ppl in the know......ph3s on boost

  1. #1
    ok so we're back to this again lol, as the pred is not gonna be ready for the for seeable future(for my engine) i wanna get the turbo moved on, so im gonna run mf2 set up with my original plans, still forge the lump then when pred is ready, im gonna upgrage to turbo spec custom cams with a bigger, or hybrid my origianl turbo, new injectors and maybe some p&p work, should be something to look forward to when get bored of the power...

    so before i waffle on anymore, im gonna fit my 90bhp silvertop head onto the 98bhp lump with my rallye inlet and tb....however i no longer have the stock camshaft, there only one i have is my ph3 shaft which is still fitted to the head, i know the bp285's seem to do well on boost, so the ph3s being similar should similarly see some decent gains over a stock shaft?, dont want to set it all up and find its laggy as fook and sufering alot of blow by, will be actuator pressure so i think that will be 10psi iirc? (t25 from a 200sx)

    opinions needed ppl....sorry for the essay
  2. #2
    gonna bump this before i sign off laterz ppl!!
  3. #3
    I would sell it and get a standard camshaft in there for now.

    Will stop any potential running problems and maybe make it a tad easier to set up the fueling?

    IMO don't do things twice, just go the whole hog from the start - if the predator isn't ready then go for a dta and loom. The money and time you'll spend doing it in two stages will be more than just going the whole hog from the start.
  4. #4
    buy my dastek
  5. #5
    cheers for the input lads, i dont wanna do it twice but the costs will only be the same really, still gonna have to get ecu, only extras will be a new mls, new water pump and new timing belt kit, would make the money back on the mf2 set up, dont want a dastek mate, more money in fitting/mapping etc,

    i figure if i do it this way itll buy me some time and also itll be a hell of alot quicker when its all done "properly" so will be like a new car lol
  6. #6
    You got the spec of the 8v ph3 you could post up? Would like to see what sort of overlap it does have?

    I'm on the iPhone so is a mission to find it
  7. #7
    Do you want me to give you a guy's number?
    What could make you a loom for the DTA
  8. #8
    depends how much itd cost scott mate, my dad is very knowledgeable on cars and is qualified sparky so making one up wouldnt really be he issue, its just for ease and costs really tbh, an ross im sorry i havent go the spec's of the cam but will try get em, i know theyre similar in spec to the bp285's but not exactly, i know alot of ppl runs the 285's with low boost and seem to do well but the ph3 is a diff cam and dont know how it will respond
  9. #9
    I've got the newmans spec's now - is yours a roller or non-roller cam?
  10. #10
    roller mate. can you please share as im quite interested in knowing tbh
  11. #11
    duration - 270 degrees
    inlet lift - 10.53mm
    exhaust lift - 10.44mm

    timing - 25-65 & 65-25
    full lift at 110degrees

    One sec, I'll put a little diagram together for you to understand it
  12. #12
    i know how to work it mate, shoudnt be too bad on boost looking at it on paper, if its mapped well it should have spooled or near spooled up before its in the power band.
  13. #13
    I think that overlap will be too much personally - I've never tried it so can't talk from experience, but common sense tells me it'll be a bit much. You can't change the timing on the camshaft to reduce the overlap as you could do on a 16v engine.

    The piper bp285's have 38 degrees of overlap, which should work quite well on a supercharged engine, but on a turbo engine I would stick to standard or turbo cams.

    The ph3 cam looks like this (the angles aren't quite right on the drawing but you get the idea)

    *just uploading a picture*
  14. #14
  15. #15
    good pic mate, you make that? this is my issue lol, suppose i could use the camsaft thats in the 98bhp lump???? and sel the ph3
  16. #16
    lol, I did draw it

    If I was you I'd stick with a standard camshaft for now, sell the ph3, and upgrade it to a turbo spec cam when you up the boost/go hybrid etc etc.
  17. #17
    i may just splash the cash and get the turbo cam now, as in theory if im forging the lump etc now, when pred does come along ill have no reason to remove the head again, just new injectors/ecu and fuity turbo changes etc. so its not gonna cost me any more really, just means ill be boosted quicker but not to the extent id wish?
  18. #18
    yeh sounds good

    sell the ph3 and get a turbo cam now. Do it right, from the start - I think you'll thank yourself when you hit boost and have a huge grin !!
  19. #19
    for some reason i was thinking id need to remove the head again, hence wanting to half arse atm untill pred was done, dont know why i thought that at all lmao, but it seems my choice has been made for me!!

    cant wait for boost!! the end result will be awesome but im guessing what it should make with mf2 and turbo cam should be decent fun anyway.... gotta at least hit 170bhp realistically
  20. #20
    is a hard one as to what it'd hit - I'm not sure about 8v's and how they take boost.

    Only time will tell
  21. #21
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by raunchz View Post
    is a hard one as to what it'd hit - I'm not sure about 8v's and how they take boost.

    Only time will tell
    see i was also in this position, but ive seen lots off half arsed vtrs hitting 160-170 on 8psi, and furios that made 170-180 with the same half arsed job but with a turbo spec cam,

    mine will have a rallye inlet & tb (ported an port matched)
    the cam to spec
    head will be mildly ported by myself and cleaned up proffensionally
    the turbo set up running actuator pressure 10psi
    decent downpipe and 2.5" turbo back sytem
    decent frount mount i/c set up

    and obvs th mf2 for now so it should hit 170bhp?


    tbh im not really fussed what it hits before or after, long as its nice and fun, if it makes 170 when its finished altogether ill be happy if its reliable and nicley done, id like it to get near 200 but at the end of the day for what im spending and the spec im running its abit optimistic as im more interested in a realiable car
  22. #22
    It being reliable is key - the figures it produces are irrelevant if you can't feel confident on jumping in it and going out for a hard drive without breaking it!

    Will look forward to seeing what sorts figures it makes
  23. #23
    haha your not the only one mate, no matter what it makes ill be smiling, brakes and susp on stock vtr makes me grin now, bit more power will make it nice, as much as i love turbos the only reason im going to this much trouble with a vtr is all mods down on a vtr i get about 1k insurance, standard vts is 2.5k plus lol..... i know where id rather be sitting
    it also give me the right to say yeah its only an 8v!