Important! : Vts Dying, battery light

29th May 2010, 14:39

Got 4 new tyres fitted the day after going in for 2, ended up buying a battery too as I thought my battery was duff.

Since I got the car over a week ago the batter light was on (car was running fine)

Did the wiring mod under the steering column as the p/s and fans weren't working, ( they both work now)

But today I went to drive the car home and it's dying, it'll drive along fine, then no power at all, dip the clutch and it'll rev but won;t drive,

I stopped the car left it for a few minutes, then it drove fine for about a mile and then did the same again.

I reversed the wiring mod but it's made no difference,

I'm swaying towards alternator.

What does everyone else think?

1 week into ownership and it's not looking hopefull for the vts.

29th May 2010, 14:46

definitely sounds as if its alternator problem if its a new battery, unless the new battery was duff? Try one you know is working possibly?

got a multimeter to test voltage across battery terminals?

29th May 2010, 14:52

voltage across with it running is only 12.4

alternator

£115 inc vat.

Is it worth checking the connections? or does it sound fucked?

29th May 2010, 14:58

Sound more like an earthing problem to me mate check your batt terminals and your engine and chassis ground connection are all ok. Is there lights when it dies or does all power go. If it electrical all power will go if mechanical the power should still be there even if very very dim had the same prob in my impreza couple of months back turned out to be chassis ground was loose

29th May 2010, 15:01

A car batt is only 12v mate so that sounds right unless you're on about you're altenator voltage

29th May 2010, 15:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodyemma

A car batt is only 12v mate so that sounds right unless you're on about you're altenator voltage

no, with it running it should be between 14-15 volts if all is well and it is making power correctly!

12.4V with engine on is too low

29th May 2010, 15:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxshepxx

voltage across with it running is only 12.4

alternator

£115 inc vat.

Is it worth checking the connections? or does it sound fucked?

Also as said below check connections going into your alternator, main ground etc etc for anything obvious, but shouldnt think it would be that if at one point it is okay and get steadily worse if you get me

29th May 2010, 16:49

buy a reconditioned alternator mate

29th May 2010, 17:33

Checked all cables, all seems okay.
Had a snoop about the forum too, Seems to be showing all the signs of alternator.

Sub and amp cuts out at high revs, and just before it looses power.

What I don't understand is, if I leave it for 10mins it'll drive fine for a mile or so.

1st June 2010, 18:48

New alternator fitted today.

Car behaves exactly the same.

It runs fine for 5 minutes then it dies when you put the foot down, it just bogs down and won't drive.

If you stop and try to hold the revs at 2k rpm it slowly gets lower and dies (cuts out)

Pulling my hair out now, what the hell is wrong with it?
Broken wire? lambda sensor, fuel pump?

Thanks again for any help.

1st June 2010, 18:49

sounds like fueling to me.

1st June 2010, 18:53

lambda or coil pack?

Nothings bloody cheap for a vts anyway.

2nd June 2010, 08:53

Going to check all the fuel pipes today.

I'm wondering if they crushed one of the metal pipes when it was in the garage getting tyres as they had rubber blocks in around the fuel filter and pipes.

2nd June 2010, 09:22

a continuity check between alternator and battery.

Put the multimeter on the positive terminal and on the big ring terminal of the alternator - the multimeter should beep if everything is okay.

Just sounds like the wires broke/corroded inbetween the alternator and the starter motor. I've had this with mine. I ended up pulling the loom out the car and replacing the whole wire.

2nd June 2010, 09:26

There is a 100% problem with your charging system if you only have 12.4volts at the battery with the engine running. Nothing to do with fueling!!

If you've replaced the alternator then pretty much has to be the wire between alternator and starter motor.

On the starter motor you have 2 large ring terminal and a very small ring terminal.

One large ring terminal is for a wire going from the alternator to the starter motor, the other large ring goes from the starter motor to the positive battery terminal (forget the small one)

2nd June 2010, 09:31

No worries mate.

I'll have a look the night.

2nd June 2010, 11:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxshepxx

No worries mate.

I'll have a look the night.

Yeah providing the voltage hasn't increased don't start changing stuff until you can get a healthy running voltage, as said above check the wiring, what voltage are you reading now by the way? Did the alternator help at all?

2nd June 2010, 20:56

Alternator has helped.

Seems to be charging okay.

