Power

  1. #1
    Hi all,
    New to the site and thinking about getting a saxo.
    I have/had a Starlet GT, the bottom end has recently gone and I hae lost all patience and don't want to even start rebuilding it so am getting rid.
    I want something nice like a saxo but was wondering what power can be got out of them? I'm looking at a VTR I think although I know the VTS faster.
    What power mods are available? How much can I increase the bhp by and with what mods?
    Thanks in advance, J
  2. #2
    The VTR is either 90bhp or 98bhp, depending on what phase you get.....the later ones are 98.

    You can increase this by a fair bit, depends how much you wanna spend on it......turbo, t/b, or just race exhaust, like I say, depends how much you've got to spend.
  3. #3
    ive heard of n/a powered vts up to 220ish
    turbo there are 300 upwards (saxo daffy is worth a look at 321)

    but it dpends on what you want and how deep your pockets are
  4. #4
    Which engines can withstand a turbo? Do I need to forge?
    How much are turbo kits? Where can they be purchased?
    Thanks again
  5. #5
    they all will require forgies tbh if your goin turbo
    (its just a better idea in the long run)
    turbo kits range in price depending on spec

    i think c i tuning sell them
  6. #6
    if it's power you're looking for then I wouldn't bother with a vtr, i'd go straight for the vts. Yes good power can be had from the vtr, but vtr boosted power can be made with a vts n/a. vts on itb's can make anything from 170@fly to 190@fly depending on specs, boosted can be anywhere from 200@wheels right up to 300@wheels. Weak point on high-powered saxos (and more importantly high-torque saxos) is the gearbox.
    Have a search around the engine section and also have a read of the section FAQ'a for an idea of the most common modifications that people use.
  7. #7
    If you do a bit of research you should be able to buy one with some desirable mods as a base.

    Example if you can get one with decent induction and full exhaust then all you need is some sport cams and a remap and your up 150bhp cheap as chips.
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mystic View Post
    If you do a bit of research you should be able to buy one with some desirable mods as a base.

    Example if you can get one with decent induction and full exhaust then all you need is some sport cams and a remap and your up 150bhp cheap as chips.
    bout 1750ish (prolly less actually) i spent on mine ran 152.5 at fly
  9. #9
    Can the stock ECU's be mapped or do they need to be replaced/piggybacked?
    If a VTR had these mods what bhp would it produce?
  10. #10
    you can remap the stock ecu for the usual n/a mods (cams etc), for itb's you'd need standalone, for boost standalone is best but you can run stock ecu with mf2 to control extra injectors. Depends on your budget really.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by jamieparr View Post
    Can the stock ECU's be mapped or do they need to be replaced/piggybacked?
    If a VTR had these mods what bhp would it produce?

    All of the above. A stock remap will do if your just uprating the cams/induction/exhaust etc to see 150bhp ish.

    If you plan on taking it further then you should look into standalone management, KMS, Omex etc. Depending where you are in the country theirs GMC in the north and for the south RCD Performance have almost completed their development of a version of the megasquirt ECU specifically tailored to saxos.

    Also this should have been mentioned too. The mk2 VTS ranges from 2000 to 2003 but the 2001-2003 range of them are about to get humped through road tax (it already costs them £210, compared to £180 for the 200 and earlier models, next year it goes up to £300 though) another reason for a 2000 model is that the wiring changed in 2001 making it much more awkward to fit standalone engine management systems.

    Also the newer ones have automatic brake biasing which i think means if they are lowered theirs no way of adjusting the brake bias back towards the front again, meaning they will always overbrake at the rear (because the ecu thinks your heavily loaded up in the boot, rather than just lowered) Maybe someone can confirm that i dunno, i've never acctually heard it mentioned before but in my mind, thats what happens