i really want to put battery in the back but where do you guys put them i have a tray i could sink into the boot is this a good idea
battery relocation
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#1
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#2So long as you can secure the battery in placd it will be fine.
You will need a few metres of good thick cable, an earth lead.
And possibly a cut off switch.
I have it all for sale in the correct section -
#3have a look at Willsys or Toads Progress thread buddy, they have put their batteries in the boot and both made a very nice job of it.
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#4You could get a varley race battery and a holder like this:
http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=...ell=1&oi=spell -
#5Battery box off ebay for £25-£55 4 metres of 0 gauge wire an earth with and some clamps, job done
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#6aslong as the battery is secure, you dont want that hitting you in the head if you rolled,
you need a good run of desent thick cable, a run to the front. then a earth can be bolted in the boot, and a kill switch come in handy when working on the car
oh and earth the gearbox

cable to start on left, cable from battery in the centre and cable to fuse box on the right.
the red cable in the background is an earth from the gearbox to the body using the old earth points.
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#7mine is mounted behind the passenger seat on the floor. Trying to balance the weight distribution the best i can
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#8im also thinking of doing this, is there any how to guides?
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#9dont wana sound dumb but why would u want to put battery in the boot. is this jst for more room up front or is there a logical reason
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#12I'm going to put mine behind the passenger seat.
I want to mount a catch-tank where it is now. I'm going to put an inline fuse as close to the battery as poss too, just to be safe.
If your going to go to the hassle of moving the battery, mount it as low as possible on passengers side. -
#13A fuse wouldnt really be needed tbh. I am sure alot of people would disagree with me. But the standard setup doesnt require a fuse. What should it matter where the battery is mounted.Quote:I'm going to put mine behind the passenger seat.
I want to mount a catch-tank where it is now. I'm going to put an inline fuse as close to the battery as poss too, just to be safe.
If your going to go to the hassle of moving the battery, mount it as low as possible on passengers side.
I have battery cut off switched available if anybody needs/wants one -
#14so goin kind of off subject if i move battery to back off the car to help weight distribution wt else gd be done to help this
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#15Yeh I wasn't sure about a fuse as it's fused in the engine bay anyway - but I'd rather not risk it.
A battery cut-off switch is a must I'd say, easy to cut power to engine bay for working on it. -
#16Depending on what you planned to use the car for then it might be as far as to keep water from getting to it, i have seen some road rallies go through really deap water lol
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#17i wanna do it because ive got a viper kit and wanna route it out through the morretts and keep joints and bends to a minimal and that requires me to go right through the battery tray and to add a bit of weight to the rear without adding weight to the car, as its very tail happy now the vt is completly stripped out
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#18i done the same not to long ago. its very easy to do. i have the same box as in the pic above. think my cable was 3 guage off ebay. i put my power steering pump where my battery used to be so i can get my custom boost pipes run through alot easier

you dont need a guide. just like wireing you amp up..
take the power cable off the battery.
follow the earth cable to where it is earthed, unbolt the earth cable from the body.
unbolt the battery take it to the boot and bolt it down. you can bolt the old bracket in the boot if you dont have much money or buy a fancy battery box.
find or make a new good earth point in the boot and earth it again to the body
run your power cable to the boot like your amp leads. can do it underneath the car but will need to protect the cable. do not connect it yet.
in the engine bay any earth cable just earth them back to the body.
cut the power cables off the cap in the bay, and connect them to the new cable you have run to the boot. make sure you do it properly.you can get a proper connector box from ebay or halfrauds.
check their is no loose cables and your happy with how everything ir run then connect the power cable to the battery. you may need some new wing nut release battery terminals or some sort to connect the cables back to the battery but can get then off ebay or halfrauds or something.
think thats it
hope i didnt miss anything
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#19You could re-locate the battey into the bootQuote:i really want to put battery in the back but where do you guys put them i have a tray i could sink into the boot is this a good idea
With one of thes
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FIBREGLASS-BAT...item3ca7f64b9e
Or you could get a race battery an put it behind the drivers/passengers seat's... -
#20i moved mine as i wanted to have my BMC filter going to the morette at a 45 degree's, but now its just to keep the bay looking clean.
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#21Really easy to do, just takes a bit of time depending on how anal you want to be hiding the cable etc

