How many Nm do i tighten my headbolts to?

27th February 2010, 21:01

as tittle says, im fitting a 106 s1 rallye head on to my vtr and need to know how much to tighten them up by, also what order do i do them up in
cheers

27th February 2010, 21:05

i just did a search and found this reply to the same questions ome one else asked is this advise correct

"torque them firstly all to 20nm then a further 240 degrees turn.

i've not done an 8v myself but generally sequence is to start off on a middle bolt and sort of draw a big spiral as you go...

Code:

8 - 4 - 1 - 5 - 9
7 - 3 - 2 - 6 - 10

if that makes sense?"

27th February 2010, 23:42

this is the correct way, it is for a mk2 vtr engine but all the 8V engines are the same torque + Degree settings

Obviously make your way through the stage's, (im sure you know how it goes)

28th February 2010, 01:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom5190

this is the correct way, it is for a mk2 vtr engine but all the 8V engines are the same torque + Degree settings

Obviously make your way through the stage's, (im sure you know how it goes)

oh ok cool so i tighten them up to 20Nm then go back and tighten them 120 degrees then repeat the process one more time? ive never changed a head before and its a bit scary lol

28th February 2010, 01:24

20Nm

cast block - all 120 degrees, then all again 120 degrees < eg VTR
alloy block - all 240 degrees

28th February 2010, 01:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steffrallye

20Nm

alloy block - all 120 degrees, then all again 120 degrees
cast block - all 240 degrees < eg VTR

so i can tighten them up 240 degrees in one go then?

thanks for your help guys, much appreciated

28th February 2010, 09:25

In the Haynes manual it says:

8 valve CAST BLOCK - 20 nm then two stages of 120 deg
8 valve ALLOY BLOCK- 20nm then one stage of 240 deg

16Valve - 20 nm then one stage of 260 deg

28th February 2010, 09:30

Doing the angle tightening is terrifying, you think you will snap the bolts or something... but ytou wont they are "stretch" bolts

20nm tightens them up quite a lot and then the 120 degree turns twice is insane, dont be scred though, just turn it lol

28th February 2010, 10:43

Tighten them all to 20nm first.
Then tighten them all by 120 degrees
Then tighten them all another 120 degrees (will most probly feel like there going to snap on this stage but as said above they won't)

28th February 2010, 12:12

I made a little thing from a an old CD to measure degrees (put your socket extension through the middle of the CD and turn to the mark drawn on the CD). Might help in the heat of the battle mate!

28th February 2010, 17:25

sorry put it in the wrong way round lol, edited

the two steps of 120 on the cast is just to help ease the tighten to stop the cast cracking

28th February 2010, 19:48

thanks everyone for your replies i think im gonna have to whip the rocker cover back off as i fitted the head and inlet today i did them to 20Nm i was like surely they shouldnt be this tight lol so i might have to tighten them abit more, i can get the engine to turn over and there is fuel coming through but it isnt starting so i think its not sparking properly there are a couple connectors that arent connected to anything so this must be causing the problem, ive taken a few photos ill get them up in a sec to see if anyone can help

28th February 2010, 19:51

so you tightened the head to 20Nm and tried to start it !? What about the further 240degrees tighteneing ?!

EPIC fail ?

28th February 2010, 21:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by raunchz

so you tightened the head to 20Nm and tried to start it !? What about the further 240degrees tighteneing ?!

EPIC fail ?

i did go further than 20 Nm just not sure how much by tho

28th February 2010, 22:01

The tightening of the head is key to maximise the life of the headgasket and stop it going quickly.

Wasn't the idea of the thread to tell you what spec to do them up?

Did you guess at the angles or just do 20nm and a bit?

It's just 20nm and 240degrees is pretty tight tbh!!

28th February 2010, 22:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by raunchz

The tightening of the head is key to maximise the life of the headgasket and stop it going quickly.

Wasn't the idea of the thread to tell you what spec to do them up?

Did you guess at the angles or just do 20nm and a bit?

It's just 20nm and 240degrees is pretty tight tbh!!

yea i realise i messed up a bit, i put the pics up on my thread, i set my torque wrench to 20Nm and tightened it up untillt he wrench clicked but the bolts were still turning slightly i wasnt 100% sure if the torque wrench just clicks and lets go when it reaches 20Nm or it just clicks but also lets you tighten up further if you get what i mean, im sure they are just at 20Nm at the mo so tomorrow ill do the extra 240 degrees, and a 240 degree turn is just less than a 3/4 turn isnt it? so ill turn it 90 degrees then ill turn it 2/3's of another 90 degrees (60 degrees)

28th February 2010, 23:02

I'd do them up 120 degrees each in a spiral pattern working inside out.

Then do another 120degrees.

Just use a protractor or something if you can visualise the degrees your turning the headbolt. Fingers crossed it's not buggered already from trying to start it.

I've replied to the pics in your thread, I hope it helps. You timed it up okay?

1st March 2010, 00:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by raunchz

I'd do them up 120 degrees each in a spiral pattern working inside out.

Then do another 120degrees.

Just use a protractor or something if you can visualise the degrees your turning the headbolt. Fingers crossed it's not buggered already from trying to start it.

I've replied to the pics in your thread, I hope it helps. You timed it up okay?

yea the head was set at tdc as well as my block, bores 1 and 4 were at the top and 2 and 3 at the bottom and the hole on the pulley was lined up with the hole in the head

cheers for your help ill let you know how it goes tomorrow when i have a second go at it