what alloys?

  1. #1
    what does everyone think of these alloys? can anyone photoshop these alloys onto my car? i will be getting them in 16" size? go to the like below to see the alloys.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m&rd=1&item=79 72229317&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT


  2. #2
    there are the pics of the alloys and car, what u think?



  3. #3
    bit common mate, but if u like them go for it!
  4. #4
    any other reccomendations?
  5. #5
    anythink think either of these two would look good?



  6. #6


    Ones like these mate
  7. #7
    are they 16's?
  8. #8
    nah, 17s lowered 30mm but you can get them similar in 16s. Would go for 17s tho mate its worth the extra cash
  9. #9
    mattais if ya don't me asking what rear valance/splitter is that on your car?
  10. #10
    oo and sorry for the thread hi-jack there
  11. #11
    its the RGM one mate
  12. #12
    recommending alloys is a bit hard mate, depends on ur personal taste and the size of ur wad!

    theres literally thousands of gorgeous rims that suit saxos..
  13. #13
    well i want to spend bout £500, want somehting that suits the car well, dont really wanna b too common aswell.
  14. #14
    the twin 5 spoke alessio (dark chrome) are very very nice.
    But i agree with Mr Wideboy, its all down to personal taste, you decide which ones u like the most and just go 4 it!!! I would recommend 16s rather than 17s but go on ur own opinion.

  15. #15


    £679 for 17''s from potn, a bit over the price you wanted to send... never seen them on a saxo, but i could see them working.

    or


    Kei forge 10... 15''s are £453 with budget tyres from the same site, would look great with a big drop.

    really your choice. havent checked if you can get 4 studs.
  16. #16
    if i get 16's with 45 profiles will they b the same size as 17's with 40 profiles?
  17. #17
    no.

    17s with 40 profiles will rub will no arch work anyway. To avoide arch work you need to get 195/40/16s

    in case you are interseted on how it works:

    45 means the tyre is 45% of the sidewall height in relation to the width of the tyre.

    tyres for 17s for a saxo are 205mm wide, so 40% of 205 is 82mm (205/40/17)

    tyres for 16s for a saxo are 195mm wide, so 45% of 195 = 87.75mm (195/45/16)

    17s are 4250mm heigh, plus 82mm = 4332 in total.
    16s are 4000mm heigh, plus the 87.75 = 4087.75 in total.

    its a long way of looking, but as you can see 17s are bigger.

    If that doesnt explain it nothing will lol
  18. #18
    for mattais
  19. #19
    Mattis, tell me exactly how much work am i gonna need to put 16's on my saxo lowered 40mm and 17's on my saxo lowered 40mm.

    i though i could jus about get away with 17's with x-tremely low pro tyres. is it possible or not. jus dont want no rubbing.
  20. #20
    huggy...read the other million+ posts about alloys and rubbing
  21. #21

    40/16s -
    If its a mk2 saxo, all you'll prob need to do is bend the power steering pipe out of the way at the back. Will probably rub on the arches with a full car anyway, and prob rub a little on full lock.

    I would advise getting 17s anyway (the smallest id go), and getting a garage to do the work for you. I had my arches rolled, the liners took out and everything moved/bent out of the way and i can have 5 people in the car with no rubbing whatsoever, and only a bit on full lock.

    Hope this helps

  22. #22
    i'd go for 16's mate and a 50-60mm drop for best compromise between looks and handling. it's possible to have no rubbing at all,even on 17's, and it's also easy to do any archwork yourself,without paying someone to do it. oh, and you can't roll saxo arches,coz they're plastic,you have to cut away the arch under the vtr/s arch extension, then re-stick the extension back on using sikaflex or tiger seal.
  23. #23
    dan's saxo on 16's

    there ya go mate, -60mm on 16's, no arch mods.
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by seanvtr81
    i'd go for 16's mate and a 50-60mm drop for best compromise between looks and handling. it's possible to have no rubbing at all,even on 17's, and it's also easy to do any archwork yourself,without paying someone to do it. oh, and you can't roll saxo arches,coz they're plastic,you have to cut away the arch under the vtr/s arch extension, then re-stick the extension back on using sikaflex or tiger seal.
    yeah you are right, i meant cut the arches, not rolled.