Plenty of pics in my thread if you want to look. Also relocated washer bottle to the rear. -
#22Quote:Really easy to do, just takes a bit of time depending on how anal you want to be hiding the cable etc

Plenty of pics in my thread if you want to look. Also relocated washer bottle to the rear.
i read the wholle progress thread bud amazing stuff and given me a few ideas but im looking to actually sink it in to the boot floor so all good avice just gotta get stuff and do it now thanks again guys -
#23would it not be easier to just put it behind the passengers seat? instead of sinking it into the boot ?!Quote:i read the wholle progress thread bud amazing stuff and given me a few ideas but im looking to actually sink it in to the boot floor so all good avice just gotta get stuff and do it now thanks again guys
For the difference it'll actually make - maybe just relocate it to the boot on the floor? -
#24How much are the race batterys i.e. the smaller ones? I can get the wiring, cut off, etc from my local road and stage shop where i get quite aloot of stuff from.
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#25Suitable racing style batteries seem to be ~£80 - £120, but can go cheaper or more expensive.
I am planning to re-locate my battery to inside the car and am just looking to purchase an isolation switch, etc.
Whilst an isolation switch isn't essential (for non-competition), I've had more than enough bad experiences, where Ive needed to whip the battery leads off quickly - for me, an isolator will be essential!
After reading up about the race batteries, I'm not sure they will be any use for semi-regular use on the road. The amperage seems too low. I'm liking the liquid-free element though!
Does anyone have any practical experience of a race battery. Unless I hear some good feedback, I think I shall opt for a battery box and a standard-ish battery. Anyone had experiences running a smaller than standard battery? -
#26I was worried with like the battery going flat with it being smaller which probs mean it wouldnt last as long as a normal sized one.
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#27Any input on my query regarding practical experiences from race battery owners??
Also, any pics of peoples re-location and isolation setups - read both willsy's & toad's threads as recommended (very interesting progress guys!), but not a lot of detail about isolation.
I've bought some bits/pieces to get my battery re-location on the move, but always good to compare notes
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#28My planned setup was as follows:
- a 3 way adapter for the engine bay (1 for the battery cable to the car, 1 from the starter, and 1 to go to both fuse boxes (splits into 2))
- then run the power cable via the dash with a cut-off switch
- then cable from cut-off switch to an inline fuse (70 or 80Amp iirc)
- then a small run of cable to the battery behind the passenger seat
- earth from battery to nearest point really
Seomthing along those lines - want to solder the ring terminals on the battery cable to make sure it lasts and the cable doesn't come out the terminal.
Regarding race battery's, i was under the impression that they don't have a huge amount of 'balls' to get the car started, especially on a cold morning - and don't cope with a lot of amp draw from them. I've got no practical experience of using one, but I'd look to get one that matches the oem battery spec, if not exceed it if poss. -
#29Have heard similar to above really, although some of the race batetries will start the car no problems, but don't have a large reserve of current, so leaving the car with alarms etc on for periods of time will drain it much faster then oe type batteries. I have a race battery, but not fitted yet, so can't comment too much at the minute unfortunately.
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#30Why would anyone want to move it anyway! The weight is not going make much different.. Plus they look ugly in the boot etc.... Waste of time imo
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#31A friend of mine had a Varley red Top Battery on his 306 rallye.........tbh it was a pain in the ass.
They dont have a great deal of power for turning over the engine, imo if you get a race battery you need a battery conditioner.....its like a battery charger that monitors the battery voltage, when it gets below a certain voltage the charger kicks in and keeps it charged up.
Here is the one he had,
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-...tm_medium=feed
Hope this helps in some way
James -
#32Race battery on the road is a bad idea imo (from experience) They drain quickly if not used then the cranking power is not good.
Also having them in the boot is OK but it seems having a very long cable back to the front makes firing up the engine more difficult
