How not To Lower Rear Suspension

  1. #1
    First of all the adjustment pocedure involves removing the torsion bars, setting both trailing arms to the correct height then re inserting the bars. ensuring the splines are properly engaged, sounds easy rite? lol

    Heres a simple way to do it in 10 steps

    1. Juch the back end up puting axel stands under the sides of the car.

    2.remove the wheels ( loosen the wheel nuts before you jack the car up).

    3. then remove the anti- roll bar plates, one on each side then remove the anti-roll bar.

    4. remove the damper and fit a dummy damper ( height you want to lower).

    5. Remove the cover from the torsion bars ( on both sides).

    6.Remove the driverside torsion bar and turn it ANTI-CLOCKWISE one spline and reinsert.

    7. remove the pasengerside torsion bar and turn it one turn CLOCKWISE.

    8. refit Your antiroll bar now and check everythings tight.

    9. Now You can change your dampers, i stongly recomend you do.

    10. refit wheels and drop off the jacks and stand back and admire your work.

    This is only a tread for lowering the rear end not adjusting the rear break sensor i think its called whitch activates more the more you lower the rear end.


    Click Thanks Please
    1 user thanked this post:
  2. #2
    aren't you mean to remove the bars and move the arm, not the bar itself?!
  3. #3
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by chinkostu View Post
    aren't you mean to remove the bars and move the arm, not the bar itself?!
    so i believe
  4. #4
    This is the DANGEROUS way of lowering the rear, do NOT do it using this method!
  5. #5
    LOL why should everyone use the thanks button for screwing up their rear beam?

    ill change the title for you
    9 users thanked this post: , , , , , , , ,
  6. #6
    Clicks method FTL
  7. #7
    lol ryan
  8. #8
    saw that he'd taken time to write it up and started to doubt myself,thought i'd been doing it wrong all this time lol
  9. #9
    why is it dangerous ? i know its bad so i never really bothered why
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by mandyslover70 View Post
    saw that he'd taken time to write it up and started to doubt myself,thought i'd been doing it wrong all this time lol
    Nope the clicks method is widely belived to be what often can lead to premature trailing arm bearing failure (people not fitting the ARB plate properly letting in water to), and then fecked stub pins, and generally mean that the suspension isnt working as good as it can be with this method.
  11. #11
    maybe the OP is a secret agent for axle refurbishers to boost their sales lol
  12. #12
    Someone just bought the Haynes Extreme Citroen Saxo Manual.

    Cutz
  13. #13
    Should be no mention of this clockwise and anti clockwise
  14. #14
    "simply remove the torsion bar" lolololololololololololol and more lololololololol.....so wheres the mention of beat torsion bar repeatedly,attach puller and beat torsion bar, apply copious amounts of wd40 whilst puller is attached and then beat it with large hammer and drift
  15. #15
    These are the exact words used by Haynes in there Extreme Manual; Guide for lowering the rear.

    1. Jack up the rear of the car and remove the rear wheels.
    2.Remove the anti-roll bar plates (One on each side) and remove anti-roll bar.
    3. Remove the damper unit and fit an adjustable dummy damper (Which is set at required height) to the car.
    4. Unscrew and remove the cover from the torsion bars (One on each side).
    5. One at a time (Driver's side first) remove the torsion bar, turn it anti-clockwise one spline and re-insert it. On the passenger side, the torsion bar needs to be turned one spline clockwise. Refit all your bits including the anti roll bar
    6. Now you can fit your new dampers.


    Similar? LOL

    Cutz
  16. #16
    This is only a tread for lowering the rear end not adjusting the rear break sensor whitch activates more the more you lower the rear end. if you do not adjust it,

    which is what i said in the first place

    doi
  17. #17
    That's not the point, you should never lower using splines/notches method as you'll just risk damaging your rear beam.
  18. #18
    On the plus side, it's only a 1.1 so rear beams are only about 30p
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SaxSpeed View Post
    5. Remove the cover from the torsion bars ( on both sides).
    Lovely detail, would love to know what these covers are supposed to look like

