Important! : Torsion Bar help Quick !!

1. user_28622 Established Member Joined: Nov 2008 West Sussex, Worthing Posts: 1671 Golf TDI 130

   #1 24th June 2010, 12:11

   Just doing my torsion bar and wondering how the feck am i meant to get the washers out ?? I cant see them moving an inch. I did a search before posting this but nothing really came up
   
   Thanks Ben
2. willsy West Midlands Joined: Nov 2005 Nuneaton (West Mids) Posts: 13835 '64 Volvo V40 R’Design, '89 Ph1 309 GTi, ‘97 Mk1 S

   #2 24th June 2010, 12:17

   Make sure you clean out the recess that they sit in as much as possible. You should have it cleaned out enough to see that itll slide across from where its sat in the arm/beam and then be able to flick it out.
   
   They can be the most awkward part of the lowering at times, especially the fiddly ones that there isnt much space to get to them

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3. Mochachino Saxperience Hardcore! Joined: Nov 2007 Guantanamo Bay Posts: 28700 oyster card

   #3 24th June 2010, 12:19

   I find cleaning out the recess as willsy said then use a bolt and a hammer to tap it out. Also if you got new ones its alot easier to just hit the bar against one of the washers, come sout easily then but slightly bent. Just replace it.
   
   Hell of alot easier to do them off the car though.

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4. willsy West Midlands Joined: Nov 2005 Nuneaton (West Mids) Posts: 13835 '64 Volvo V40 R’Design, '89 Ph1 309 GTi, ‘97 Mk1 S

   #4 24th June 2010, 12:23

   I use an engineers scribe to help clean out all the muck and crap from the recess. works well, anything with a small sharp point will do the trick.
   
   

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5. user_28622 Established Member Joined: Nov 2008 West Sussex, Worthing Posts: 1671 Golf TDI 130

   #5 24th June 2010, 12:54

   Quote:

   Originally Posted by db_sax I find cleaning out the recess as willsy said then use a bolt and a hammer to tap it out. Also if you got new ones its alot easier to just hit the bar against one of the washers, come sout easily then but slightly bent. Just replace it. Hell of alot easier to do them off the car though.

   Tried your method, and the fecker just isnt moving, also willsy i've tried cleaning it out the best i can and still they aren't moving. Any other suggestions
6. user_28622 Established Member Joined: Nov 2008 West Sussex, Worthing Posts: 1671 Golf TDI 130

   #6 24th June 2010, 13:17

   Its alright i've got them out
7. willsy West Midlands Joined: Nov 2005 Nuneaton (West Mids) Posts: 13835 '64 Volvo V40 R’Design, '89 Ph1 309 GTi, ‘97 Mk1 S

   #7 24th June 2010, 13:18

   Quote:

   Originally Posted by Ben121290 Its alright i've got them out

   Result
   
   Now then what method are you going to be using to get the torsion bars out?
8. user_28622 Established Member Joined: Nov 2008 West Sussex, Worthing Posts: 1671 Golf TDI 130

   #8 24th June 2010, 15:47

   A failed one, gave up in the end, kept squirting them with wd40 then using a hammer to hit a bolt and some washers attached to the bar. Wouldn't budge so i gave up for now.
9. Mochachino Saxperience Hardcore! Joined: Nov 2007 Guantanamo Bay Posts: 28700 oyster card

   #9 24th June 2010, 16:00

   Persistance
10. willsy West Midlands Joined: Nov 2005 Nuneaton (West Mids) Posts: 13835 '64 Volvo V40 R’Design, '89 Ph1 309 GTi, ‘97 Mk1 S

    #10 24th June 2010, 16:13

    What hammer are you using?
    
    A bolt will be no good for removing the bars either. You should have a normal 13mm m8 hex bolt inserted into the ends (same thread length as standard end bolts if you can so it tightens in) to protect the end threads.
    
    Then you'll want a decent bar of some sorts. We use an old ARB with one of the end plates still in place to give a bigger surface area to hit with the hammer.
11. user_28622 Established Member Joined: Nov 2008 West Sussex, Worthing Posts: 1671 Golf TDI 130

    #11 24th June 2010, 21:16

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by willsy What hammer are you using? A bolt will be no good for removing the bars either. You should have a normal 13mm m8 hex bolt inserted into the ends (same thread length as standard end bolts if you can so it tightens in) to protect the end threads. Then you'll want a decent bar of some sorts. We use an old ARB with one of the end plates still in place to give a bigger surface area to hit with the hammer.

    A normal stanley one, nothing special.
    
    I will get a couple.
    
    I have a breaker point that i have been using a big chunky fecker. But thats it.
    
    Any other tips.
12. werdna Frequent Poster Joined: Mar 2009 Leeds Posts: 680 Ep3 Type R

    #12 24th June 2010, 21:22

    A big hammer and persistence
    
    If by stanley you mean a normal household hammer that simply wont do, you need something huge.