Lowereing videos

2nd September 2009, 17:28

this is a video i have found of a guy lowering his 306 it looks almost the same as a saxo

i always find videos easier than pics so have a look(this was not made by me)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAUjQ...eature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LR4MX-Kc4c&NR=1

thanks

2nd September 2009, 18:03

And thats the best way to screw the bearings on a saxo/106, 306 isn't as bad to do that with.

Do it the propper way and the propper way only.

2nd September 2009, 18:21

Thats a very good video, much easier then pictures, cheers mate

2nd September 2009, 18:29

handy that, nice one.

2nd September 2009, 18:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisB

And thats the best way to screw the bearings on a saxo/106, 306 isn't as bad to do that with.

Do it the propper way and the propper way only.

yup well said,

me and my brother did my mates yesterday,

one came out really easy with the slide hammer, but the other one we had to smash out with a big bar on the end of the torsion bar, and then just re-tap it when we got it out with a m8 tap

Adz

2nd September 2009, 18:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisB

And thats the best way to screw the bearings on a saxo/106, 306 isn't as bad to do that with.

Do it the propper way and the propper way only.

just so people can understand where your coming from mate, can you add why its such a bad way, and whats being done wrong???

because i wanted to do my soon and was going to use this video as a guide??

cheers

2nd September 2009, 18:54

where he moves the arm out instead of atch pulling the torsion bar out of the hole that can damage the bearings (the bit where he says " you can see how far out ive pulled it from the gap here) and thats the problem with it

2nd September 2009, 18:56

Well really, any major disturbance to the trailing arm bearings won't help, then coupled by the fact that the outer bearing will come completely off the beam its most likely that it'll fall apart.

The bearings were shite to start with and it with X amount of years of corrosion on the bearing cages it just adds to the problem even more.

If you can remove the bars without the bearings moving in the wrong direction then your chances of damage are somewhat slimmer than knocking the trailing arms off, although you can still damage them from lowering the propper way but as i said, its less likely.

2nd September 2009, 18:59

Off topic(krisB whats you 306Dturbo like was thinking about gettin the HDI any tips to look out for etc?)

2nd September 2009, 19:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baynesey

just so people can understand where your coming from mate, can you add why its such a bad way, and whats being done wrong???

because i wanted to do my soon and was going to use this video as a guide??

cheers

because it puts to much stress on the torsion bars tbh, iirc,

what you want to do is,

take the bolts out both ends of the torsion bar,
then the offset washers,
then use a slide hammer to pull the torsion bars out,

if you carnt do it like that,
then get a big bar and hit the torsion bars out though the other side, ( they will only come out one way as one side is bigger,)

but keep watching the trailing arm on the other side to make sure it doesn't fall off,

if it does, then you will need to get someone the otherside hitting the trailing arm back on with a hammer as your hitting the torsion bar from the other side,
if you get me ?

tbh mate, if you don't know what your doing, then leave it for the pro's, because its not as easy as alot of people think, and it can go badly wrong if it isn't done right,

whatever you do, don't get it done the notchs way,

as said in the video, theres 4 places, so basicly, 0mm, 30mm, 60mm, 90mm,
but its wrong, so take the torsion bars fully out, and lift the trailing arm up to where you want it,
and push the torsion bars back in,

the only right bit in that video is how he measures it,

Adz

2nd September 2009, 19:12

Note the bearing on the left doesnt even have a cage left in it, and the bearing to the right of it has also fallen apart.

And these are the how the bearing look inside the trailing arm.

If people need their car lowered or beams rebuilt then drop me a pm, you can also find me on loads of other forums or search for KrisB on facebook.

2nd September 2009, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisB

Note the bearing on the left doesnt even have a cage left in it, and the bearing to the right of it has also fallen apart.

And these are the how the bearing look inside the trailing arm.

If people need their car lowered or beams rebuilt then drop me a pm, you can also find me on loads of other forums or search for KrisB on facebook.

some good pics mate,

and yeh as said above, but in the East mids Area

Adz

2nd September 2009, 19:18

And to be honest, even with a slide hammer you could still pull the arms off if you're not carefull.

I have my trusty puller... never fails

Raaa, magic! (these next two pics aren't mine, i stole them from the guy who made the puller)

2nd September 2009, 19:19

good viddie
makes me wanna try!

2nd September 2009, 19:25

yeh krisB you can pull it off with the slid hammer, but just get someone to hit it back on with a hammer, or.. put your car near a wall and rest a piece of wood inbetween, to trap it, and to stop it from falling off

and as for that design, it hardly works, because it normally just strechs the threads, and if you dont watch it, you can get really strong bolts, but then it will might strip the threads in end of the torsion bar, because its harder metal,

Adz

2nd September 2009, 19:29

I can garuntee that doesn't strip threads. The 13mm locknut on the peice of M8 thread is there as a weak point, that gives out before it strips the threads out of the t-bars

The puller is pretty damn big to be honest, thats a 30mm spanner on there and a massive M15 or summat silly thread.

The only way you strip the threads is by letting the tip turn inside the torsion bar as you tighten up the big nut, if you get a socket on the end like in the picture and a spanner you wont have a problem. I've done well over 200 beams by now and never once stipped a thread. (Anti roll bar plate bolts are a different piggin story though)

2nd September 2009, 19:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisB

I can garuntee that doesn't strip threads. The 13mm locknut on the peice of M8 thread is there as a weak point, that gives out before it strips the threads out of the t-bars

The puller is pretty damn big to be honest, thats a 30mm spanner on there and a massive M15 or summat silly thread.

The only way you strip the threads is by letting the tip turn inside the torsion bar as you tighten up the big nut, if you get a socket on the end like in the picture and a spanner you wont have a problem. I've done well over 200 beams by now and never once stipped a thread. (Anti roll bar plate bolts are a different piggin story though)

ow right, yeh sorry mate i see now, well i only used a long, m8 bolt and a piece of tube with a plate my brother welded on the end, to used as a puller, but it just kept streching the threads, but as you say, yours is a right big spanner and as you say around m15 thread or bigger, so might be a good way

Adz

2nd September 2009, 19:50

Actually, i might get some more of these pullers made up to sell on. Along with dummy shocks.

2nd September 2009, 20:08

Kris your always the sale man how the new business going got much interest yet.

2nd September 2009, 20:28

Yeah man, pretty much booked up every day now. And if i'm not booked up i like to make more money buy making obsolete things.