Brake disc securing bolt rounded!

  1. #1
    Taking the brake disc off today, managed to remove one of the little T30 torx screws but the other rounded off under not even alot of force.

    Can't believe how stupid the design is to be honest what an epic fail using a tiny torx screw to secure a huge heaby disk thats also fairly highly torqued just begging to be rounded
  2. #2
    there a nitemate , i get them off usin a little sharp chisel mate
  3. #3
    Dont even need them torx screws there tbh, if they're the ones i'm thinking of.
  4. #4
    they shouldnt be highly torqued. There only there to stop the disk from spinning on the hub when trying to fit the wheel, they should be one upto 8-10Nm.
  5. #5
    drill them. as said they shouldnt be done tight, they only hold the disc in place when theres no wheel on
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by DAZZY_R View Post
    there a nitemate , i get them off usin a little sharp chisel mate
    Do you mean you stick the chisel in the screw and turn it like a screw driver? Or do you mean you mash the head of the screw off with a chisel then take the disc out and turn out the thread?

    Also just to confirm im on about the two screws in the face of the hub either side of the disc.

    hadn't checked the torque setting yet (always do when tightening up) so wasn't aware it was only 8-10 but mine feel hella tight!
  7. #7
    drill a little hole on the side wall of the head and get a centre punch and tap it round the way you would un-do the thred
  8. #8
    Chisel them out. theyre a bastard and not really needed!
  9. #9
    Drill the heads off and, if you can, get the rest of the body out, if not, don't worry about them. As said, they're only there to help keep the disc located when it comes to fitting the wheels, when the wheels are on, they're bolted up tight against the disc anyway.
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by joe-vts88 View Post
    drill a little hole on the side wall of the head and get a centre punch and tap it round the way you would un-do the thred
    this is the way I normally do and is the best way to do it as it takes the whole screw out rather than just breaking the head of it
    1 user thanked this post:
  11. #11
    don't know why people over tighten them, try smacking a bigger torx socket in if they are not totally fucked.

    Then try chizzle and hammer them, some times works.

    If not then you'll have to drill them till the head drops off.

    You can get away without needing them, but essentially i prefer to have them in, if you do track days and have the wheels off and on a lot it can become a pain.
    You'll notice the holes in the discs move and don't line up with the holes on the hub al the time as you've slightly moved the disc when putting the wheel on, then have to squeeze your finger or similar in to line the holes up


    If you do put some back in just nip them, don't need to be mega tight at all.
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Steve View Post
    don't know why people over tighten them, try smacking a bigger torx socket in if they are not totally fucked.

    Then try chizzle and hammer them, some times works.

    If not then you'll have to drill them till the head drops off.

    You can get away without needing them, but essentially i prefer to have them in, if you do track days and have the wheels off and on a lot it can become a pain.
    You'll notice the holes in the discs move and don't line up with the holes on the hub al the time as you've slightly moved the disc when putting the wheel on, then have to squeeze your finger or similar in to line the holes up


    If you do put some back in just nip them, don't need to be mega tight at all.
    don't they give you crossheaded bolts these days??
  13. #13
    drill the head off leaving a little stud there, that way you dont have the bother of this problem in the future but do have a little stud to stop the disc rotating when putting the wheel on
  14. #14
    Like above. But for a better job of it try and get the whole thing out and then buy a threaded stud with a hex in the end then cut it down so it is as thick as the disc. Screw it in and then you can use this as a guide pin to stop the disc from spinning but you don't need to remove them every time of course
  15. #15
    I failed it pretty bad, tried drilling it out and ended up with a big crater in the head but its still in there!

    Cheap metal drill bits I bought didnt last 5 min and now nothing will drill into the head!

    My thoughts some cowboys at a garage done these up with an airgun or something coz there so tight, the other side wont even budge but I havent used much force this time as I dont wanna round em off again!
  16. #16
    I rounded one off and used a cutting chisel.

    Put the tip of the chisel against one edge of the screw at an angle and hammer it. It should dig into the head of the screw and start to turn it with the force of you hammering it!

    Good luck, its really not that difficult.
  17. #17
    Cheers for all the replies lads, managed to get it sorted earlier my mate came round with his drill n popped em all out for me.
  18. #18
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SteveWC View Post
    I failed it pretty bad, tried drilling it out and ended up with a big crater in the head but its still in there!

    Cheap metal drill bits I bought didnt last 5 min and now nothing will drill into the head!
    Why didnt you sharpen the drill and try again?
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SteveWC View Post
    I failed it pretty bad, tried drilling it out and ended up with a big crater in the head but its still in there!

    Cheap metal drill bits I bought didnt last 5 min and now nothing will drill into the head!

    My thoughts some cowboys at a garage done these up with an airgun or something coz there so tight, the other side wont even budge but I havent used much force this time as I dont wanna round em off again!
    they wont have air gunned them mate , ive only been a mechanic for 4 years and on 1 out of 3 brake jobs i do they are stuck ( they seize in) it because they are a tapered screw so they have a bigger contact surface so when they rust a little there shite to undo because its only a philips or a torx head, but i use an impact driver to remove them, a short sharp jolt that unscrews it without rounding