drive shaft

26th August 2009, 00:49

any ideas on how its done or what tools i need im going to try it myself

26th August 2009, 01:04

Easy job, jack car up take off wheel, remove brake disc, drive shaft basically pops out and new one pops in. Takes about 2 hours if your good with your hands

26th August 2009, 01:08

Easy job mate, as long as youve got decent tools. Iv got some shafts for sale too

26th August 2009, 01:11

you say you have drive shafts for sale??

26th August 2009, 01:12

Jack, axle stands, 32mm socket, 17mm spanner's, depends on the side your doing and if you have an itermediate bearing (if so 11mm spanner), hammer, ball joint splitter, square section key, flat blade screwdriver. Then you will need, new drive shalf seal, gearbox oil, new driveshaft end nut and the driveshaft.

Jack the front of the car up supporting it on the axle stands, remove the wheel. Drain the gearbbox oil (Square section key). Remove the driveshaft end nut(32mm socket), might need someone to apply the brake pedal. Then undo the pinch bolt(17mm spanners) for the ball joint and then split the ball joint(balljoint splitter and hammer) from the wishbone and suspension strut. If your working on the drivers side shalf and it has an intermediate bearing undo the nuts for this(11mm spanners). Then you can move the suspension strut so that you can disenguage the driveshaft from it, then pull the driveshaft out from the differential/gearbox. You can then remove the driveshaft oil seal (flat blade screwdriver). When fitting the new oil seal use a socket and hammer to drive it in, make sure that the socket fits the outer edge of the seal so not to damage it. Think that everything, my advive would be to get a hynes manual. And sometimes not all the sizes of the tools i have put in are correct, i've known the pinch bolts to be 17mm with a 16mm nut. Good luck. Refitting is the opposite of removal and you will need 2 litres of 75/90 gearbox oil.

26th August 2009, 01:20

cheers boys

26th August 2009, 01:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by wazz

you say you have drive shafts for sale??

I do mate. £30 posted for both

Awesome guide above too. Only thing Id reccomend on top is a new pinch bolt and nut, both will come to under a quid from a bolt store and thats including a nylock nut. Dont get the PSA ones though theyre shite, weak as fuck

26th August 2009, 01:54

Yeah i forgot that, thanks ben. And £30 for both is a bargin tbh.

26th August 2009, 01:59

ok m8 ill get back to you in morning, wat it is is that when i leave the clutch out i can hear a knock so im guessing its the drive shafts..

26th August 2009, 02:02

As i when you press the clutch pedal down?

If your shafts are shagged theyll knock as you accelerate, especially round corners.

26th August 2009, 02:08

yeah its when i pull off(letting clutch out), change gear and accelerate basically its when i accelerate every time

26th August 2009, 02:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by wazz

ok m8 ill get back to you in morning, wat it is is that when i leave the clutch out i can hear a knock so im guessing its the drive shafts..

Or do you mean when you dont have your foot on the clutch? Sounds like the realise bearing or input shaft bearings. Most likely to be the realise bearing tbh.

26th August 2009, 02:18

AYe, driveshafts would make noises all the time not just when yu putting torque through the clutch. Im with ben on this one, most likely a input shaft bearing or clutch release bearing issue.

Does the car whistle atall when idling?

26th August 2009, 02:23

i could be just driving along and tapping my foot on and off the accelerator and it would be like giving a judd an a knock rather than be smooth

26th August 2009, 02:26

Thatll be your engine mount Id say.

Start the car up, open the bonnet and rev the engine, and then rock the engine with your hands. Itll be easy to tell if the mounts gone as itll be flapping about like mad.

If not, it could be a shaft. But they very rarely knock on straights

26th August 2009, 02:29

engine mount!!! expensive fix????? well thanks for your help ben i know what to get now

26th August 2009, 02:35

No worries mate. Simple fix but a garage would probably take close to a tonne off you.

The actual mounts are pretty cheap. The lower and gearbox ones are about £20-£25 if you shop about. The ECU side one is a bit more expensive as its hydraulic, not sure how much they are new.

Its just a case of jacking the car up, getting it on axle stands at the front, and then supporting the engine with a plank over your jack. Then loosen off the dodgy mount, if its the gearbox one you need to remove the battery first. If its the ECU one then you need to remove the ECU plate. Then jack the engine and box up or down depending on which ones gone, and just replace em. Its a very simple job.

If its the lower engine mount its even easier, literally just jack up the car, thake off the mount bracket which is three bolts, and then take the bracket to a garage and give a guy there a fiver to press the old one out and get the new one in, then just refit.

Well worth doing yourself

26th August 2009, 02:38

thanks for you help and advive ben ill get on to that tomorrow as its been p***ing me off and now sounds dangerous! lol