Ok i noticed that the current guide for this is missing all the images. So ive made a breif one with pics on how to remove the strut free from the droplinks, tracking rods, driveshaft and wishbones. Also Removing the damper and spring separate from the strut.
Tools:
17mm Spanner
17mm Socket
Wrachet
Hammer
Scissor Jack
Trolly Jack
WD40
19mm Socket
Cable Ties
Plumber plyers or molegrips
Torx Keys for the brake disc if neccesary
13mm Socket
30mm Socket
Extra person to step on the Brakes
1. Start with loosening the wheel nuts on each side, not all the way off just loose so you can do the rest by hand.
2. Place the jack in the jacking location and start to jack up!
3. If your using hand tool youll need someone to step on the brake at this point - 30mm Socket over the Driveshaft nut and undo
5. Undo the 2 wheel disc torx while someone is on the brakes
4. 19mm Socket on the Droplink - Airgun=straight off - Handtools, theres a nut on the back of the droplink arm on the ball joint you can grip with plumber plyers or molegrips, then undo.
5. Tracking rod - Undo, maybe 16mm or 17mm
6. To get the droplink out, get a scissor jack or trolly jack under the hub or disc and jack it up untill the droplink slides out or taps out with a hammer.
7. Next is the wishbone balljoint retaining nut n bolt. Both 17mm on mine though may differ, will need a socket and wratchet on both or a spanner etc.
8. Tap the wishbone bolt out that youve just undone
9. Undo the caliper (2 x 19mm's on mine again) then cable tie the caliper up through a hole up in the arch somewhere or wherever suitable. 2 x 19mm Located here:
10. Loosen the drivesaft by tappin it with a hammer
11. Now with an extension bar for a wratched put it ontop of the wishbone, to the side of the ball joint and give it a good hammertime. It wont all the way out at the moment unless you proper push it down, dosent matter if it dosent come out though.
This is how far it will come out:
12. Now supporting the strut from underneather the hub or holding it up on the droplink arm, undo the 3 x 13mm on the top strut which holds the topmount in:
13. Now repeat steps 11 and 10 and the strut should come free!
14. At this point get some spring compressors and grip the spring and tighten to compress, be very carefull at this that its got a good grip on the sprng (no pics to show here as my springs dont compress much)
15. Undo the top nut which is in the middle of the top mount (this pic shows where it was when it was fitted to the car:
16. All will now come away from the strut and damper etc. At this point release the spring compressor, just incase you step on it and the spring springs open.
17. With the springs and top mounts off you will now see there is a threaded cap with 3 holes in the top. You can just use a screwdriver and a hammer to free this up with WD40 or Rust Breaker shizzle. Also ideal to fit a new one when refitting as it could get hard to undo again in the future with chizzled holes in the top.
18. Cap off and pull the damper out, as simple as that:
[Haynes]Refitting is a reversale of this procedure[/Haynes Manual]
Tools:
17mm Spanner
17mm Socket
Wrachet
Hammer
Scissor Jack
Trolly Jack
WD40
19mm Socket
Cable Ties
Plumber plyers or molegrips
Torx Keys for the brake disc if neccesary
13mm Socket
30mm Socket
Extra person to step on the Brakes
1. Start with loosening the wheel nuts on each side, not all the way off just loose so you can do the rest by hand.
2. Place the jack in the jacking location and start to jack up!
3. If your using hand tool youll need someone to step on the brake at this point - 30mm Socket over the Driveshaft nut and undo
5. Undo the 2 wheel disc torx while someone is on the brakes
4. 19mm Socket on the Droplink - Airgun=straight off - Handtools, theres a nut on the back of the droplink arm on the ball joint you can grip with plumber plyers or molegrips, then undo.
5. Tracking rod - Undo, maybe 16mm or 17mm
6. To get the droplink out, get a scissor jack or trolly jack under the hub or disc and jack it up untill the droplink slides out or taps out with a hammer.
7. Next is the wishbone balljoint retaining nut n bolt. Both 17mm on mine though may differ, will need a socket and wratchet on both or a spanner etc.
8. Tap the wishbone bolt out that youve just undone
9. Undo the caliper (2 x 19mm's on mine again) then cable tie the caliper up through a hole up in the arch somewhere or wherever suitable. 2 x 19mm Located here:
10. Loosen the drivesaft by tappin it with a hammer
11. Now with an extension bar for a wratched put it ontop of the wishbone, to the side of the ball joint and give it a good hammertime. It wont all the way out at the moment unless you proper push it down, dosent matter if it dosent come out though.
This is how far it will come out:
12. Now supporting the strut from underneather the hub or holding it up on the droplink arm, undo the 3 x 13mm on the top strut which holds the topmount in:
13. Now repeat steps 11 and 10 and the strut should come free!
14. At this point get some spring compressors and grip the spring and tighten to compress, be very carefull at this that its got a good grip on the sprng (no pics to show here as my springs dont compress much)
15. Undo the top nut which is in the middle of the top mount (this pic shows where it was when it was fitted to the car:
16. All will now come away from the strut and damper etc. At this point release the spring compressor, just incase you step on it and the spring springs open.
17. With the springs and top mounts off you will now see there is a threaded cap with 3 holes in the top. You can just use a screwdriver and a hammer to free this up with WD40 or Rust Breaker shizzle. Also ideal to fit a new one when refitting as it could get hard to undo again in the future with chizzled holes in the top.
18. Cap off and pull the damper out, as simple as that:
[Haynes]Refitting is a reversale of this procedure[/Haynes Manual]
