1.1 to vtr

10th November 2010, 22:40

hi
is any one did it and what exacly You need .
is loom thesame and ecu. is 1.1 gearbox good or i need vtr box.

10th November 2010, 22:42

VTR engine, gearbox, loom, ecu, and other running gear.

10th November 2010, 22:43

And car may need strengthening....someone whos done it may be able to tell u.
Also, either bigger front brakes or rear disc conversion. Not a must but i would recomend it

10th November 2010, 22:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt-T

And car may need strengthening....someone whos done it may be able to tell u.
Also, either bigger front brakes or rear disc conversion. Not a must but i would recomend it

car strengthening, never heard of it . bigger brakes is best done first.
i did a search and found you may need a fuel return line

10th November 2010, 22:56

i thought that 1.1 have close fuel system ie return line.

rear drums are as good as disc just overheating bit to fast.but on front i am going to fit 266 from 306.
so generaly whole front suspension + rolbar etc.

10th November 2010, 23:04

only structural strengthening is to weld the VT mount on the osf inner wing, its much beefier then the standard 1.1 mount, can supply them if needed. some will say don't bother, i'd say seeing as citroen spent all the time developing it,its been strengthened for a reason, and yes i've done quite a few

11th November 2010, 04:14

Can use the 1.1 box, it's shorter, and will save you some money meaning you don't need to buy a VTR box.

ECU isn't the same, and loom isn't either (IIRC). As said above, you'll ideally want the front suspension setup, with anti roll bar, but I personally wouldn't bother with a disc rear beam, I never had one (my car was essentially the 106 variant of a VTR, and only had drums from the factory), and never had any issues at all, even with considerably more power.

11th November 2010, 08:04

thanks for tips i am of to braker how much they going to charge for whole fron of the car.
Well maintain drums on saxo i personaly think is beter option less maintanance les failure and still very efectiv.

11th November 2010, 12:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by alendil

thanks for tips i am of to braker how much they going to charge for whole fron of the car.
Well maintain drums on saxo i personaly think is beter option less maintanance les failure and still very efectiv.

Not looking for an arguement here but there is no way drums are better than discs. I have rear vented discs with green stuff pads and mine will run all day (it loves it when theyre hot) and drum failure on a 1.1 vtr is nothing but dangerous. its not that difficult get a rear beam with discs for about 80 and just change the brake pipes so they fit the master system it shouldnt be a problem. if your going to do it then do it properly.

11th November 2010, 13:56

yes they fail when they are hot and they geting hot extremly fast
but technicly its more eficient system than discs.
if disc will by more eficiant all trucks lories tractors etc etc will run disc.

yes discs are beter on saxos but they are hi maintanance compering to drums.
just my opinion

11th November 2010, 15:16

Thats a fair comment but they reason they dont use discs on lorries is because 90 percent of the braking is done from the front to prevent the rear locking up and fish tailing so they dont use them. but surely for 80 quid is worth whacking 1 on? definate breaking improvement

11th November 2010, 15:46

save ur time

buy this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-SAXO-V...item3a605c20d5

11th November 2010, 16:40

very nice but.
i got saxo on first place to save some money(got mot failure for 80 gbp)
i spend 200 to put everythink right. i heard that vtr are almost thesame on fuel if driven corectly. so bit more power and nice DIY project.
i am saving to finish my project wich is 2.5 tt toyota soarer.

11th November 2010, 22:13

if i was doing it you would need

vtr:
engine
box (might cost more in the short term over the 1.1 box, but will cost less in fuel long term!)
mounts
loom
ecu
struts
arb
drop links
wishbones
two piece drive shaft
bigger brakes

the drum beam will be fine as already said the 106 xs only came with a drum beam and my mates 106 xsi with a 16v conversion with cams and he still had drums on the back with brembos on the front, and fiesta zetec's have drums on the back

15th November 2010, 03:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClumpyVtR

Not looking for an arguement here but there is no way drums are better than discs. I have rear vented discs with green stuff pads and mine will run all day (it loves it when theyre hot) and drum failure on a 1.1 vtr is nothing but dangerous. its not that difficult get a rear beam with discs for about 80 and just change the brake pipes so they fit the master system it shouldnt be a problem. if your going to do it then do it properly.

