Removing fuse box from the bay?

  1. #1
    What is needed and how much of a job is putting the fuses in bay behind the dash??

    I want to do this to tidy up the bay but im unsure of how much of a job it is. I know id need a new fuse block though and the wiring.
  2. #2
    Notbtoo hardca job really, if you take your time and did it logically then should be fine
  3. #3
    I've done mine and it wasn't too hard,
    But it depends entirely how good you are with wiring really
  4. #4
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Beaniemoo View Post
    I've done mine and it wasn't too hard,
    But it depends entirely how good you are with wiring really
    How long would it take?? How much in parts did it cost?
    What did you do with the plug that connects to fuse box?

    I really like how it looks all flush when get rid of everything on sides of bay.
  5. #5
    Thought your building a track car?
  6. #6
    Also is it possible to move the standard ecu into the car also using standard engine loom?
  7. #7
    Could someone put a link to the sort of fuse box thing and wire id need.
  8. #8
    Looking at doing this maybe tomorrow. Hows the best way of putting the wires into the car? Can they go in back through the wing? As there no holes in the bulkhead as ive used the one where the fuel line is for the return.
  9. #9
    I think you'll find some of the wires in the fusebox go into the cabin by going along the inside wing and in through a grommet by the door.

    If you trace the wires then you won't need to run too much more wire into the cabin/fusebox

    If I was seriously doing it myself, I'd remove the front wing and dash to make sure I did it properly/cut the right wires etc and just generally made it neat
  10. #10
    Ye i was thinking of taking wing off. I just want to get them inside the car so the bay will look abit tidier and will get like a proper fuse thing to put them all in or attach the one there in to something behind dash.
  11. #11
    Yeh sounds ideal

    Good luck with it
  12. #12
    Piece of cake. Can be done (properly) in about 90 minutes. Few wires to cut and resolder but other than that it's really no big deal.



    I love the smooth inner wings
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    Piece of cake. Can be done (properly) in about 90 minutes. Few wires to cut and resolder but other than that it's really no big deal.



    I love the smooth inner wings
    looks lovely that !!

  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    Piece of cake. Can be done (properly) in about 90 minutes. Few wires to cut and resolder but other than that it's really no big deal.



    I love the smooth inner wings
    That engine bay looks awesome, bet a fair bit of moneys been spent in there.
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by jsdvtr View Post
    That engine bay looks awesome, bet a fair bit of moneys been spent in there.
    Ta muchly. the Northern Racing boys did all the hard work - I just turned up once in a while to confuse the issue and demand more work be done

    Yeah, it's had some money spent on it, but it's my hobby so like any other hobby, you need to invest in it. When it's tearing past an evo or subaru like he's left the handbrake on, it's worth every penny
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    Ta muchly. the Northern Racing boys did all the hard work - I just turned up once in a while to confuse the issue and demand more work be done

    Yeah, it's had some money spent on it, but it's my hobby so like any other hobby, you need to invest in it. When it's tearing past an evo or subaru like he's left the handbrake on, it's worth every penny
    Haha awesome, i was looking at going boost but tbh i couldnt justify the amount of money becasue i know id want big power and id get annoyed with reliability and stuff going wrong so im sticking with a desent n/a spec and a light chassis.
  17. #17
    What sort of wire do i need to attach to the wires for the fusebox to make them longer to go inside the car.
  18. #18
    Same thickness as the wire your cutting. If your converting to standalone at the same time, use the wires your removing from the engine bay that are similar.
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    Same thickness as the wire your cutting. If your converting to standalone at the same time, use the wires your removing from the engine bay that are similar.
    I wont be going standalone for a while. Just looking at tidying up the bay abit for time being.
  20. #20
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by jsdvtr View Post
    What sort of wire do i need to attach to the wires for the fusebox to make them longer to go inside the car.
    ideally the same guage thats already there. can go thicker, but don't go thinner incase you introduce more problems!

    best bet would be to get an assortment of thicknesses and colours, that way you can keep it vaguely oem
  21. #21
    I was going to use amp wiring, use the red one for + to go into boot via a cut off switch on dash and black one for earth.
  22. #22
    Right, ive got the wing pretty much off apart from a bolt but i can work around that. Im stuck on what to do... I will be putting the plugs that go on the underside of the fuses through the gromet and reconnecting them up. Only thing is the wires for the battery pos and neg. I thought i may aswell put the battery into the boot at the same time as will save hassle.

    Will the wiring for amp be good enough for the battery?
  23. #23
    use this:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=260397080354

    and these:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=260348812054
  24. #24
    Cheers, ive got battery terminals already but was going to use the normal ones already on car anyway. Also ive just been to try get the plugs through the gromet and arent long enough so ive just put everything back for time being. How did you get around this as would have to make every wire longer and theres like 20.
  25. #25
    I used wire I removed from the engine loom wiring when I stripped most of it out as I went Omex standalone so had a lot of spare engine wire. Yes, you'll need to extend a few wires - when/if you go standalone there's a lot less wires to deal with
  26. #26
    Well all the wires that come from the big loom behind wing that seperate in 3 plugs, i tried to just put the plugs through the grommet but wouldnt reach as just not long enough so in theory only way would be to make all of those wires longer and reconnect to the plug or into a new fuse box. If u get what i mean? It would take a while to get done and need all the right stuff before starting.
  27. #27
    I went to put battery on car otherday and it started sparking on the positive, think the 3 plugs that slot into fusebox on underside the small one could be in the wrong place as all the earth and wires are all in correct place.

    Also there is a plug coming from the fusebox which is like a plug thats similar to a engine one but unsure where its for but this has never been connected since ive had the swap done so its nothing to important, would just like to know what its for.
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by jsdvtr View Post
    I went to put battery on car otherday and it started sparking on the positive, think the 3 plugs that slot into fusebox on underside the small one could be in the wrong place as all the earth and wires are all in correct place.

    Also there is a plug coming from the fusebox which is like a plug thats similar to a engine one but unsure where its for but this has never been connected since ive had the swap done so its nothing to important, would just like to know what its for.
    Any one know why this could happen? Sparking when i connect the positve?

    Could someone tell me in the fusebox the 3 plugs (2 big, 1 small) where the smallest one goes just so i know ive got it in right place.