right got couple of weeks off work and am bored so i thought id try an awnser a few questions surrounding euro/cleaned look. im always getting numerous pm's asking for advive so hopefully this may help.
euro look is all about clean lines and smooth bodywork. neutral colours also work best on euro cars, there main aim is too look expensive and sophisticated. browns, greys and purple are a few examples. with all euro cars being unique is the key, try do something hardly ever done before. this is the hardest part about euro.
BODYWORK>
body work is designed to be plain and subtle on euro cars as oppossed to bodykits and bumpers. delocking, smoothing aerials/fog lights and recess's are all examples. if you dont need it, smooth it. as mentioned try to be unique, rather than smoothing everything you see in sight, try to modify or adapt it to make it look different. the idea is for the exterior to look plain/standard but upon closer inspection its the complete opposite.
[/QUOTE]
STANCE>
stance is all about how the car sits on the wheels. wide on the rear and slighly narrower on the front. the law states your allowed 30mm of poke on your wheels, but this is a VERY cagey subject and always comes down to the disgression of the police officer. yes if you have wheels that poke out way too far, expect a few words with a policeman. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
also the car will have to be ultra low( 80mm+) the front of the car should be lower on the front than on the rear, this helps create the stance and also creates an aggressive look.
coilovers will be needed for this, springs will not go low enough. also you can adjust mm by mm with coilovers on how low/ close to the arch you want to go. dont just buy coilovers and drop them as low as they'll possiblly go and then slam the back. before you even attempt setting up the suspension make sure you have wheels and spacers ready as you alter the suspension to suit the wheels, not slam the car and pray it looks alright. so you have your wheels and suspension set up, still not over. chances are your going to be so low your chassis will be sitting on your whishbones. bad idea. either you need a chassis notch or custom wishbones. these are needed as your suspension will be reduced alot as you will have not travel. this is dangerous as well as uncomfortable. then you need to think about tracking. your power steering pipe will rub causing it to split over time, this needs to be bent out of the way. arch linners may have to come out if you have a serious drop, if this is the case the arch's should be treated to prevent rust.
if you have the money, air ride/ hydralics could be another option. hardly anyone will go down this route so wont go into detail.
camber also helps creating stance, but as saxo's have torsion bars its impossible to camber the rear so no point going into it. the only way rear camber can be achieved is through custom hubs/spacers. this is not ideal/safe to do so forget camber
WHEELS>
you may here many people talking about 'j' when it comes to wheels. this just means the width.
as most looks, a set of wheels will normally make or break a car. there are many different types of wheel that can be used for the euro look. split rims, banded steels, wheels from expensive/rare cars. they have to look expensive(being euro they probably will be) and have to be wide. 99% of euro cars run staggered width wheels. the rear wheels should be wider than the fronts, this can be achieved with either spacers or some wheels come in different widths. on saxo's most people go 7.5/8j on the front andas wide as 8.5/9j on the rear.
most 'euro' wheels come in 4x100 fittment(vw) and we are 4x108. ( E.T/offset 15-18) therefore spacers are normally required to fit some wheels. hubcentric are they ONLY ones to get if your buying spacers. by far the safest way of spacing out wheels.
[/QUOTE]
i could upload thousands of wheel pics, but there are far too many. choice is up to you but majority go with the trusted bbs, scmidt, borbet etc
now you've got your wheels, you need tires. you will probably need stretched tires. these are basiclly tires that are too small for your wheels, but they are put on to create a stretched effect. this isnt for looks. its so that when you put you wheels on the the car, the tire thread will be under the arch will the rest off the wheel/tire will protrude the arch. little tip: dont go for a crazy stretch on the front two wheels. the fronts have more work to do than the rear wheels and will be safer/better piece of mind to go for less of a tire stretch. the rears will need stretching in accordance to how far your wheel will stick out. as the rear wheels main job is to hold the back of the car up and keep you in a straight line, a bigger stretch can be used. BUT PLEASE USE COMMON SENSE. dont put a 165 tire on a 9j wheel, again a bit of common sense.
interiors>
luxury, stylish,expensive, different. this is how your interior should look. leather is 99% used, but there are many other materials out there. not really a great deal to say on interiors. basiclly shouldnt look out of place in a bentley/ferrarri is the only way to describe a euro interior. custom touches, dash swaps, seats from other cars, stylish gauges/buttons/handles/dials etc
interior still has to look clean/subtle. dont fill it with buttons, speakers and t.v's!
boot builds/audio>
to finish off any car, a quality boot build can help. as its euro look your after, forget filling the boot with subs and 6x9,s. plain designs work best oppossed to a massive show car build.
euro is not cheap. sometimes you do things that cost money that hardly anyone will notice. this is all part of euro as it helps as this will achieve the end finish. there is no set guidelines for what should/shouldn't be done. if you think it will look good, do it. as long as the vaige guidelines are followed its up to you and your imagination.
also you can throw £££ at your car to make it 'euro', but if its fitted badly/poor workmanship/thrown together at the last minute, you may as well give up now. its all about how well something is done, not the fact you tried but couldnt really pull it off. the only way i can think of putting this, is it should look like it rolled out the factory.
hard trying to put it into words as i know what i mean but cant think of an easy way to write it in this thread, so ill leave some links and take a look for yourself
hope people dont mind using thier cars as examples, if you do let me know and ill remove them
hope this bit of info may help, and keep my pm's down!
www.plush-automotive.co.uk
wheel-whores.com
edition38.com
cleaned-uk.com
cleaned.be
ebay.co.uk
and obviously google for parts and equipment
euro look is all about clean lines and smooth bodywork. neutral colours also work best on euro cars, there main aim is too look expensive and sophisticated. browns, greys and purple are a few examples. with all euro cars being unique is the key, try do something hardly ever done before. this is the hardest part about euro.