I checked all the earths tonight and borrowed a coil pack.

Now when it drives it'll cough and splutter and die at junctions, it'll sometimes rev through the coughing and spluttering, mas soon as the clutch is depressed and I rev it, it'll rev no problem.

It's a problem that happens under load.

I'm almost certain it's some sort of fuelling problem but I dont know what.

2nd June 2010, 20:57

Also, I noticed, that before all this hassle when sitting at a steady pace, around the 60/70mph mark, the throttle would die for a split second, and the car would jerk.

Appreciate all the help and advice lads,

2nd June 2010, 20:59

And the eml has now come on.

2nd June 2010, 21:00

Could be a variety of things then.

So the battery voltage is 14+ when the engine is running?

Could be Map sensor then?

2nd June 2010, 21:02

raunchz, bit off topic, but what does the MAP sensor do?

2nd June 2010, 21:14

Get the fault code for your engine light and that may give you a good idea on the problem?

2nd June 2010, 21:17

Will get the code reader from work tomorrow.

I can't figure out if it's over or under fuelling.

It spits and pop's when holding the revs at 2500rpm,

2nd June 2010, 21:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Alex-

raunchz, bit off topic, but what does the MAP sensor do?

Basically just measures the pressure inside the inlet manifold - the ecu will use this and the throttle position sensor to determine the load that the engine is under.

Throttle body conversions can't really fit a map sensor, so the standalone Ecu will be mapped using just the throttle position sensor as an indication of load.

2nd June 2010, 21:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by raunchz

Basically just measures the pressure inside the inlet manifold - the ecu will use this and the throttle position sensor to determine the load that the engine is under.

Throttle body conversions can't really fit a map sensor, so the standalone Ecu will be mapped using just the throttle position sensor as an indication of load.

Ah right I see thanks alot raunchz

2nd June 2010, 22:01

Alex,

Raunchz is bang on, see here: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=241760

2nd June 2010, 22:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

Alex,

Raunchz is bang on, see here: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=241760

Where's my Thanks button when I need it

Done ->

It is worth noting in Bobs guide that an error code relating tobthw MAP sensor won't bring on a dash light - food for thought when trying to diagnose running problems

3rd June 2010, 10:40

Map/Maf/Lambda sensor.. could be a host of things until you get the reader on it, you probably wont know

3rd June 2010, 22:28

Bloody reader is fooked, had connection problems, so I resorted to the old vauxhall technique of unplugging sensors and running the car.

The only noticeable difference was running the car with the MAP sensor disconnected, it's revved much better, idled stupid, and drove half decent compared to before.

Think I'll order a map sensor and cross my fingers.

4th June 2010, 09:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxshepxx

Bloody reader is fooked, had connection problems, so I resorted to the old vauxhall technique of unplugging sensors and running the car.

The only noticeable difference was running the car with the MAP sensor disconnected, it's revved much better, idled stupid, and drove half decent compared to before.

Think I'll order a map sensor and cross my fingers.

bit of a cocked way to do it, but will eventually get you there

sounds like thats the one, would make sense too.
your running voltage back up to normal now?

4th June 2010, 13:31

Yeah voltage is as normal now,

map will be here by 6pm

4th June 2010, 13:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxshepxx

Yeah voltage is as normal now,

map will be here by 6pm

hopefully happy days mate!
Great to hear

4th June 2010, 18:32

Map sensor didn't turn up.

I removed my old one and cleaned it out with brake cleaner and electrical contact cleaner and it has made a massive improvement, It was full of dirt and oily rubbish.

I'll still fit the new one when it arrives, (hopefully tomorrow)

Took it out on a 2mile run which yesterday would of been undriveable, but now it's driving like normal, just had one small cough/splutter,

So yeah happy days, I think (fingers crossed) I've got to the bottom of it.

Can't thank you all enough for your help.

4th June 2010, 23:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxshepxx

Map sensor didn't turn up.

I removed my old one and cleaned it out with brake cleaner and electrical contact cleaner and it has made a massive improvement, It was full of dirt and oily rubbish.

I'll still fit the new one when it arrives, (hopefully tomorrow)

Took it out on a 2mile run which yesterday would of been undriveable, but now it's driving like normal, just had one small cough/splutter,

So yeah happy days, I think (fingers crossed) I've got to the bottom of it.

Can't thank you all enough for your help.

Its what the site is all about dude