Important! : What Height Do People Measure For 40mm Lowering With 21mm Torsion Bars *Done Now But Have A Few Questions*

  1. #1
    Chuffed I have managed to get the car apart under 30 minutes, totally sweating, trying to beat the rain

    I lowered the car the other week another 10mm but still sat higher than the front.

    Before i took the bars out today, it measure 40 from centre of arch to teh centre of the rear hub.

    Was going to lower it another 10mm and take it to 39mm?

    What height do people usually measure for 40mm lowering?
  2. #2
    just spoke to Chris Paul At manic motors, He measures from the centre of the arch to the middle of the rear hub 39.5

    So al probably do it to 38.5 or 39.

    Dam gmc 40mm springs are simply not 40mm on the front
  3. #3
    If you're fitting 21mm bars they don't compress anywhere near as much, so your setting point will change. Just measure it the same distance as the front when sitting on the ground, that's how it should be, with optional 10mm rear lift.
  4. #4
    When i first read the thread i thought... "Tape measure"

    But thats stupid so i wont post it

    [/spam]
  5. #5
    hi does any one know how to ajust the torsion bars or where to get them done in the lincolnshier area or any1 on here do them and ill pay
  6. #6
    steve - keep your measurements either mm or cm, gets confusing mixing both. standard is 400mm from arch to hub lip, so subtract 40mm from that, = 360mm. but as alex saxys the thicker bars wont compress as much so take some extra off, if your not sure, put it back together without the bolts and washers in and see how it sits. then its quicker to readjust.
  7. #7
    read that too late.

    i measure 360mm (basically 390mm from centre of the hub) from the top of the lip to the arch.
    Sits higher than before hahahaha

    Another weird thing.... is that am sure with standard bars in you couldnt really push the arm up.
    You can fairly easy with these, not loads but a good few inches

    Does handle a shit lot better though.

    Feels lower in the car, but from out side is actually sitting higher
  8. #8
    the word fail semi springs to mind.... least i did it by my self

    The only reason i can think i havnt notcied you can push the arm up before, is when i normally have put the rear arb in, the securing holes dont line up, so i have had to jack an arm up to get the end plate and arm hole to line up.

    Today they were both exact didnt need to push an arm up or down.

    So normally the arb would be twisted thus making it hard for me to push an arm up?

    Thats the only reason i can think of?
  9. #9
    Without dampers fitted it is relatively easy to pull the arm up a few inches.

    Have you measured the bars with a vernier?

    I always put the bars in place roughly, drop the car down, measure and readjust if necessary. Usually get it spot on though. I use a different measurement to you.

    Should never need to jack an arm up to get teh ARB bolts in either...
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexR View Post
    Without dampers fitted it is relatively easy to pull the arm up a few inches.

    Have you measured the bars with a vernier?

    I always put the bars in place roughly, drop the car down, measure and readjust if necessary. Usually get it spot on though. I use a different measurement to you.

    Should never need to jack an arm up to get teh ARB bolts in either...
    showed as 20.7mm on my gauge, standard showed as 18.7mm so my gauge must be faulty.

    24mm arb showed as 23.6mm iirc lol

    Can push them up but struggle with teh group n rears on.

    Can only think its because of the way i have put arbs in,in the past. And the load on that has stopped me from moving the arm up and down.


    Handles spot on though, just looks gash and nose heavy lol

    Way around this? Buy some 200lb springs which dont lower the front asmuch haha

    Think 200lb the best to match the 21mm bars or go for 180lb?
  11. #11
    I would go 200 again no trouble. Sharper turn in, more stability & less roll. It's a no brainer.

    1st dibs on the bars when you sell
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexR View Post
    I would go 200 again no trouble. Sharper turn in, more stability & less roll. It's a no brainer.

    1st dibs on the bars when you sell
    al be keeping them ha, but 1st dibs is yours.
  13. #13
    100% y0

    I gave my 21mm bars to a guy for £50 plus some help with something, on the basis that he sold them back to me when he was done. Then he sold them to that lewis cunt for loadsamoney.

    I need 21z
  14. #14
    steve - you mustnt have your arb on the splines properly if the bolts holes arent lining up. take it out and move it round a spline till they do.

    alex - where do you measure from? i take the measurements from lip on hub to arch trim. standard is 400mm that way.
  15. #15
    For setting height i measure boot floor to rear of stub pin, it's more consistent between cars. The arches can vary quite a bit.

    For checking height front vs rear i measure arch centre to top of rim, this is just a rough check to make sure the front and rear are the same or have the required difference.
  16. #16
    i just normally go from arch, drop the car and give it a tweek if its out. normaly fine though. got it down to an hour now.
  17. #17
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by williamsvts View Post
    steve - you mustnt have your arb on the splines properly if the bolts holes arent lining up. take it out and move it round a spline till they do.

    alex - where do you measure from? i take the measurements from lip on hub to arch trim. standard is 400mm that way.
    they line up fine, and in the past it was you who told me to jack the arm slightly for them to match.

    When you did tommas car not long ago his didnt line up if you remember
  18. #18
    oh and the right side of the car is higher on flat ground took wheels off and measure its exactly the same.

    If i hadnt went on the lash last night i would re do it today ha