BODYWORK>
body work is designed to be plain and subtle on euro cars as oppossed to bodykits and bumpers. delocking, smoothing aerials/fog lights and recess's are all examples. if you dont need it, smooth it. as mentioned try to be unique, rather than smoothing everything you see in sight, try to modify or adapt it to make it look different. the idea is for the exterior to look plain/standard but upon closer inspection its the complete opposite.
[/QUOTE]STANCE>
stance is all about how the car sits on the wheels. wide on the rear and slighly narrower on the front. the law states your allowed 30mm of poke on your wheels, but this is a VERY cagey subject and always comes down to the disgression of the police officer. yes if you have wheels that poke out way too far, expect a few words with a policeman. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
also the car will have to be ultra low( 80mm+) the front of the car should be lower on the front than on the rear, this helps create the stance and also creates an aggressive look.
coilovers will be needed for this, springs will not go low enough. also you can adjust mm by mm with coilovers on how low/ close to the arch you want to go. dont just buy coilovers and drop them as low as they'll possiblly go and then slam the back. before you even attempt setting up the suspension make sure you have wheels and spacers ready as you alter the suspension to suit the wheels, not slam the car and pray it looks alright. so you have your wheels and suspension set up, still not over. chances are your going to be so low your chassis will be sitting on your whishbones. bad idea. either you need a chassis notch or custom wishbones. these are needed as your suspension will be reduced alot as you will have not travel. this is dangerous as well as uncomfortable. then you need to think about tracking. your power steering pipe will rub causing it to split over time, this needs to be bent out of the way. arch linners may have to come out if you have a serious drop, if this is the case the arch's should be treated to prevent rust.
if you have the money, air ride/ hydralics could be another option. hardly anyone will go down this route so wont go into detail.
camber also helps creating stance, but as saxo's have torsion bars its impossible to camber the rear so no point going into it. the only way rear camber can be achieved is through custom hubs/spacers. this is not ideal/safe to do so forget camber
WHEELS>
you may here many people talking about 'j' when it comes to wheels. this just means the width.
as most looks, a set of wheels will normally make or break a car. there are many different types of wheel that can be used for the euro look. split rims, banded steels, wheels from expensive/rare cars. they have to look expensive(being euro they probably will be) and have to be wide. 99% of euro cars run staggered width wheels. the rear wheels should be wider than the fronts, this can be achieved with either spacers or some wheels come in different widths. on saxo's most people go 7.5/8j on the front andas wide as 8.5/9j on the rear.
most 'euro' wheels come in 4x100 fittment(vw) and we are 4x108. ( E.T/offset 15-18) therefore spacers are normally required to fit some wheels. hubcentric are they ONLY ones to get if your buying spacers. by far the safest way of spacing out wheels.
[/QUOTE]i could upload thousands of wheel pics, but there are far too many. choice is up to you but majority go with the trusted bbs, scmidt, borbet etc
now you've got your wheels, you need tires. you will probably need stretched tires. these are basiclly tires that are too small for your wheels, but they are put on to create a stretched effect. this isnt for looks. its so that when you put you wheels on the the car, the tire thread will be under the arch will the rest off the wheel/tire will protrude the arch. little tip: dont go for a crazy stretch on the front two wheels. the fronts have more work to do than the rear wheels and will be safer/better piece of mind to go for less of a tire stretch. the rears will need stretching in accordance to how far your wheel will stick out. as the rear wheels main job is to hold the back of the car up and keep you in a straight line, a bigger stretch can be used. BUT PLEASE USE COMMON SENSE. dont put a 165 tire on a 9j wheel, again a bit of common sense.
interiors>
luxury, stylish,expensive, different. this is how your interior should look. leather is 99% used, but there are many other materials out there. not really a great deal to say on interiors. basiclly shouldnt look out of place in a bentley/ferrarri is the only way to describe a euro interior. custom touches, dash swaps, seats from other cars, stylish gauges/buttons/handles/dials etc
interior still has to look clean/subtle. dont fill it with buttons, speakers and t.v's!
boot builds/audio>
to finish off any car, a quality boot build can help. as its euro look your after, forget filling the boot with subs and 6x9,s. plain designs work best oppossed to a massive show car build.
euro is not cheap. sometimes you do things that cost money that hardly anyone will notice. this is all part of euro as it helps as this will achieve the end finish. there is no set guidelines for what should/shouldn't be done. if you think it will look good, do it. as long as the vaige guidelines are followed its up to you and your imagination.
also you can throw £££ at your car to make it 'euro', but if its fitted badly/poor workmanship/thrown together at the last minute, you may as well give up now. its all about how well something is done, not the fact you tried but couldnt really pull it off. the only way i can think of putting this, is it should look like it rolled out the factory.
hard trying to put it into words as i know what i mean but cant think of an easy way to write it in this thread, so ill leave some links and take a look for yourself
hope people dont mind using thier cars as examples, if you do let me know and ill remove them
hope this bit of info may help, and keep my pm's down!
www.plush-automotive.co.uk
wheel-whores.com
edition38.com
cleaned-uk.com
cleaned.be
ebay.co.uk
and obviously google for parts and equipment
