throttle bodies

26th August 2009, 23:47

just a quick one, me and a mate have been going tho the site and hes decided he wants to tb his engine what we couldnt find is any makes or kits of throttle bodies on goggle and to be fair wasnt sure what to search for used the given search facilty but hasnt worked leads to progress threads with no mention more detailed information

just needed the names of best used throttle bodies
best kit ?
how easy to fit,

and we will goggle that info and carry on looking

cheers in advance

ps his is a mk1 vtr sameas mine

26th August 2009, 23:53

hes got over £2k right?

26th August 2009, 23:56

dont think hes doing it all in one hit tbh just needs to look in to it more

mite get him to sign up easyer for him to explain lol

27th August 2009, 00:02

my bad found info on jenvy etc thought the search

i am but a simple man....

27th August 2009, 00:03

wild cams
headwork
uprated lifters, valve springs / various other internals
throttleboddies
ECU

a lot of cash

27th August 2009, 00:08

you need to do it all at once else it gets very expensive for mapping.

ECU + boddies needed together for a start.

27th August 2009, 10:50

ive tried looking into this but with no joy.....
im just wanting to know where you would start e.g get a cam in it then get bodies and ecu and do all the internals need changing????
and is it worth doing on the vtr??

27th August 2009, 11:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by djadzvtr

ive tried looking into this but with no joy.....
im just wanting to know where you would start e.g get a cam in it then get bodies and ecu and do all the internals need changing????
and is it worth doing on the vtr??

Best way to do it is do all the breathing mods, eg exhaust and panel filter, then the way you handle it from there is personal preference.

One of the biggest choices is management, a remap or standalone. Personally Im going for the Predator ECU, reason being its the same price as a good quality one off ECU map, remaps are very cheap as the guy making thems sound, and its proven to be effective.

So going on that idea you can do it in whatever stage you want, eg breather mods, ger the PRedator and remap it, then later on get cams, again remap, then in the future again get bodies and map again.

You only need to fit each thing in order rather than together unless you go mad on the spec with high spec internals, in which case youll have to fit bodies, cams and all the rest of the internals simultaneously.

Another big pointer is plan your spec thoroughly before buying anything, and stick to it. Otherwise it will cost you easily twice what it could of in no time from buying the same parts at different spec. Dont get carried away, if its a road car remember that the higher you go with NA tuning the more power is focused in the higher range of the power-band, making it shite for day to day driving.

As for going full out on a VTR, personally Id say if your asking that question then its not, not as a dig in any way but the only way you should really want to whack bodies on anything other than a 16v is firstly if your entering the car into some sort of race league that requires it or B if your one of those crazy sorts who really really like the 8v and have your heart set on a peaky 8v beast.

One last bit of advice, Ive had my car off the road enough recently for various reasons, and it sucks. So if your planning on upgrading your engine to a high spec Id recommend buying another lump and work on it in your garage over time. That way your cars not off the road all the time, and theres less pressure. This is another reason why the Predator ECU is great, as I plan to buy one and get it mapped to the 16v I have in the car, and then remap it to the bodied engine Im building in my garage when its ready. Youll find bargain engines if you look around. I just got a 2005 16v engine for £150 and a Saxo VTS 16v with a few valves missing for a tenner.

Hope that helps, my bad for ze epic essay

27th August 2009, 11:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben_Saxo

Best way to do it is do all the breathing mods, eg exhaust and panel filter, then the way you handle it from there is personal preference.

One of the biggest choices is management, a remap or standalone. Personally Im going for the Predator ECU, reason being its the same price as a good quality one off ECU map, remaps are very cheap as the guy making thems sound, and its proven to be effective.

So going on that idea you can do it in whatever stage you want, eg breather mods, ger the PRedator and remap it, then later on get cams, again remap, then in the future again get bodies and map again.

You only need to fit each thing in order rather than together unless you go mad on the spec with high spec internals, in which case youll have to fit bodies, cams and all the rest of the internals simultaneously.

