2003 VTS and ive got 3k worth to spend on the engine (dont worry bout susepnsion/brakes) Its totally standard. Any recomendations (eg exhaust system, cams,induction etc.)
Most BHP from a VTS with £3000 of Mods?
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#1
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#2depends how handy with the spanners you are, and if you want boost.
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#3well you need to sort the chassis and braking out first really. Do it the proper way, just do a breathing mods first then the chassis and braking then the power stuff. So you need to make braking into that budget too.
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#4good induction headwork cams standalone management manifold and a system is what i would do and your 3grand will have very little change tbh
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#5I got vented/grooved/drilled discs allround with braided hoses pads and new springs/lowered and shocks. I just want to know the best products to buy for maximun gains in BHP
Thanks -
#6all of what you said, plus port and polished throttle body, 4-2-1 manifold, de-cat/sports cat, predator ecu and remap and throttle bodies for 3k
would need good stoppers tho and good suspension because that powers great in a straight line but when it gets bendy you stick to the road and still be going fast
james -
#7Whats standalone management? and im rubbish wit spanners will carry all the work out by a pro
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#9Can you do all the work yourself? If not you'll probally get 1k worth of performance parts and 2k laybour.
If you can do the work yourself.. Then do some research on modding the 16v. Depending on what you want from the engine... N/A? Turbo?
For turbo you'll need low comp pistons etc, Or throttlebodys for N/A standalone managment etc.
Personally because i cant do work myself, id buy a highly spec'd N/A engine. I'd Never own a turbo'd converted car again, 3 1k rebuilds in 2 months.. Sold it, 200 miles bang. Not good for thrashing compared to n/a. -
#11Defo not turbo/supercharger or TB's just too expensive.
Am i better off getting a ECU remap or a brand new ECU? -
#12100 shot of Naaaaaawwwwwwws
would have some change left over too
I cannot vouch for the longevity of your engine when going this route :-) -
#13
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#14yh was looking at the 150-160bhp mark thats plenty for me in a car weighing 900kg lol
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#15try 30-40 more and less weight then it starts getting fun
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#16well year was thinking about doing the intire body made from 100% carbon fibre but was a bit pricey. mind you would drop bout 200kg off the kerbweight along wit striped interior and carbon buckets lol
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#17the entire body from carbon lol... that will cost about 10k+ considering you would need most of it moulded especiallyQuote:well year was thinking about doing the intire body made from 100% carbon fibre but was a bit pricey. mind you would drop bout 200kg off the kerbweight along wit striped interior and carbon buckets lol
you dont need carbon everything to reduce the weight a good amount on saxos. -
#18its not 10k but for example the bonnet was 700 and the roof and boot was 1500 lol
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#19It would be around the 10k mark, as stated bumpers, skirts etc would need moulding and that would be the expensive part!
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#25why you'd want to replace plastic parts with carbon fibre is beyond me anyway.
CF is stiff and light, which makes it mint for tensile, structual loading. but otherwise plastic is a better option if it's not structural. -
#26Spending 3k on a saxo during a recession is abit crazy to me.
Heres a bunch of NA mods that will increase your performance. Research each one and do a little feasability study to find out what you can and can't afford and work out best bang for buck.
Induction kit
Exhaust System (Decat)
4-1 or 4-2-1 Manifold
Cams (do your research before buying some)
Throttlebodies (also do your research, can be very expensive)
ECU - Go standalone if your getting TB's if not just get your ECU remapped once you have all your mods fitted
Headwork - Can be very expensive and not show alot of gains
Best cheapest way to make the car faster is weight reduction. Don't go buying new carbon parts before you've got rid of all the 'free' weight in the car that you dont need. Sound deadening, rear seats etc.
