i know loads of people put up threads on the torsion bar but me and my mate who is a mechanic are lowering the car and just want to know if theres common things that go wrong and is it easy to do. any help would be gratful
torsion bar lowering
-
#1
-
#2The torx bolts in the end of each torsion bar can sometimes be a pain, try and get a titanium bit, think its a T30 or T40 cant exactly remember. Your probably gunna need about 2 cans of lubricant and alot of patience.
The offset washers can also be a swine to move as they sometimes build up with rust and stick so again lots of lube required.
The bars my be seized or not, a decent slide hammer and a decent lump hammer might be handy too. -
#3nice one mate what about getting the ride level equal both sides how do u do that
-
#4when the torsion bars are both removed and the shocks are off, lift the trailing arm and rest the brake caliper on a bottle jack. Then you can raise and lower the trailing arm and use a tape measure to test the height.
When the desired height is set on the jack, slide the torsion bar in. If it doesn't go in smoothly, slide out and rotate 1-tooth. repeat until it slides in with minimum resistence - BY HAND. It *WILL* be possible to find an orientation where it works.
Then, lower the jack and re-measure the height from the body once the sag has occured.
Then move onto the other side, and repeat, making sure the height is the same AFTER they are both sagged. Then refit the shocks.
REMEMBER: only tighten the shock bolts when the car is on it's wheels and settled.
Andy -
#5ok think i got that cheers for help guys
-
#6A new packet of torx screw are always a good thing...i messed all mine up and had to but new ones
-
#7dont put torx bits back in put proper bolts in. so if ever need to adjust you then use a socket
-
#8thanks for the instructions, just waiting to order my front springs then il lower the front and back together.