New hub time ?

  1. #1
    ever since i put my new alloys on with 20mm spacers and longer bolts it has become a real effort getting the bolts on and off.

    anyway, today i took it to the garage to have some new brakes fitted and he is unable to get the two front wheels on due to the threads being fucked in the hubs.

    i know tapering is a possibilty but would I be just aswell getting two second hand hubs?

    and does anyone have a rough price for getting two second hand hubs and also getting them fitted?
  2. #2
    could try and helicoil them - otherwise probably best to get new hubs.

    http://www.106parts.com/s2/page1.php...4=89&part=7618
  3. #3
    thanks, im guessing its probably better getting a whole strut with the hub already attached?

    i have a feeling its my own fault, as im sure the thread on the new bolts i added were fine thread where as the vtr ones are just standard.


    am i able to use any strut off say a quiky, AX, other saxo's or does it have to be gti/vtr/vts as the brakes are different?
  4. #4
    If i'm right in thinking VTRs / VTS have the hub built onto the strut so you have to buy it as one piece. Had a quote off citroen a couple of weeks ago they said 480.00, so try and get a second hand one if you can. Don't know whether AX or GTI's would fit though.
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by addyjj View Post
    If i'm right in thinking VTRs / VTS have the hub built onto the strut so you have to buy it as one piece. Had a quote off citroen a couple of weeks ago they said 480.00, so try and get a second hand one if you can. Don't know whether AX or GTI's would fit though.
    The hub simply press-fits into the wheel bearing, so you can replace the hub without needing a new strut
  6. #6
    i need a new hub, one of my wheel nuts wont srew fully in. ya can get them for 50 quid new think. does anyone know what bhp a w reg vtr is 90 or 98?
  7. #7
    raced a 57 reg focus 1.8 zetec from standstill mate drivin focus and beat it. only got pipercross induction and put vts backbox on vtr. was wonderin what bhp its pushin out wreg
  8. #8
    ok. so all i need are two front hubs ?

    going to the garage today to asses the damage. hopefully get it sorted asap.

    walking to work this morning
  9. #9
    Take a good look at chapter 10 in the Haynes manual. That may give you an idea of whether you can tackle the job yourself and save yourself some pennies.
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  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by vtrmann View Post
    does anyone know what bhp a w reg vtr is 90 or 98?
    There is a tab at the top called Search. Use it. If its too much trouble, walk away from the computer now. And if you have a question, don't hi-jack someone else's thread with an unrelated question.

    p.s. If your powers of observation are good, the answer is here.
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  11. #11
    i dont have a haynes atm.

    spoke to the garage. he says the rear bolts on the wheels arent tightening fully, same with the drivers front, and the passener side is only just on but bolts are loose.

    how simple is it to replace the hubs? how much in labour could i be looking at for four hubs if i supply the hubs?

    ive got 10 days till mot.
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mike_420 View Post
    ever since i put my new alloys on with 20mm spacers and longer bolts it has become a real effort getting the bolts on and off.

    anyway, today i took it to the garage to have some new brakes fitted and he is unable to get the two front wheels on due to the threads being fucked in the hubs.

    i know tapering is a possibilty but would I be just aswell getting two second hand hubs?

    and does anyone have a rough price for getting two second hand hubs and also getting them fitted?
    Nice, Crossthreaded them, so that means some new hubs yes, probably easier and cheaper to buy new struts so £80 for a pair of struts if your lucky + £100 labour.
  13. #13
    yeah. and what about the rears?

    im never gonna use cheap aftermarket bolts again, think ill put my standard vtr's on when i get the hubs done
  14. #14
    I have the very same problem, i made the mistake of buying 2 full struts off a 106, when i went to put them on the hub type was wrong and the driveshaft wouldnt fit. AND the bearings were nackered so i lost about £120. Do it right 1st time i say.
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mike_420 View Post
    yeah. and what about the rears?

    im never gonna use cheap aftermarket bolts again, think ill put my standard vtr's on when i get the hubs done
    AND the rears are buggered??? well cheapest option would be a new beam so your looking at about £150 Second hand.
  16. #16
    just buy a set of 4 new hubs, fit them and learn your lesson. I'd put new wheel bearings on the front while your at it too.