Another big pointer is plan your spec thoroughly before buying anything, and stick to it. Otherwise it will cost you easily twice what it could of in no time from buying the same parts at different spec. Dont get carried away, if its a road car remember that the higher you go with NA tuning the more power is focused in the higher range of the power-band, making it shite for day to day driving.

As for going full out on a VTR, personally Id say if your asking that question then its not, not as a dig in any way but the only way you should really want to whack bodies on anything other than a 16v is firstly if your entering the car into some sort of race league that requires it or B if your one of those crazy sorts who really really like the 8v and have your heart set on a peaky 8v beast.

One last bit of advice, Ive had my car off the road enough recently for various reasons, and it sucks. So if your planning on upgrading your engine to a high spec Id recommend buying another lump and work on it in your garage over time. That way your cars not off the road all the time, and theres less pressure. This is another reason why the Predator ECU is great, as I plan to buy one and get it mapped to the 16v I have in the car, and then remap it to the bodied engine Im building in my garage when its ready. Youll find bargain engines if you look around. I just got a 2005 16v engine for £150 and a Saxo VTS 16v with a few valves missing for a tenner.

Hope that helps, my bad for ze epic essay

spot on that mate many thanks

!!!

imo i did want to get the vtr going well so ive done the basics eg decat zorst air filter,and ive just put it back on standard wheels and droped it 60mm and the plan was for my mate to fit a cam and my other mate to do the map/chip.....im prob always going to end up with the vts but prob not for another year (insurance).....so the idea was to have a poky little 8v vtr that could have a go with a standard vts????

27th August 2009, 11:32

No worries. Yeah thats sounds cool, VTRs can be made as powerful as the VTS quite simply. Only thing is camming the VTR will cost you £500 minimum even with your mates doing it, thats enough for a VTS engine and a few parts to stockpile in the garage for a conversion next year

Have a read of this too mate;

VTR/VTS Tuning

27th August 2009, 11:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben_Saxo

No worries. Yeah thats sounds cool, VTRs can be made as powerful as the VTS quite simply. Only thing is camming the VTR will cost you £500 minimum even with your mates doing it, thats enough for a VTS engine and a few parts to stockpile in the garage for a conversion next year

Have a read of this too mate;

VTR/VTS Tuning

right ive had a quick read and its looking like the best plans would prob be either keep the car how it is for now (bad times) and change the engine and do the cams on the 16v lump and the engine mods whilst the engine is out of the car then stick it in the vtr (good times)
one quick question.....is there any draw backs in there any differace in the vtr & vts in terms of brakes ......for example if i had a vtr with no engine and a vts with no engine would there be any differances????

p.s sorry for all the questions but much apriciated for your answers

27th August 2009, 11:57

No probs, and theres only 2 small changes and thats the master cylinder on the VTS is very slightly bigger, meaning the brakes will feel more tight and responsive, and the VTS has ABS as std. Otherwise the setups identical. Both are fairly shite for fast driving though.

The best all round setup for the money is the 266mm setup with decent disks and pads, imo anyway. Light but do the job. You dont NEED any bigger. Although 4 pots are epic but expensive. Personally I dont think the 283mm calipers are worth it for the extra weight and cost of performance disks/pads.

27th August 2009, 12:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben_Saxo

No probs, and theres only 2 small changes and thats the master cylinder on the VTS is very slightly bigger, meaning the brakes will feel more tight and responsive, and the VTS has ABS as std. Otherwise the setups identical. Both are fairly shite for fast driving though.

The best all round setup for the money is the 266mm setup with decent disks and pads, imo anyway. Light but do the job. You dont NEED any bigger. Although 4 pots are epic but expensive. Personally I dont think the 283mm calipers are worth it for the extra weight and cost of performance disks/pads.

thank you mate!!!
id love a bit off abs as my brakes are deadly especialy in the wet!!!!lol

so i surpose if i was to uprate the brakes anyway there would be no differance.......think vts lump is going to be the way forward and i surpose the car will only be off the road for a weekend!! now all i need to do is find a 16v lump!!!
thanks again mate .....great help!!

27th August 2009, 12:12

No worries mate, good luck with it all, its a good laugh