Going silly low, where can i get the parts needed?

  1. #1
    this is how my car currently sits (I want the front touching the top of that fag box!):





    So list of things i'll need:

    Custom longer drop links- Where can i get some made up?
    Notched chassis- got someone who can do this, if i dont do it myself
    Custom shorter springs- faulkner springs prob sticking to 300lbs think thats hard enough
    adjustable top mounts- which are the best to use? Can i still weld in a reinforment plate if i use them
    some sort of sump guard- where can i buy these?
    Custom exhaust- prob butcher the standard one for clearance tbh
    some way of bolting the sideskirts on instead of flimsy clips?

    Anything i've missed, over looked?
  2. #2
    I dunno but dam that gunna be low. Is this a diff 1 to the one u was selling? That was gold aswell wernt it
  3. #3
    If you are going that low and that hard on springs just take off you ARB so will wont have an issue with that. Longer drop links will make the arb hit the floor aswell.

    Notching the shell is not a good idea at all. Can only really remove 5mm for the flat on the chassis legs.

    Adjustable top mounts, only really AST's that er worth using. And yes you can still use plates.

    Sump gaurds, will be way to low to the floor. will hit the floor all the time but can get them form the likes of balancemotorsport, rallydesign etc.

    Any custom exhaust palce will do the exhaust for you. Ditch all boxes and pull it up into the channel. will have to dodge gear linkages though.

    If you bolt the side skirts and hit the floor then they will just exploded.
  4. #4
    was considering removing the arb but been advised against it, would save alot of hassle though

    was going to notch the chassis for driveshaft clearance, there a 106 thats crazy low with it done locally to me

    where can you get ast top mounts from kam?

    ye exhaust should be one of the easy bits tbh

    think im still going to bolt the sideskirts on as my old mk1 lost 2 and wasnt even that low, just in snow etc. Would rather smash them to bits than just to knock them off 7 lose them. If that makes sesnse

    May consider getting some plates welded to the sump, seen it done on a caddy lowrider to help protect from scarpes

    Anything else you would suggest considering?
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by blackvtrt View Post
    was going to notch the chassis for driveshaft clearance, there a 106 thats crazy low with it done locally to me

    Anything else you would suggest considering?
    If you're going that low you'll have issues with the wishbones hitting or even sitting on the shell well before having problems with the driveshafts.

    If your springs are that stiff and you've got good dampers theres not any great need for the ARB, will be much less hassle than keeping it on.
  6. #6
    i was reading something about a 306 (i think i may of be krisB on here) anyway, he had chopped abit off his, and they welding a thicker plate onto the bottom.

    sump i was on about
  7. #7
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by willsy View Post
    If your springs are that stiff and you've got good dampers theres not any great need for the ARB, will be much less hassle than keeping it on.
    which would also allow him to lose the droplinks?
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by frankie View Post
    which would also allow him to lose the droplinks?
    Yep No ARB, no droplinks
  9. #9
    thanks i know you guys know your stuff, i'll be running gaz adjustable shocks. From the spec direct from gaz they have a reduce stoke to 140mm (doesn't mean much to me tbh as i dont know what standard dampers are). Is there any shorter/better dampers available, blisteins?

    Is it necessiery (SP) at some point to upgrade the rear torsion bar to match to something like a 23mm one?
  10. #10
    could always get the dampers machined down.

    how advisable that is dont know, but couldnt see why it would be a problem.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Custom shorter springs- faulkner springs prob sticking to 300lbs think thats hard enough
    Will the car be doing track days?
    300lb springs for the road?


    i had 200lb and that was very hard on the road.
    If your running 300lb springs you could do away with the front arb and wont need drop links.

    If going for those spring rates, personally it will be total shite on the road.
    Will need 23mm torsion bars and thicker rear arb.

    And then need to buy the substancial shocks to compensate. so bilstein group ns probably the black capped ones tbh which i dont know where you order them from. Special tuning?
  12. #12
    pugsport front dampers are very good for it and you can machine the dampers down aswell.

    It will make nor difference without a arb at that height. Lea ran his saxo without a arb and made no difference. Only had 200lb springs aswell. if speak to mattnewton he can knock you arms off the struts and weld them on lower would help with steering and would clear the shell easier in regards to track rod ends. If you really wanted to you would be able to lower the bottom spring pans even more as you could extend the thread.
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by blackvtrt View Post
    was considering removing the arb but been advised against it, would save alot of hassle though
    Why advised against it?

    With springs to that lbs aswell you dont have to have one and it will be setup fine you can run a car with standard equipment without an ARB. Not that your going to be able to tell the difference. I doubt your taking the car to any limits are you?

    EDIT 1.1s for example dont have front arbs..
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by db_sax View Post
    EDIT 1.1s for example dont have front arbs..
    They do, its thinner, and rather than have drop links they bolt down midway on the wishbone
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  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by willsy View Post
    They do, its thinner, and rather than have drop links they bolt down midway on the wishbone
    Thanks for clearin that up...maybe he could do that then? Im not 100% on the 1.1 setup or going that low, so dunno if its possible or not.