    Don't get involved with changing over beams and struts -it'll just end in more trouble
  17. #17
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by raunchz View Post
    just buy a set of 4 new hubs, fit them and learn your lesson. I'd put new wheel bearings on the front while your at it too.

    Don't get involved with changing over beams and struts -it'll just end in more trouble
    I have a phobia of hub pullers Lol, when i was young, one took me on a flying lesson across the workshop pmsl. but then again if your putting new bearings in the struts have to come off anyway and iirc bearings are about £20 a piece?? so may end up cheaper for the new hubs on the rear and some new (s/h) struts on the front with some lowering springs.
  18. #18
    the only reason i put these other wheels on in the first place was for the mot, so first thing im gonna do is get new tyres on the vtr alloys and use the standard bolts.

    i dont want this hastle again, so is it as simple as buying four hubs, getting the garage to remove the bolt, and press it out/ press in new one ?
  19. #19
    right im gonna get this sorted this week hopefully.

    is it a simple case of buying 4 new/second hand front and rear hubs, with bearings. removing mine and replace with new hubs?

    if i source the hubs, will it take the garage long to fit them any idea on price?

    is it just remove the wheels, brakes, hub bolt then remove hub

    as a last resort i could get my uncle to come through and have a look at it as hes a mechanic, but will he need any specific tools and can it be done on a driveway?
  20. #20
    Yes

    Make sure you buy the right wheel bearings to suit your driveshafts, might be wise to let the garage buy these?

    Time wise I'm not sure on, maybe 2 hours for the rears? And then 3-4 hours for the fronts?

    So say 5hours at £60 an hour ish?

    I know a member on here had to get it done and he didn't get change from £500 iirc (including all the parts)
  21. #21
    thats pretty expensive, i guess its not as simple as i was hoping.

    i know its my own fault, but when wheel bolts are advertised to fit saxo/106 then you expect not to have any problems.

    when i get this sorted im gonna keep standard wheels/bolts on
  22. #22
    raunchz- do you think there is any point looking into re-tapering the threads?

    as that would be a hell of alot easier
  23. #23
    same also happend to me , but i only needed one, i went to the local scrappy for one, i had to buy the hole strut , was about 30 quid...
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mike_420 View Post
    raunchz- do you think there is any point looking into re-tapering the threads?

    as that would be a hell of alot easier
    Depends on how bad they are tbh.

    I think (you'll have to check and confirm this) that the standard wheel bolts are M12x1.25?

    You could run a tap through them, and then put the wheels on and torque up the standard bolts and see if they torque up fine - I'd look for something around 90-100Nm. If they torque up fine then you should be fine, but will depend if you've buggered all the threads in the hub or just 1, or two etc. but going on the fact you've probably tried to use say M12x1.5 bolts I'd guess they are all buggered.

    Might be safer and cheaper to get all new hubs, as opposed to getting 16x helicoils done.

    Ring up a garage tomorrow and talk to them about prices.
  25. #25
    That's exactly what this other person did, tried to use bolts that were advertised for a 106/saxo and buggered all 4 hubs - £500ish later he was sorted.
  26. #26
    well the two fronts need done ive been told, and he recommended the rears get done for safety

    so would i be better off getting two front struts with hubs, and two rear hubs?

    or just buy four hubs?
  27. #27
    Thanks, i have a few options atm.

    buy 4 hubs second hand and get the garage to fit them
    try get my uncle to come through and fit - could be over a week tho
    attempt to re-taper them myself

    on top of this i need four new tyres as i dont want to put my new alloys on with these bolts again. so sticking to the vtr alloys



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by raunchz View Post
    That's exactly what this other person did, tried to use bolts that were advertised for a 106/saxo and buggered all 4 hubs - £500ish later he was sorted.
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mike_420 View Post
    well the two fronts need done ive been told, and he recommended the rears get done for safety

    so would i be better off getting two front struts with hubs, and two rear hubs?

    or just buy four hubs?
    Depends on how much you want to mess about with it?

