News : Very common problem and i think iv found the anser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  1. #1
    i started a thred on here a few days ago about a problem on my vtr...
    every time i reached 4000rpm it was bogging down, i had major power loss was also idling at any where betwen 500rpm and 2500rpm

    a few people said it was the air filter (not breathing right) so i sorted that, a few people said differant things but nout worked...

    i also had a look around on here n it seems to be a very common problem as theres a massive thred on it...

    so, last nite i decided to reset my ecu, i reconnected it all up this morning and hey presto....

    its running perfect idling at right rpm and its runnig better than ever!!!!!
    it seems to be soooooo much faster as well!!!!!
    hope this works for ne1 else with this problem!

    tom
  2. #2
    thats all i done tbh, but my car wasnt idling properly, i disconnected the battery, a while later my car idled like it should
  3. #3
    How do you reset the ecu out of interest?
  4. #4
    i think you disconnect the battery for 2 hours.
  5. #5
    sounds like a plan
  6. #6
    i would like to know how to aswell. and what does it do when it resets? and how would it have changed in anyway?
  7. #7
    I reset the ECU on mine when the idle gets very lumpy, with the cams the ECU seems to calm down after it.
  8. #8
    Best to disconect it overnight, as the electrical system has alot of risistors and capacitors and a hour or 2 may not be enough, escpecially the airbag system. So id reccomend disconnect both over night, in the morning clean terminals up, re-connect both leads and grease them up, fire it up and let it idle for a few mins then take it for a drive. It may run lumpy but it has to re-learn all its parameters again and your driving style which normally takes one complete drive cycle.
  9. #9
    if only this would work with my rallye inlet
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by shaunyboy View Post
    Best to disconect it overnight, as the electrical system has alot of risistors and capacitors and a hour or 2 may not be enough, escpecially the airbag system. So id reccomend disconnect both over night, in the morning clean terminals up, re-connect both leads and grease them up, fire it up and let it idle for a few mins then take it for a drive. It may run lumpy but it has to re-learn all its parameters again and your driving style which normally takes one complete drive cycle.
    thanks for explaining that mate lol
    i left mine over night and this morning it worked like a dream!

    tom
  11. #11
    no problem, its all about the capacitors in the electrical system. Best way to explain is the airbag system, they have capacitors wich hold charge (electric) without the battery, reason being if yo have a front end smash, its going to be the battery that gets it, so to detonate the airbag, it uses the charge in the capacitors. The engine management relys on capacitors to store info, but when the capacitors loose charge, the info go's so the ecu is like it was when it was made, it then has to re-learn all its parameters from the various sensors.
  12. #12
    just done mine, seems to have improved the startup, used to turn the key, it would hit idle then bog down to 500rpm then back too idle again, doesnt do that anymore, time will tell if it solves the other issues ive been having.
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by shaunyboy View Post
    alot of risistors and capacitors
    Just stick a screw driver across the capacitor and get ready for rapid discharging
  14. #14
    I've just disconnected my battery now for the night. So hopefully **fingers crossed** it will cure my heap of shit
  15. #15
    interesting stuff am guessing that its the same for both single plug and 3 plug ecu's and for any litre from 1.0 to 1.6 16v? or just for the vtr?
  16. #16
    changed the lambda sensor on my old vtr and a new air box cos it was full of shit and not breathin and it fixed it straight away and never came back. on my current vts the race cams will cause it to stall on idle occasionally wen its freezin and sounds like a bag of nails but once its warm its like a new car. in most cases its the lamba sensors that needs changin.
  17. #17
    resetting the ecu will only cure the problem of poor idling untill the problem starts again, best bet is to try and figure out why it idling wrong
  18. #18
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by moony_vtr View Post
    resetting the ecu will only cure the problem of poor idling untill the problem starts again, best bet is to try and figure out why it idling wrong
    in my case the car was bogging down at 4000rpm an had major power loss, but now all is fine and is runnig like a dream and all i did was re-set the ECU...
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by operation-saxo View Post
    interesting stuff am guessing that its the same for both single plug and 3 plug ecu's and for any litre from 1.0 to 1.6 16v? or just for the vtr?
    yeh from what i can gather its the same for all
  20. #20
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by moony_vtr View Post
    resetting the ecu will only cure the problem of poor idling untill the problem starts again, best bet is to try and figure out why it idling wrong
    Yes.. after resetting if it comes back, you then know its a fault.
  21. #21
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by shaunyboy View Post
    Yes.. after resetting if it comes back, you then know its a fault.
    or just reset it every time it comes bk and forget bout the problem
    it would work out alot cheaper haha