    How low is that in mm in the pic apart from fag packet low lol
  16. #16


    Thats the 1.1 arb/wishbone setup
  17. #17
    I didnt know about that setup! So if your not running an ARB you can use VT wishbones? (just out of interest)

    Still, just take the arb off tbh.

    Wouldnt the steering rack be at some mad angle too? Not sure of how capable they are for going low either..
  18. #18
    Yep all parts are completely interchangeable.

    The chassis essentially is identical, if you have a look underneath no matter what model it is all the bolt holes are there to run both types of ARB.

    As long as you've got the parts its all pretty simple to fit
  19. #19
    is mattnewton a username on here? wouldn't mind doing that tbh, means i could prob run the 6.5" 300lbs springs im using now rather than 5.5" or so i was going to order, maybe some helpers if it creates alot more space for threads?
    also how much camber can you get with those top mounts?
  20. #20
    If you get yourself some of these Matt (or any other reputable welder) will be able to fit them. The lower spring pan just taps off with a mallet

    There are 3 bumps underneath that hold the spring pan on tightly, these need grinding down slightly when this adjustable sleeve slides over

    Itll be a very tight fit anyway so and the bottom needs to be welded to the strut leg.

    Theyre cut down in length so that the damper retaining collar is tightened down on the original threaded bit

    http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...kd51dqfq6k8t10

    This is mine



    Then spring wise you can order whatever length and whatever lb rate you want ordered direct from Faulkner.

    http://www.dfaulknersprings.com/

    Thats the basics anyway. A few other parts to obtain but its a much better way of doing it
  21. #21
    what type of weld did you use? My dads been welding daily for 40+ years so if i get the right gear will be able to do it no prob!
    Do they do that thread kit in 2.5"? just what i running at the mo thats all. Im sure i could get some made up cheap if not. Ye what i was saying is if i drop the arms down id have more space to fit a longer/lower thread to drop the pan down more, so in turn i might get away with the spring on now rather even shorter ones.

    How do you know how far to move the arm down?
  22. #22
    mate one of my old vtr's sat about as low as a fag packet on the front

    14inch wheels with 50profile tyres 60mm springs job done.
  23. #23
    you can move the arm down as far as you want in theroy. Realy dropping it by an inch or so then inverting it would be good. if you pushed it dow then ran the same size main spring with 4" helper it would be better so you would not jump springs and the helper would compress to about half inch once fitted.
  24. #24
    Im getting some of these made up...


  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Davo106 View Post
    Im getting some of these made up...


    Dav hows yours sitting soooo low. If anyone needs pointers I thought you'd of been the boy to ask.

    Low Saxos ftw

    Tom

  26. #26
    Personally i think he's overthinking it all...

    Sure its probably safer to plan it all out but im just on gaz coilovers with 5.5 springs instead of 6.5. Everything else is the same... Although i am getting chassis notched and ARB and droplinks removed next time i can be arsed going to see my mechanic.
  27. #27
    tbh im keeping the car for awhile i think so just want to do things the best i can. If i had a cheap 1L then tbh all i would do is some fk's or something remove the helpers & be done with it. Tbh theres not as much work as i thought.

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Davo106 View Post
    Im getting some of these made up...

    what work have they had done to them? just look to have the arms dropped as Aaron said & some reainforcment/bracing between the hub & strut upright?
  28. #28
    i cant help you lol BUT Lucky Strikes are the best cigs ever!!! Good choice


    That is all
  29. #29
    Is that fag packet pic even that low? I was washing my car today and it look about the same lowness as that fag packet, the rears of the skirts were much lower. Im down 60/80.
  30. #30
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by db_sax View Post
    Is that fag packet pic even that low? I was washing my car today and it look about the same lowness as that fag packet, the rears of the skirts were much lower. Im down 60/80.
    thats the front not the back, tbh its only about 70mm front 80mm rear. Thats on 15's. Id like it down atleast another 20mm on the front!
  31. #31
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by blackvtrt View Post
    thats the front not the back, tbh its only about 70mm front 80mm rear. Thats on 15's. Id like it down atleast another 20mm on the front!
    Drop it another 50mm slam some 13'' wheels on it. Job done

    Tom
  32. #32
    imo... the best and the cheapest way would to buy a longer packet of fags
  33. #33
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by samueljonburgess View Post
    imo... the best and the cheapest way would to buy a longer packet of fags
    Yeah that's a good idea. Buy some superkings (lenght of a lampost) your sorted then.

    Tom

  34. #34
    Air ride or hydraulics. Job done no messing with all this custom crap. Just put a splitter on the front and it'll be lower that the fags.
  35. #35
    This is how high i am on the front so you can reference: