brake bias valves

13th October 2010, 21:27

replacing my bias valve this weekend as my current one is knackered.

just wondering could it be replaced with one that could be put inside the car, with the brake lines coming in the car..

any links to ones i could look at??

james

13th October 2010, 21:30

Yes, one I would reccommend is the Wilwood one with the "knob" on it. Infinate adjustment then. But they are imperial sized so you need metric converted fittings.

13th October 2010, 21:31

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...derValves.aspx

13th October 2010, 21:34

not meaning to hijack the thread but, ist it harder to set them up if there the screw type not the click type with say only 10settings?

13th October 2010, 21:36

I wouldnt say so tbh, I set mine up by testing it, but got it fine tuned on the brake tester on my MOT.

The lever type is probs more suited to race cars as they "know" what setting does what, so they can adjust it on track without worrying about messing it up with the touch of a lever.

13th October 2010, 21:39

The infinite type are better to create a single, very precise setup for your system. The click lever type are much better for using as a running bias adjustment as you can find the click that suits each corner and it will never change. You put it on that click and you know how it will perform. personal taste in the end

13th October 2010, 21:39

thanks for that colin, which one from the link would you recommend.... would much refer fitting one of these as i sont want to fuck about taking the wheel off to get the adjustment spot on

i basically want a valve that i can easily adjust so i feel the brakes a right for each track i do... dont want to be taking the wheel of all the time to get to standard valve

found these on ebay... any good
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brake-Bias-Pro...item1c164ea90c

13th October 2010, 21:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin

I wouldnt say so tbh, I set mine up by testing it, but got it fine tuned on the brake tester on my MOT.

The lever type is probs more suited to race cars as they "know" what setting does what, so they can adjust it on track without worrying about messing it up with the touch of a lever.

beat me to it lol

13th October 2010, 21:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark1311

not meaning to hijack the thread but, ist it harder to set them up if there the screw type not the click type with say only 10settings?

any links to the click type adjustment valves

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin

I wouldnt say so tbh, I set mine up by testing it, but got it fine tuned on the brake tester on my MOT.

The lever type is probs more suited to race cars as they "know" what setting does what, so they can adjust it on track without worrying about messing it up with the touch of a lever.

i do have access to some brake rollers so the screw type will be good... do they come with a lock nut so the knob cannot be turned

13th October 2010, 21:44

Haha sorry Ads

Looks good to me James, the Willwood ones are not too badly priced if you want the name, about 50 quid, but each do the job tbh! The knob (lol) style on that link I posted, I run that one and think it does the trick.

13th October 2010, 21:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin

Haha sorry Ads

Looks good to me James, the Willwood ones are not too badly priced if you want the name, about 50 quid, but each do the job tbh! The knob (lol) style on that link I posted, I run that one and think it does the trick.

not to fussed on brand mate i just want it to do the job...really pissed off as there has been one for sale on here for ages and has just recently gone (i think lippy was selling)

colin have you got any pics of yours of where it is mounted and how it is piped

13th October 2010, 21:53

The willwood knob adjust one is very good,
afaik it cant be lockd off though.
We supply them to go with the internal braided lines.
We situate it just behind the handbrake. As it cant be accidently knockd but can if required be fine tuned when strapped in a harness.

13th October 2010, 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTSjames

not to fussed on brand mate i just want it to do the job...really pissed off as there has been one for sale on here for ages and has just recently gone (i think lippy was selling)

colin have you got any pics of yours of where it is mounted and how it is piped

true! sods law ent it,

Some pics in my progress thread mate, and how its piped is another story! simple enough once you know the correct fittings.

13th October 2010, 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by swampy

The willwood knob adjust one is very good,
afaik it cant be lockd off though.
We supply them to go with the internal braided lines.
We situate it just behind the handbrake. As it cant be accidently knockd but can if required be fine tuned when strapped in a harness.

good point about been able to adjust whilst in harnesses

so how many ports are there on the valves

looking at this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brake-Bias-Pro...item3f03e85288

what the standard setting for saxo %age wise (front - rear)

any pics of one of these fitted??

13th October 2010, 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin

true! sods law ent it,

Some pics in my progress thread mate, and how its piped is another story! simple enough once you know the correct fittings.

will take a look now

13th October 2010, 22:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTSjames

good point about been able to adjust whilst in harnesses

so how many ports are there on the valves

looking at this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brake-Bias-Pro...item3f03e85288

what the standard setting for saxo %age wise (front - rear)

any pics of one of these fitted??

they make some big claims in that advert that i wouldnt say are true!!!

you will have one line in and one line out, so the rear brakes will need re plumbing.

line from mc to the inlet,
through the bias
out the bias to a t piece
t piece through the boot floor
floor to each caliper.

13th October 2010, 22:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by swampy

they make some big claims in that advert that i wouldnt say are true!!!

you will have one line in and one line out, so the rear brakes will need re plumbing.

line from mc to the inlet,
through the bias
out the bias to a t piece
t piece through the boot floor
floor to each caliper.

which claims? would like to know before i buy lol

yeah i get the one line in and one line out, but i have a 4 port mc (abs) so i presume its 2 outlets from mc to front brakes, then one outlet from mc to bias, so where does the other one go??? im probably going to sound stupid here... but if the front brakes are not piped into the bias how does i change the bias.... i presume it does it through the mc

i presume i can still use 3/16 pipe and dont have to use braided lines

13th October 2010, 22:31

That they most of the bias valves in use are theres,they supply all the race teams.
I have never heard of them.

