best)
Standard exhaust to turbo adapter,
Down pipe,
Oil pressure switch T adapter,
Oil feed pipe,
Oil return pipe,
Modified sump,
High pressure FPR (possibly variable rate would have to try)
Solid boost pipe,
Flex boost pipe,
Air filter,
Possibly a small intercooler (though not really required at this level),

This kit would not give you great power but would be a very cheap way of getting your foot in to the boost door and should easily make a VTR as fast if not faster than a VTS and more importantly has great upgrade ability. You could add extra fuel drivers and lower engine compression or so on later with no real problem.

It would require a fair bit of development to get working correctly. In so this would not be a kit for a DIY tuner to try and setup. But once it worked you could sell the kit as a bolt on unit that would very easy for any one with basic spanner skills to fit.

This kit would work using the fact that the VTR uses a O2 sensor to control fuelling. The engine leans out when it runs rich. Now running lean is bad for boost. But on the flip side this allows you to run your car rich and then let the stock ECU lean it out to the correct level. Not with the normal fuel injector it flows as a percentage of the feed pressure. So upping the fuel pressure gives you more fuel. Now this is VERY limited in so many ways. The biggest problem is how slow the stock ECU reacts and so it would end up swinging from rich to lean more and more the more you rely on this fact. Rich is ok but cam make MOT harder and harder to pass. Lean is your real enemy though as this damages engines. Also the injectors only really work up to about 5 bar feed so that limits the maximum fuel flow.

The turbo you use would also be critical as you have no real control over things. So a really lagy or spiking or hot turbo would give you no end of problems.

Just a thought anyhow.

That wouldn't be a bad setup tbh, and that way things can be upgraded gradually to improve performance etc etc...
David

4th February 2008, 19:55

stay clear of angle standard manifold converted to fit a turn.
most are at an angle and starve the turbo of oil, so it wont last five mins, t2 turbo is a wee small imo. as for the intercooler a bit small as well.
its a very basic kit, and will see a small increase in bhp but i doubt it will last.

its also hard to weld cast iron, it needs to be heated up until mega hot to get the best weld possible, many peeps just use an arc stick thats for cast and dont heat it up, you will find they tend to crack where welded if not pre-heated before welding

you need all of the gear to run the fuel when the car is on bost, mf2 unit, sig con, injector and elbow.

i would also get an air fuel ratio meter to keep an eye on things are running, this just plumbs into the lambda sensor wires and shows you if its running lean or ritch

its well over prices as well.

gmc motorsport sell most of the parts needed as seperate items, the do a 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator (or is it 4.5bar lol)
boz

4th February 2008, 19:57

Yeah I would need a lot tbh..
Got my eye on some billys 10 miles away instead

lol!
I'm shocking with cash haha