Spraying bumpers (colour coding) walk through.

  1. #1
    So I been colour coding my car and just wanna share my experience with you guys as i couldnt find a guide on this. For this example I will use the side strips.

    Materials:
    Plastic primer
    paint ( from halfrauds. Mixed in store £11.99)
    clear laquer
    masking tape
    sand paper grit 120, 800, 1200, there what i used. worked fine.
    hoover with brush attachment.

    1. clean strip with t-cut to remove any dirt oil etc.

    2. with masking tape surrond the strip completely right up to the edge.

    3. start sanding. use 120 1st. U want to sand the til the black textured colour turns to a smooth grey. Go all the way to the edges. Now go up to your next paper. do the same. u shud see a difference each time you go onto necx paper. then finish off with at least 1200.

    4. tape newspaper ot plastic bags or whatever to the surronding area of body.

    5. with hoover and brucs attachment, suck up any paticles on bumper.

    6. Now its primer time. Spray from a real distace. u wanna just allow the primer to set onto strip- so ur first layer is super thin but it doesnt matter if its not even. allow to dry for 15 mins. time for second coat. do the same again. allow that to dry. then sand with your highest grade sand paper to get smooth again. now do 2 more coats and sanding again till smooth. You want about 4 coats. I sanded at every 2 coats. if its done properly, the sanding should take only about 3 mins.

    7. Paint time. You want an even spray coming out from the nozzle. so practice on something first. spray from a distance and just allow to set. This is basically the same as for primer. lightly sand down every 2 coats. but obviously not on your last coat. 20-3o mins between coats.

    8. Now its clear laquer time. spray from a distace to get a smooth application. apply 2-4 coats 10 mins drying in between.

    Finished! if done with care, the side strip running through door section shud take about 2-3 hours. sanding takes the piss.

    Things to avoid:

    Spraying too close will make ur spraying motion show up on the surface and the paint will run.

    Sanding is crucial at every stage stated. If you dont sand between coats u will get bad orange peel.

    With the above equipment, it is next to impossible to get a finish as good as factory. But u shud still get a very decent finish.

    Hope that helps.
  2. #2
    Im actually doing mine tomorow but in gloss black on my icelandic grey, just done all the wheels in graphite grey and just want to tidy the car up while i have allot of free time scince being redundant : ( the "orangle peel look" wont appear on gloss black will it?
  3. #3


    This was the bad boi under contruction.

    Your bound to get overspray on other parts of body. use rubbing compound to remove.
  4. #4
    erm I dnt see why it shouldnt. just do your best to get it smooth. u will find that the last bit you do will be the best. its just practise and i hope ive given u a headstart.
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by C18VTR View Post
    Im actually doing mine tomorow but in gloss black on my icelandic grey, just done all the wheels in graphite grey and just want to tidy the car up while i have allot of free time scince being redundant : ( the "orangle peel look" wont appear on gloss black will it?
    will do if its cold has to be over 55 celcias for coats to dry or youll get orange peel

    EX paint/sprayer btw check out my front bumper in my PT done by can yes by can few more pics in there
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Phsyco_Paff View Post
    will do if its cold has to be over 55 degrees for coats to dry or youll get orange peel

    EX paint/sprayer btw check out my front bumper in my PT done by can yes by can few more pics in there
    I always thought it was 22 degrees for perfect painting tempreture?

    dont matter i use a hairdryer to get my surface warm for first coats and a little between coats and it turns out ok actually : o
  7. #7
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by C18VTR View Post
    I always thought it was 22 degrees for perfect painting tempreture?

    dont matter i use a hairdryer to get my surface warm for first coats and a little between coats and it turns out ok actually : o
    i ment celcias lol my bad
  8. #8
    wow didnt realise there was a temp for painting i done mines a good couple months back must have got lucky lol havnt had any "orange peel"
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Phsyco_Paff View Post
    will do if its cold has to be over 55 celcias for coats to dry or youll get orange peel

    EX paint/sprayer btw check out my front bumper in my PT done by can yes by can few more pics in there
    Sorry mate im going to have to disagree with you on that one. Orange peel is not down to temp is down to the application. Look at how many people paint parts in their garages/ gardens.. no problem..
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Powellyboi View Post
    Sorry mate im going to have to disagree with you on that one. Orange peel is not down to temp is down to the application. Look at how many people paint parts in their garages/ gardens.. no problem..

    Yeh I agree. i found that no sanding between layes gives bad orange peel.
  11. #11
    you do not ned to sand between coats on the primer as long as there is 2 dust coats and one good coat that will do. then just sand the third coat of the primer. i would also not sand the paint its self down as it is not needed. then when you have put the clear laquer on once it is sanded use a good polish and it should look good
  12. #12
    what polish do u recomend?
  13. #13
    For finishing it off use Farecla G3 paste compound with a polisher and it will look spot on mate
  14. #14
    I might add... dont polish them for a good couple of days to a week after you have painted them mate.. dont want to put all that hard work back onto a cloth now do ya
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Powellyboi View Post
    I might add... dont polish them for a good couple of days to a week after you have painted them mate.. dont want to put all that hard work back onto a cloth now do ya
    it wont matter as the stuff i recommened is used in body shops. what you need to do is rub the clear laquer done with some 1500 paper or if you can get it 2000 grit paper and then polish it you with the G3 and a polisher.
  16. #16
    trust me it will matter - bodyshops spray in spray booths that get up to heat and cure the paint. I wouldnt touch it for 48hours at least but down to you..
  17. #17
    body shops touch them the same day they paint them because they rub the clear coat down the get rid of any dirt then polish them up using G3 or same kind of stuff. as all G3 does is restores the shine that has been lost by rubbing it down. it does not affect the paint work.
  18. #18
    yes we do but... we cook the paint up to 70degrees for an hours cook.
  19. #19
    it still will not matter as spray cans only take 24hours to set any way so you could leave it for a day. and is that not a little to high? as most booths only bake cars up to 60 degrees
  20. #20
    ours are normally set to 65. never have any problems. If we are doing large panels of fiberglass composite we turn them down sometimes..