  20. #20
    its funny how most the garages i asked around me use this method, and say one spline is about 40mm drop lol
    1 user thanked this post:
  21. #21
    my tutor at college worked for pug and did 106's usin this method, said the whole idea of it fucking up the beam was rubish
    1 user thanked this post:
  22. #22
    see why he dont work for pug now
  23. #23
    so why is it dangerous? ok it may increase wear n stuff but why is it dangerous?? thats all i want to know!!! cheers guys!
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by jayyoung View Post
    so why is it dangerous? ok it may increase wear n stuff but why is it dangerous?? thats all i want to know!!! cheers guys!
    stress across the torsion bars can mean it will either break the washer or the bar
    and that means the arm will be free of the rest of the axle
    the damage to the stub pin isnt the bigger issue
    either a worn pin causing camber will stress it or incorect lowering
  25. #25
    I see people mention need to adjust rear brake sensor but nobody says where this is located and how to adjust, anyone got the info?
  26. #26
    this way works so .............
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SaxSpeed View Post
    this way works so .............
    LMFAO!

    My little sister cries alot, so il glue her eyes and mouth shut. It works sooo??...
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sm02_saxo View Post
    LMFAO!

    My little sister cries alot, so il glue her eyes and mouth shut. It works sooo??...
    well tecnicaly that would be child abuse and there for i woundnt really say it "Works"

    When it hapens to one of my cars ill belive it but my car n my vtr i had for 2 years was fine, hink its just a load of rubish and why would all the technitions at my college and the lecturers say its fine if its not

    pft so calm yourself
  29. #29
    Baffles me why people cut corners and have their rear beams lowered by total monkeys. I've yet to see a car sit level which has been done the 'clicks' way.

    For around £40 - £50, you can have someone reputable do the job properly, i.e with the beam sitting at nigh on the height you want (give or take a couple of mm) and without the risk of premature failure due to braying the trailing arms off.
  30. #30
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sm02_saxo View Post
    My little sister cries alot, so il glue her eyes and mouth shut. It works sooo??...
    That made me LOL !
  31. #31
    lol love the title
  32. #32
    Oh dear god.
  33. #33
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SaxSpeed View Post

    When it hapens to one of my cars ill belive it but my car n my vtr i had for 2 years was fine, hink its just a load of rubish and why would all the technitions at my college and the lecturers say its fine if its not

    pft so calm yourself
    Monkeys
  34. #34
    I'm sure the technicians and lecturers are all Cit/Pug specialists

    OH WAIT NO
  35. #35
    one of the problems with the notches method is that you pull the trailing arm half off and then rotate it. unless you keep it accurately parallel to the stub pin then as you rotate it you'll be putting stress on the bearing that is still on the pin, you'll also do this as you wiggle it around trying to get the end of the torsion bar into the beam at the other end. Then to top it all, as you're smacking the arm back on, again unless its 100% parallel you'll catch the bearing on the end of the stub pin and then hitting it really hard is gonna fuck that bearing as well. PLUS you disturb the seal between the arm and the beam, which i wouldnt do unless i was going to take it off, clean it, apply plenty more grease and put it back on

    So now you've ruined your beam, the bearings will collapse and the seals will allow water in, ruining the stub pin, resulting in excessive camber and affecting the handling.

    i also know for a fact that there are places that use this method and the end result is that they dont leave themselves proper access to the ends of the torsion bars, cant get the washers and bolts in properly and so just leave them out
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  36. #36
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by roberg919 View Post
    lol love the title
    was a good edit wasnt it
  37. #37
    LOL...
  38. #38
    oh i forgot, the notches method also means you have only 2 or 3 ride height options, whereas the proper method means you can pretty much set it to whatever height you want
  39. #39
    one thing i will say though, is that if the notches method is used, as long as the torsion bar is in the correct place and you dont have to use excessive force to locate it in the beam, there's no reason why the torsion bars would break. For them to break you'd have to have just fucked it up completely
  40. #40
    to the first point: how the F, does removing the torsion bars, twisting them and re inserting change the ride height at all? doesnt the trailing arm just drop without the torsion bar or damper attached and not supported by a jack?
  41. #41
    well ur suporting it from it hanging by the dummy damper
  42. #42
    also why would you "1 SPLINE " on one side and "1 TURN" on the other side ???
  43. #43
    So rather than keeping moaning about someones opinion on how to do a job why doesnt somebody explain there method for lowering it?
    1 user thanked this post:
  44. #44
    You remove the torsion bars from the arms and leave the trailing arm bearing and seal undisturbed.