    Could just fit the other struts, or swap over springs/dampers if your lowered etc.

    Or just drop it in the garage, tell them to replace all 4 hubs, give them the right wheels bolts and pay the big bill - at least your car will be safe and sorted and you'll know the wheel bolts are all fine. I wouldn't like a wheel to come off on the motorway.

    4 new hubs will be around £150-£200, second hand I'd guess £100 for 4? not a huge saving, the majority of the cost is labour
  29. #29
    Ok, ill try and source 4 hubs, call my uncle and if he's not able to fit them then ill get the garage to do it.

    Will he be able to do it on my driveway?
  30. #30
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mike_420 View Post
    Ok, ill try and source 4 hubs, call my uncle and if he's not able to fit them then ill get the garage to do it.

    Will he be able to do it on my driveway?
    He'll need a hub puller and pretty certain he'll need a press too
  31. #31
    secondhand rear hubs are hard to come by, when you get them off they usually pull the bearing to bits and thats integral with the hub, so you end up needing new rears. fronts aren't so much of a problem to be honest
  32. #32
    thanks for the help guys, i finally got round to getting the wheels off to see the damage for myself,

    had a look inside the hubs and the threads looked fine to me, so i tried screwing in a standard bolt, went in fine, tightened like normal, stuck the vtr wheel on and put all four bolts on, no problem.

    ive taken off all the aftermarket wheels, and put the standard ones on and they all tighten up like normal, so i presume it was my shitty bolts that came with the spacers.

    what id like to know is how do they test the wheel bolts for looseness?

    when i first took it for the mot all the bolts were as tight as they'd go but it still failed on the nearside wheel bolts being loose, even when i got it home they were on very tight.

    did the tester just presume the wheel bolts were loose because of the wheel wobble from having a 20mm spacer on one side?
  33. #33
    you torque them up using a torque wrench.

    I'd go for 90-100Nm - not sure what the torque is that Citroen state for them off the top of my head
  34. #34
    I could buy one for friday but is it essential?

    i dont understand how it still failed even though they were on very tight?

    the only thing i can think of is that he presumed it was loose bolts and wrote that down on the mot, where as it was only because i had one spacer on for the aftermarket wheel and on the other side just a steelie..
  35. #35
    a torque wrench is essential tbh - it should be in every diy'ers tool kit.

    Sounds like your old spacers where shite.

    God knows about the MOT situation, but just put the vtr wheels on, with vtr bolts torqued up to 8.5 M.daN (this is what Citroen quote - equates to 85Nm)
  36. #36
    thanks dude, much appreciated.

    if i do fit these aftermarket wheel again, im going to get a decent set of proper hub centric spacers and good bolts.

    but for now ill do as you said, keep the vtr wheels on, and ill pop out and buy a torque wrench.

    still a couple of things to get done before taking it back to garage, the headlights need ajusted as the beam is too high, easy to do with morettes?

    and the break load sensing valve is seized easy fix?
  37. #37
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mike_420 View Post
    thanks dude, much appreciated.

    if i do fit these aftermarket wheel again, im going to get a decent set of proper hub centric spacers and good bolts.

    but for now ill do as you said, keep the vtr wheels on, and ill pop out and buy a torque wrench.

    still a couple of things to get done before taking it back to garage, the headlights need ajusted as the beam is too high, easy to do with morettes?

    and the break load sensing valve is seized easy fix?
    I just have to loosen/tighten 3 8mm nuts to alter the height of my beams on the morettes - easy to do.

    Just take all the springs off, grease the mall up and put them back together. Make sure it moves nice and smoothly and the bias is correct.
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  38. #38
    Ok, ill have a look tomorrow, and ill hopefully have the car back on the road by the weekend