You would need to swap the pipes on the mc so the two opposites go to the front and one of the others goes to the rear.
The other port you will need to blank off.

You can use copper pipe still just have to get the correct unions to match the fixings and bias valve.
Where the pipe passes through bulkheads i would use a through bulkhead fitting.
At the rear after the t piece it will need to pass through the floor.
They will then travel along the trailing arms, these sections here i would do in braided as they need to be flexable.

13th October 2010, 22:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by swampy

That they most of the bias valves in use are theres,they supply all the race teams.
I have never heard of them.

You would need to swap the pipes on the mc so the two opposites go to the front and one of the others goes to the rear.
The other port you will need to blank off.

You can use copper pipe still just have to get the correct unions to match the fixings and bias valve.
Where the pipe passes through bulkheads i would use a through bulkhead fitting.
At the rear after the t piece it will need to pass through the floor.
They will then travel along the trailing arms, these sections here i would do in braided as they need to be flexable.

thanks for this info mate, really helpful

just still abit confused on the above, but will probably be a little clearer when i take a closer look

if anybody has any pictures of bias valves in car all piped up and mc picture, will be greatly appreciated!1

13th October 2010, 22:49

1 2
3 4

is how they are at the moment 1 and 2 being the left side and 3 and 4 the right
at present 1 and 4 will work the rears and 2 and 3 the fronts.

you will need to swap the pipes around on the mc 1 and 3 are fronts
2 OR 4 goes to the rear, and the port not used is blanked off.

14th October 2010, 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by swampy

1 2
3 4

is how they are at the moment 1 and 2 being the left side and 3 and 4 the right
at present 1 and 4 will work the rears and 2 and 3 the fronts.

you will need to swap the pipes around on the mc 1 and 3 are fronts
2 OR 4 goes to the rear, and the port not used is blanked off.

just what i was after

14th October 2010, 21:23

That make sense to you?

14th October 2010, 22:30

yes mate, understand it more now you have explained it like that

thanks for the info

15th October 2010, 15:55

id go for an adjustable one in car. never happy with my standard one. they adjust when you brake anyway!

if you have chance to get on a brake roller then try as it is. it may be stuck in a good position lol.

other thing is you say the car dives too much under breaking. you must remember your standard suspension and eibach springs may be contributing to the nose dive more than you think.

get that arse squatted another inch and there will be less weight to more forward too

15th October 2010, 18:15

An easy way to do it without a brake roller. (if you have 4 friends to help) is put the brakes fully on, then get people to try and spin the front and rears. Slowly release the brake and see which ones move first. Obviously the ones that move first have the least bias. This can be used to get a bases setup. Wanting the rears to let go first

15th October 2010, 21:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by sexy_gt

id go for an adjustable one in car. never happy with my standard one. they adjust when you brake anyway!

if you have chance to get on a brake roller then try as it is. it may be stuck in a good position lol.

other thing is you say the car dives too much under breaking. you must remember your standard suspension and eibach springs may be contributing to the nose dive more than you think.

get that arse squatted another inch and there will be less weight to more forward too

yeah i reckon im going to go with one in the car and put the lines in the car also.... bye bye abs

lol yeah i suppose it could be stuck in a good position but im deffo sure there was no back brakes lol... as for nose dive, it was the one corner it felt very unstable (the one aproaching the mountain) but yeah i suppose it got top remember im on stock setup with springs!

would like the back dropping another inch mate but its so much fucking about trying to get it to you on the trailer etc

15th October 2010, 21:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamskiTNR

An easy way to do it without a brake roller. (if you have 4 friends to help) is put the brakes fully on, then get people to try and spin the front and rears. Slowly release the brake and see which ones move first. Obviously the ones that move first have the least bias. This can be used to get a bases setup. Wanting the rears to let go first

i have easy access to rollers mate so think i would be better to do it on them, although your way sounds very simple and effective

15th October 2010, 21:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by swampy

1 2
3 4

is how they are at the moment 1 and 2 being the left side and 3 and 4 the right
at present 1 and 4 will work the rears and 2 and 3 the fronts.

you will need to swap the pipes around on the mc 1 and 3 are fronts
2 OR 4 goes to the rear, and the port not used is blanked off.

had a closer look tonight at my mc and found it was only a 2 port one...

so....

i presume i take pipe from one outlet of mc to a t- piece then to each front calipers, then from other outlet to bias valve then bias valve to t- piece then to rear calipers (i would be completely removing abs

is the above correct??

15th October 2010, 21:26

Yes mate thats exactly how to do it.
Have dimensions of a kit here to do just that.
Fronts i do in 5hoses
rears in 7 hoses

15th October 2010, 21:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by swampy

Yes mate thats exactly how to do it.
Have dimensions of a kit here to do just that.
Fronts i do in 5hoses
rears in 7 hoses

ah coole i will deffo do it this way then

do you have a pics of one of your setups?