Saxo Torsion Bar... Same principal as a Renault 5 turbo?

  1. Infrequent Poster Joined: Oct 2008 Essex Posts: 130 VTR
    #1
    As above, im going to lower the saxo, and ive never done a torsion Bar before, my clio was already lowered, and no audis have them so havnt encountered them at work.. but..

    i have a mate with a 5 GT Turbo, and he lowered that and if its the same principal he said hed do it for me, any one know if theres any difference?


    thaaaanks
  2. Established Member Joined: Jul 2008 Barnsley, South Yorkshire Posts: 1578 MG ZR...
    #2
    Shows how to mate:

    http://www.suzukituning.com/PSA/Suspension/Lowering.htm
  3. Infrequent Poster Joined: Oct 2008 Essex Posts: 130 VTR
    #3
    Yeah had a look at that, but to me it doesnt make all that much sense, ill read it a bit harder, but would be a bargain if i could get my mate to do it for me while im doing the suspension on the front.
  4. Frequent Poster Joined: Jul 2007 Newark Posts: 540 Saxo vtr 16V CRX VT 91' Civic EK
    #4
    similar however the saxo is a pain to do
  5. Infrequent Poster Joined: Oct 2008 Essex Posts: 130 VTR
    #5
    lol in what sense.... whats different to the 5?
  6. Frequent Poster Joined: Jul 2007 Newark Posts: 540 Saxo vtr 16V CRX VT 91' Civic EK
    #6
    meaning where the bars are situated as a pose to the r5 its best to drop the beam!
  7. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: May 2007 Posts: 4857
    #7
    The saxo bars are offset and outside the tube. You simply unscrew the two bolts in the end and pull out the two washers. Then pull the bars out and move the bear swing arm lower by the desired amount. Then just put bars, washers and bolts back in. Done. Not as easy as 5 but not a world away.
  8. Infrequent Poster Joined: Oct 2008 Essex Posts: 130 VTR
    #8
    ax racing... thats the best way its been explained to me so far.

    amazing!


    thank you.
  9. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: May 2007 Posts: 4857
    #9
    No problem, just wish i could spell lol. I should have probably add the bars can be stubborn little things so your best to have a slide hammer with a M8 head on to pull them out.
  10. Infrequent Poster Joined: Oct 2008 Essex Posts: 130 VTR
    #10
    just a case of

    Unbolt

    remove washers

    pull bars out, move bar to desired height

    bars back in

    washers in

    bolts back in

    done.


    If ive taken the jist of that correctly lol
  11. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: May 2007 Posts: 4857
    #11
    Yup

    Measured hub hight (with wheels off from hub to pick any place on the arch best to mark it)

    Unbolt (4 bolts 2 per bar, one at each end. There is a tear drop shape bit of steel on any model with a rear ARB you have to unto the 2 bolt on this one each side of car and spin it round to get to them)

    Remove Washers (4 again just like bolts, though there offset and sit in a grove so you just contour them and they come out easily)

    Pull bars out (use a slide hammer with M8 bolt in the end or you can use some sort of puller if you like)

    Set new hight (measure as you did as start and take of desired amount, can help to chock it at new hight with some wood or something or just get a friend to hold)

    Bars back in (can just hit or use slide hammer)

    Washers in (easy)

    Bolts back in (again easy. Screw ARB plates back on if need be)

    Its all very self explainable though when you start doing it you will see what you have to do. Hardest bit is actually pulling the bards out if its all rusty. If this is so your best soaking it over a few days with plus gas or something like that.
  12. Newbie Joined: Oct 2008 teignmouth, devon Posts: 10 saxo furio
    #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AshC View Post

    i'd be weary of this link cos even though its extremely useful it doesn't tell you EVERYTHING, so there are some places you have to fill in the gaps.
    I've been using tit to lower my saxo and i've had some problems...

    i still dont fully understand if both ends of the torsion bar must be free in order to remove it fully. i assume this must be the cased but i scuffed some knuckles trying to find out.

    anybody know if both ends of the torsion bar must be released or does the far and more concealed end have to stay in place???
  13. Newbie Joined: Oct 2008 teignmouth, devon Posts: 10 saxo furio
    #13
    what a noob! i suppose i should have read AX racing's post before asking. THANKS!!!!
  14. Newbie Joined: Oct 2008 teignmouth, devon Posts: 10 saxo furio
    #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    Yup

    Measured hub hight (with wheels off from hub to pick any place on the arch best to mark it)

    Unbolt (4 bolts 2 per bar, one at each end. There is a tear drop shape bit of steel on any model with a rear ARB you have to unto the 2 bolt on this one each side of car and spin it round to get to them)

    Remove Washers (4 again just like bolts, though there offset and sit in a grove so you just contour them and they come out easily)

    Pull bars out (use a slide hammer with M8 bolt in the end or you can use some sort of puller if you like)

    Set new hight (measure as you did as start and take of desired amount, can help to chock it at new hight with some wood or something or just get a friend to hold)

    Bars back in (can just hit or use slide hammer)

    Washers in (easy)

    Bolts back in (again easy. Screw ARB plates back on if need be)

    Its all very self explainable though when you start doing it you will see what you have to do. Hardest bit is actually pulling the bards out if its all rusty. If this is so your best soaking it over a few days with plus gas or something like that.

    AX RACING you are my new hero. thanks mate! i just needed to hear somebody say 'undo BOTH ends' ha! gonna be low!!