    No offence but i wouldnt do this yourself unless you are sure you can manage it. Getting it done at a garage may cost more, but if they mess it up then they have to fix it. If you mess it up, it comes out of your pocket, and you may end paying out to fix it and not getting the rub free ride you couldve spent the money on

    Also, some garages may not take your car in for something like lowering if you have already been tampering down there yourself, as they wont take the risk of being held responsible if something goes wrong.
  25. #25
    Also, 16s on a 50 or 60mm drop isnt a good balance of looks and handling unless you buy a full suspension kit with both springs and dampers. Having just springs will make your car handle awfully.

    Having 17s would make your car accelerate that little bit slower, but should in theory give it a mph or two more at top end.
  26. #26
    as sean pointed out i have 16's with 40 prof's and no rubbing also i can have 5 ppl on the car and they still dont rub!

    which is why im thinkin bout lowering the rear a little more
  27. #27
    as i've said before dan, slam the cnut

    having "a few mph more top end" only matters if you drive everywhere at 130mph
    and on dan's (danvtr_9) saxo, only the arch liners needed removing for a 60mm drop on 16's, i would imagine that's pretty easy to do yourself
    also, i very much doubt if a garage would refuse to touch suspension because of bodywork mods, diy or otherwise.
    finally, before i had avo adjustables fitted, i had 'only' uprated -60mm springs on for 2 years, and the handling was far from 'awful'. depends on the state of the shocks.
  28. #28
    yeah my handling is not bad to be honest! i dont think i needed to remove the liners as one is still on the back!

    i have the car booked in to have the exhaust lined up on the 27th may but the place im gettin it done said they'd to the rear for me
  29. #29
    nice one.what suspension you running dan, just 60mm springs, or you got some uprated shocks as well?
  30. #30
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by seanvtr81
    as i've said before dan, slam the cnut

    having "a few mph more top end" only matters if you drive everywhere at 130mph
    and on dan's (danvtr_9) saxo, only the arch liners needed removing for a 60mm drop on 16's, i would imagine that's pretty easy to do yourself
    also, i very much doubt if a garage would refuse to touch suspension because of bodywork mods, diy or otherwise.
    finally, before i had avo adjustables fitted, i had 'only' uprated -60mm springs on for 2 years, and the handling was far from 'awful'. depends on the state of the shocks.
    lol i wasnt using the faster top end as a reason to go for 17s, just pointing it out

    Taking out the liners would be easy yeah, if thats all youd need to do then that'd save yourself a bit. Unless you know the garage, in my experience they wont touch something thats been "home made", for legal reasons. Dont get me wrong, depends what it is. Classic one is messing with the torsion bar yourself, them changing the dampers or something then the whole lot falling apart and you blaming them... lol mates can be so thick sometimes.

    Anything over 45mm lower than standard springs will significantly reduce the life of your dampers and make handling bad. If you think about it the dampers have lost nearly 2 inches of travel, even if they are in good condition itd handle differently. i dont know about you but my dampers were in good condition when i had 60mm on, and i noticed the difference. Youd especially notice it on a mk1 with older shocks. Guess its a bit of luck really.

    Avo adjustables? nice, how much did they set you back? (just out of interest is that adjustable ride height or adjustable dampers?) was looking at adjustables, would you say they're worth the cash?
  31. #31
    when i got the car it had 1year old standard shocks, and 60mm springs, and it handled well and passed 2 mot's and still did even after 2 years of me driving got the AVO's bout 3weeks ago after my back axle collapsed, just decided to get all 4 changed. fronts were £100 each, rears were £50 each. well worth it. turn-in has improved, as has steering 'feel' when driving quickly. ride quality hasn't changed that much, only now i don't have to tense my whole body when going over tiny bumps
    only adjustable dampers, had the AVO coilovers (adjustable ride height) on my old fiesta turbo and they were the dogs danglies, but don't think avo make them for my wee sax
  32. #32
    face it huggy, 17s will RUB. Save up and get the arches done, there's no miracle thing you can do to make 17"s fit without scrubbage...