Things that can make your vts idle poorley want to replace them UPDATE!!

  1. #1
    hi just want a list of all the things that can make a vts idle poorly as mine is running like a dog

    As im going to replace the lot!!

    So far i have checked and put on a brand New the things below

    lamba sensor
    idle control valve
    640amp battery
    new earth to gearbox
    left the battery off overnight to reset the ecu

    None of witch has worked

    anything else mentioned will be replaced thanx
  2. #2
    try the right section.
  3. #3
    Have you just cleaned up the throttlebody? Its most likely full of oil and shite. Lots of sensors around there and none of them like oil and shite. White spirit and a cloth on a stick/bristle brush are the way forward
  4. #4
    mine was the throttle posistion sensor mate, on my vtr but dont know if thats the same case on a vts
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  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ben_Saxo View Post
    Have you just cleaned up the throttlebody? Its most likely full of oil and shite. Lots of sensors around there and none of them like oil and shite. White spirit and a cloth on a stick/bristle brush are the way forward
    i can see my face in it.
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by kirtisb View Post
    mine was the throttle posistion sensor mate, on my vtr but dont know if thats the same case on a vts
    this has been ordered from gsf
  7. #7
    In that case the TPS is a good call.

    Also have you had the inlet apart recently? Might be worth renewing the seals as they might be leaking and they cost pennies. Any pathetically small air leak anywhere will make it idle like a cunt
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  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ben_Saxo View Post
    In that case the TPS is a good call.

    Also have you had the inlet apart recently? Might be worth renewing the seals as they might be leaking and they cost pennies. Any pathetically small air leak anywhere will make it idle like a cunt
    will see got to pick up the tps twomora will buy if that fails checked the pipe that goes into the brake servo thats tight and not letting in air.
  9. #9
    Just had my mate from fords round with his code reader reset the ecu but it had 2 fault codes....

    Air leak and the outher was unknown ?

    thinks it could be the small hose that comes off the air box and into the side of the rocker cover as the sill is cracked and it pops out but it has been like this since i got it and wasnt playing up when i got it ?

    thorts please
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by fraggle_VTR View Post
    try the right section.
    Thanx mate you can post in the for sale section now
  11. #11
    AIr leak is bad times, not really expensive but time consuming. Its deffo not the pipe you mentioned, the induction system before the throttlebody eg the inlet, and the TB itself is the area youll have your problem in, the area before that doesnt work in the same pressure and wont cause problems. You can take that pipe off completely and it wouldn't cause any problems other than oil vapour leakage.

    Id recommend taking the inlet off completely and checking it very throughoughly for anything that could resemble a crack, renew the seals on the split section on the branches, and at the head port.

    Check the carbon canister system and its tubing, this runs from an outlet on the far left side of the inlet, near the fuel rail feed, then under the ECU tray and into a canister in the wing. This all works off pressure so if theres a hole in the system here somewhere, youll have a problem. Try that after checking the inlet as youll need to take the wing off to get at the canister which means removing quite a lot of other stuff.

    The only other place air can leak is in the head itself after that point, but the likelyhood of you head being cracked is very very small
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  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ben_Saxo View Post
    AIr leak is bad times, not really expensive but time consuming. Its deffo not the pipe you mentioned, the induction system before the throttlebody eg the inlet, and the TB itself is the area youll have your problem in, the area before that doesnt work in the same pressure and wont cause problems. You can take that pipe off completely and it wouldn't cause any problems other than oil vapour leakage.

    Id recommend taking the inlet off completely and checking it very throughoughly for anything that could resemble a crack, renew the seals on the split section on the branches, and at the head port.

    Check the carbon canister system and its tubing, this runs from an outlet on the far left side of the inlet, near the fuel rail feed, then under the ECU tray and into a canister in the wing. This all works off pressure so if theres a hole in the system here somewhere, youll have a problem. Try that after checking the inlet as youll need to take the wing off to get at the canister which means removing quite a lot of other stuff.

    The only other place air can leak is in the head itself after that point, but the likelyhood of you head being cracked is very very small
    THANX youve been very helpful ill pull it apart over the weekend and update sunday nite
  13. #13
    No worries mate, good luck with it