16v furio?

11th March 2010, 08:46

there was a question on here a few days ago about the c2 furio head on the saxo bottom end....

if the head bolts lined up with the bottom end what else would i need to make it work??

new manifold
the ecu of the c2?

11th March 2010, 09:19

Is the C2 furio head 16v then i guess?

11th March 2010, 09:22

The c2 iirc is a jp4 and has bigger valves than a j4 making the issue of needing the pistons pocketed worse

11th March 2010, 09:24

so i would need all the c2 internals?

11th March 2010, 09:24

and apparantly adam

means i would have to sell the cam tho....

11th March 2010, 09:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by samueljonburgess

so i would need all the c2 internals?

Be easier to just fit the whole 16v engine man

11th March 2010, 09:27

Isn't the c2 furio an 8v?

Could just go with a saxo 8v

11th March 2010, 09:28

on here the other day a bloke said they where 16v, but i could just go vtr but thats cheatin lol

i cant be bothere to do a whole engine change

11th March 2010, 09:31

Yeah, would be far easier swapping the whole engine. it's cheaper and you get a stronger bottom end.

11th March 2010, 09:33

ts not from a furio, theres 3 of them which are 1.4 16v http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/specs/...spx?model=1148

there all "stop and start"

11th March 2010, 09:33

the c2 furio isn't a 16v, althoguh they do do a 1.4 16v c2

11th March 2010, 09:33

i was writiung that last comment before you replied lol

11th March 2010, 09:34

A quick google confirms the furio is an 8v.

An engine conversion is easier to do than pocketing pistons, sorting water galleries, switching cams over etc

The c2gt,c2vts are 16v 1.6 and the c2vtr is an 8v 1.6 and the furio is a 8v 1.4

EDIT just seen the link, god there are a lot of different c2s.

If you want a bigger engine fit a saxo vts/gti engine

11th March 2010, 09:36

ill just get mine mapped will save alot of fuckin about

....

its alrite ive been ill so ive been in bed past 2 days so had to much time to think haha

11th March 2010, 09:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by samueljonburgess

ill just get mine mapped will save alot of fuckin about

....

its alrite ive been ill so ive been in bed past 2 days so had to much time to think haha

Depends on whether the engine spec warrants a remap, could be wasted money for a generic remap.

If you want certain gains, 75bhp->120bhp then 16v is the way, would only cost you a shade more than a generic remap!

11th March 2010, 09:44

its got all the bits i think

cam,cda airbox,vtr inlet mani,4-2-1 mani,straight pipes

anythin else i could do before a map?

11th March 2010, 09:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by samueljonburgess

its got all the bits i think

cam,cda airbox,vtr inlet mani,4-2-1 mani,straight pipes

anythin else i could do before a map?

Sounds good to go! You got a vernier to tweak the timing when it gets mapped up?

If you can, try and get a before and after dyno run done with a printout so you can see what they've done (power and torque wise)

11th March 2010, 09:51

no i havnt yet its on the list but lost my job

so everythin is on pause

and ive had it done with out a map and its runnin 87.3 bhp

11th March 2010, 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by samueljonburgess

no i havnt yet its on the list but lost my job

so everythin is on pause

and ive had it done with out a map and its runnin 87.3 bhp

87 is a cracking result tbh, what was your afr like during that run? You got a copy of the dyno print out?

It might not be worth a remap if you've got a mild'ish cam?

11th March 2010, 09:58

its runnin very lean

and now its got the bigger inlet manifold on it it can only be worse....

fingers crossed 100bhp ftw

11th March 2010, 10:03

how much torque did you get on that run matey ???

11th March 2010, 10:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by samueljonburgess

its runnin very lean

and now its got the bigger inlet manifold on it it can only be worse....

fingers crossed 100bhp ftw

As a temporary measure could try a bigger fpr to help things out?

If it's running lean then definitely get a remap, just make sure it's a live one on a dyno not a generic map put on in a garage

11th March 2010, 10:05

i duno mate ive got the print out ill put it up later

and ye iam guna get it done on a rolling road at sanspeed

and what do you mean fpr??

11th March 2010, 10:09

if you get a decent remap they'll sort that fueling right out , shud make everything runa bit smoother, also if you really wanted to you could get it mapped on 99 octane fuel , it would run even better tehn , though 99 tesco fuel is like 117 a litre so it depends if you can afford it

11th March 2010, 11:39

not really lol

i dont like the supermarket fuel either the car seems to drink it

11th March 2010, 11:58

yeahh.. but it depends how you drive it lol .. actually just that fuel alone if you take off your battery terminal and tehn back on after filling up 99 RON .. ecu advances the timing by 2%

11th March 2010, 11:59

i used to use it all the time cos it was cheaper... but then i get about 5 miles less than iff i use shell

11th March 2010, 12:07

Yeahh .. i think shells 98 or something.. v power yeah ?? thats why on evo's and scoobs .. you can only put 98+ octane fuel in it because there mapped to run on that .. if you run it on standard it will drop like 20bhp and can mess up the engine a bit

11th March 2010, 12:10

no i dont use high octane its only a 1.4 saxo lol

the only gain i got when i put high octane was a few more pops and bangs

once its runnin properly and iam earnin some money again i mite try it see if it makes a diffrence

11th March 2010, 12:43

i use it if i'm going out for a cruise or sumthing.. engine runs alot sweeter in higer rev range as the higher octane prevents engine knock.. also i find it has a bit better throttle response, it actually does more mpg IF you drive it normally lol.. but its more expensive soooo....

11th March 2010, 14:32

All the fuel comes from the same refineries. Tesco dont refine their own petrol. shell just have additives and stuff in the fuel

11th March 2010, 15:30

the 1.4 16v engine which I have has vvt and 90bhp as standard but due to it being multiplex and flyby wire there are varying options to sort those problems out. Cheap option is bang enigne in get it remapped on standard ecu or expensive go full standalone with aux outputs to control vvt.

Not really worth it unless you are going shove a load of boost down it

11th March 2010, 15:41

ill get mine mapped

see how it goes with it

11th March 2010, 16:00

its not only that you need to sort engine mount out, throttle body adapter, different injectors and change to the old style coilpack setup. Then you ecu remap via chipwizards, internals of the 1.4 16v are different aswell way different.

Cost of engine on average now is between £200 - £600, then all the above parts £100 remap @ £350/£400 its not a cheap option to go for when in reality after all being said and done you will see maybe 110bhp tops.

11th March 2010, 16:03

i wont bother then it was just an idea while i was layin in bed lol

ill get mine mapped then lighten and balance everythin see how we go

11th March 2010, 22:02

thats the print out sorry not a very good picture of it

11th March 2010, 22:37

Looks to be a 14.5ish afr?

Should benefit nicely from a remap with roughly a 13.5/13:1 afr!

12th March 2010, 11:18

its not bad for what it is

good little toy once stripped down and everythin balanced etc

12th March 2010, 11:33

sorry to ask this but whats fpr and afr?

12th March 2010, 11:47

fpr is Fuel Pressure Regulator

afr is air fuel ratio