wheel bearing trouble.

31st January 2010, 18:11

my driverside wheel bearing is huming, so i need to change it asap, could somebody tell me how do i fit the new one please, do you ne4ed a press? cheers guys any help apprciated.

31st January 2010, 18:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastroadkid69

my driverside wheel bearing is huming, so i need to change it asap, could somebody tell me how do i fit the new one please, do you ne4ed a press? cheers guys any help apprciated.

yes you need bench press........

31st January 2010, 19:01

do you no how to fit the bearing, do you have to take the strut of the car? cheers. and when i buy the new bearing is it better to buy new cerclips to hold it in place aswell?

31st January 2010, 19:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastroadkid69

do you no how to fit the bearing, do you have to take the strut of the car? cheers. and when i buy the new bearing is it better to buy new cerclips to hold it in place aswell?

Its easyer to press the bearing out with the strut off the car!! you can use peace of round bar and hammer to knock your bearing out!! use plenty of wd40 or plus gas..........

31st January 2010, 19:30

cheers saxokid100.

31st January 2010, 19:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastroadkid69

cheers saxokid100.

no worries nice to help........

1st February 2010, 04:45

I know ive sort of said this to people before but hopefully it might help

:

Remove O/S driveshaft nut (30mm socket), jack up high, axle stand it, remove O/S wheel, drain gearbox oil, undo lower ball joint then jack up the brake disk so the ball joint in the wishbone comes away from the suspension strut (you might need to hammer the wishbone down if the joint is rusted in). Then pull the brake disk and suspension strut gently towards you (away from the car) while pushing the driveshaft inwards with your other hand to remove it from the hub. Dont let it hang from the bearing mounting or it might knacker your inner CV joint. Slacken the 10mm (i think) nuts which hold the driveshaft bearing in the central mounting. You dont need to take them off if you don't want, you just need them slack so you can push them out and turn the semi-circle ends so the driveshaft and bearing can be pulled out of the gearbox. Undo the brake calliper (7mm allen key?) and cable tie it up so its not dangling on the brake line! Undo the brake calliper mounting (19mm socket?) Unscrew the two alignment torx screws holding the brake disk on and remove the disk. Turn steering full lock right so its easier to get to the back of the bearing. You need to remove the circlip - use WD40 and slacken it with knocking it round with a flat ended screw driver - it will be rusted in quite well. You could try using circlip pliers but you might be best to prise it out, you should have a new circlip with your new bearing. Once that's off you need to knock the hub and bearing out - and that's easier said than done.

I found this was the best method if you don't happen to have a hydraulic press lying around: working wheel arch side - out - brute force with a hammer gets the hub out with the inner part of the bearing probably still on (you will need a blow torch to heat this up and it will just slip off). Then your left with the outer part of the bearing inside the suspension strut and about 30 greasy ball bearings all over the floor. You need to then weld a bead on the inner circumference of the old bearing then using a chisel and mallet knock it out - hit inwards towards the engine (don't get too mad, is does come out, worst is yet to come

) Have a brew and calm down (and check its the right size bearing for your hub). Getting the new one in

... Make sure the inner part of the strut is clean with not a crumb of anything which might stop it going in fully. Using loads of WD40, align the bearing up to the hole squarely (or roundly?). Use abit of wood and knock the bearing in (from the inside out, which makes it even harder). It gets harder and harder and eventually after about 2 hours you will beable to whack it in fully. Have another brew and calm down the worst is over

. Make sure the groove for the new circlip is clear and you can see all of it. Put the new circlip on using circlip pliers. Dont think you can do without it cos you cant - it will just create problems within 100 miles. WD40 or oil the hub (which by now will definitely have cooled from the blow torching) and while holding the inner part of the bearing, tap the hub in (the driveshaft nut will pull it fully together, so dont worry if your hub has some play in it.)

Refit brake disk, calliper mount and calliper (make sure the bolts are tight). Refit the driveshaft back through the bearing mounting and into the gearbox. Pulling the suspension out again, put the driveshaft back in the hub. Tighten driveshaft nut. Bolt balljoint back up. Wheel on. Tighten driveshaft nut tight. Job done. Absolute nightmare.

Dont forget to refill gearbox oil - I use a 22mm deep socket to undo reverse light switch and use a funnel to put it in there. It uses 2 litres from empty.

Good luck and if you have chance of a garage doing it fairly cheap - get them to do it!

1st February 2010, 20:29

Very nise write up budy..........A star from me.............

24th May 2010, 19:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxokid100

yes you need bench press........

with dumbells or not? lol