Things associated with buying cams...

  1. #1
    Hey there,

    Getting a set of Cams for the VTR next month...

    What do i need to make them run the best they can.

    Obviously the cams, vernier pulley + remap

    Now can someone explain to me what "solid lifters" are or something like that and is there some spring things which need uprating?
  2. #2
    valve springs?

    obuisoly (sp) a new cambelt.

    re-map aswell.

    dont know much about the lifters
  3. #3
    Don't need to change valve springs unless they aint in good shape.

    When I planned on changing the cam on my VTR, I was going to use an ax gti head and replace the valve oil stem seals, head gasket, water pump, timing belt and tensioner and cam seal. No point in taking things apart and not making sure they're all good. Although in the end I sold the car so have a pretty much new head with most of those parts lying about lol

    Then you need a remap, standalone or piggy back really once you have put it all together again.

    And Vtr is cam really not cams.
  4. #4
    I know its only the single cam mate, just wrotes cams ( don't know why)

    But surely i won't need standalone just yet, i could put the cams on, vernier pulley + new cam belt or whatever get it remapped and it should be ok. Not fussed if the idle is a little dodgey, don't even think they make to lairy a cam for 8v do they?
  5. #5
    U will need:

    The cam!
    Vernier pulley!
    Headgasket Kit!

    Dont really need solid lifters unless your buying a race cam!
  6. #6
    you can get a very lairy camshaft for the 8v if you so wish
    What you need is fully dependant on the camshaft choice but as you most likely will be wanting a road spec camshaft then most likely you can run standard springs, followers etc.
    A vernier pulley makes setup a damn sight easier though it can be done without. They are not too expensive for 8v's either as you only need one.
    Get a new cambelt without question.

    Race cams run at very high rpm and springs cannot cope with the camshaft shape (you get valve bounce) so you need a slightly different setup in the head. The shocking thing is the extra parts are usually more expensive than the camshaft(s)
  7. #7
    id get a high lft cam
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SaXo_vtr123 View Post
    id get a high lft cam
    that doesnt really narrow it down...
  9. #9
    is a 285 a race cam?
  10. #10
    Quote:
    What do i need to make them run the best they can.
    the search button works well
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dasher_VTR View Post
    is a 285 a race cam?
    a piper 285 isnt
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SaXo_vtr123 View Post
    id get a high lft cam
    lol, so which cam out of every aftermaket cam do you suggest?
  13. #13
    just checkin i didn't think it was
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by williamsvts View Post
    lol, so which cam out of every aftermaket cam do you suggest?
    piper 285 with remap and vernier pulley gave me 122bhp.
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dasher_VTR View Post
    just checkin i didn't think it was
    a piper 285 is around 260 degrees.

    a real 285 is getting there but 300 + is
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by The_Notorious_C_A_T View Post
    Don't need to change valve springs unless they aint in good shape.

    When I planned on changing the cam on my VTR, I was going to use an ax gti head and replace the valve oil stem seals, head gasket, water pump, timing belt and tensioner and cam seal. No point in taking things apart and not making sure they're all good. Although in the end I sold the car so have a pretty much new head with most of those parts lying about lol

    Then you need a remap, standalone or piggy back really once you have put it all together again.

    And Vtr is cam really not cams.

    he could be talkin about the lobes the would make it cams lol. just say camshaft. safes confusion lolerness.