As said, my car came, from the factory with drums. And the exact same 1.6 8v engine as early VTRs. AND, it came with the solid front brake setup as 1.1s (now that's downright dangerous!).

Having used it time and time again on track, I never had any issues with lack of stopping power from the drums, they only do something along the lines of 10%-20% active braking anyway, so there's no real problem with them. Not to mention, handbrake systems are reknowned for being better on drum beams, since when the metal cools on discs, they contract, leaving the pads, meaning there's no handbrake, on drum setups, if the drum gets so hot that it expands, when it contracts as it cools, it contracts AGAINST the shoes, meaning the handbrake actually gets stronger.

I even kept the same drum beam when I went 16v, and again, never had any issues with the drum setup.

16th November 2010, 21:18

and what about 1.1 in too 1.4 is it involving all like on vtr conversion.

but i am thinking if its worth. my saxo after some servicing etc start geting 48mpg

24th November 2010, 22:21

you wont be going quick enough to need disks on the rear to be honest chap and drums actually give better brake recordings on mot rollers

26th November 2010, 09:04

^^^^^^

i know but they overheating and glazing then they are crap
but its more eficient system.

6th December 2010, 02:58

Do yourself a favour and fit a VTR beam with discs . . . If only for the fact they look oooo so much better under your alloys!! Not only that but it's soo much easier and cheaper to maintain discs and pads. In fact, you can even check pad wear without removing the wheel in most cases !! Plus you get a stiffer sportier torsion bar . . . And 4 stud hubs to boot !!Shop around and you can get one for under 50 squids (I was first quoted between 100-140 but found one in ACE breakers near dartford for 45!!) it's a like for like swap, no modifications necessary you can do it in an hour with a bit of help. you'll need a decent brake pipe spanner to avoid wrecking the brake line fittings and a good breaker bar will help you crack the bolts/nuts (nuts inside the car, under little black bungs). you might as well fit some polyrace bushes while it's on the floor too . . . Wicked upgrade if you ask me . . .

6th December 2010, 03:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by pug205gti87

you wont be going quick enough to need disks on the rear to be honest chap and drums actually give better brake recordings on mot rollers

Oh and that's not necessarily a good thing !! More braking effort on the rear doesn't mean overall better braking . . . Infact, sometimes quite the opposite is true!! Brake bias plays quite a big part in the handling of car but is so often overlooked!! it can and should be adjusted to suit the driving conditions, the weight of the car/passengers/luggage, suspension setup plus a million other variables !!

6th December 2010, 07:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTEsKee

Oh and that's not necessarily a good thing !! More braking effort on the rear doesn't mean overall better braking . . . Infact, sometimes quite the opposite is true!! Brake bias plays quite a big part in the handling of car but is so often overlooked!! it can and should be adjusted to suit the driving conditions, the weight of the car/passengers/luggage, suspension setup plus a million other variables !!

+1 on the rear discs though. it takes me a day and an age to get drums off and do shoes. too me a few hours on my first attempt to do my rear pads

8th December 2010, 02:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTEsKee

Do yourself a favour and fit a VTR beam with discs . . . If only for the fact they look oooo so much better under your alloys!! Not only that but it's soo much easier and cheaper to maintain discs and pads. In fact, you can even check pad wear without removing the wheel in most cases !! Plus you get a stiffer sportier torsion bar . . . And 4 stud hubs to boot !!Shop around and you can get one for under 50 squids (I was first quoted between 100-140 but found one in ACE breakers near dartford for 45!!) it's a like for like swap, no modifications necessary you can do it in an hour with a bit of help. you'll need a decent brake pipe spanner to avoid wrecking the brake line fittings and a good breaker bar will help you crack the bolts/nuts (nuts inside the car, under little black bungs). you might as well fit some polyrace bushes while it's on the floor too . . . Wicked upgrade if you ask me . . .

a lot of the 1.1s already have 4 stud hubs

8th December 2010, 11:32

I'd also go for a disk rear beam as it has a wider track than a drum one.

9th December 2010, 21:55

spacers pal