Rear beam has had it. Again.

24th January 2011, 15:28

Noticed some play in the trailing arms last summer so took her in and had the bearings replaced. Mechanic said there was 'a bit of wear' on the stubs but they should be ok.

Sadly the play has come back already leading me to think the stub axles were too far gone afterall

Just had a look on IM axles but they only specify non-VT and VT axles. I thaught VTS axles had a stiffer ARB to VTR ones? (22mm and 21mm ring a bell?)

If I do go down the route of replacing the beam, how much of a bitch is it to do yourself? Replacing the trailing beam on the other-half's corsa was a breeze, drop the hubs off and 2 bolts for the beam, but the photo's of the axles on IM's website sugest there might be some rear wheel bearing removal required as opposed to them being on hubs that can be removed from the arm?

Also, while the Oilite beam is supposedly stronger and more reliable for use on a lowered/stiffened Sax, I've heard there's some possible issues/drawbacks if used on a road car?

24th January 2011, 16:11

Its not that hard at all to change mate. Could do with another person jus to support the beam when dropping it and fitting again, but its very easy to do.

24th January 2011, 16:17

Are you looking to rebuild the beam yourself? We have a few different options, if its easier just give us a call and we can sort something out for you! 01949 869600

Cheers, Martin

24th January 2011, 17:17

Cheers for the reply, Martin.

I'm trying to keep the costs down so I'm looking at rebuild kits (Re-stubbed beam, stubs + Bearings or Oilite kit) rather than a full axle, but if the cost of parts plus paying a mechanic mate to do the work comes to more than an axle then I would be looking at doing a full axle swap myself.

24th January 2011, 18:34

Axel swap is fairly easy mate if you've got some common sense. Loosen off the handbrake cable via the nut under the exhaust heatshield, then remove the cables from the rear calipers. Disconnect the rear brake lines. Depending if you're getting new hubs or not take the hubs off with a puller. Undo the four bolts from inside then drop the beam down. Either get someone to help you do this or use a jack

24th January 2011, 18:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_O

Axel swap is fairly easy mate if you've got some common sense. Loosen off the handbrake cable via the nut under the exhaust heatshield, then remove the cables from the rear calipers. Disconnect the rear brake lines. Depending if you're getting new hubs or not take the hubs off with a puller. Undo the four bolts from inside then drop the beam down. Either get someone to help you do this or use a jack

The rear brake lines don't actually need disconnecting, ive done 2 beam swaps and both times I never disconnected the brake lines, I just unwrapped tge lines/calipers round the trailing arm, tiny bit tricky well mainly when putting beam back on you have to wrap them back round the right way but saves having to re bleed all the brakes etc

25th January 2011, 02:01

The brakes are getting bled anyway but if it comes to it I can just remove the calipers and cable tie them somewhere out the way. It looks and sounds simple enough it was just the hubs that I wasn't sure on, but if they just pull off then that's fine. I'm probably going to end up going with a rebuild kit though since a new beam would mean adding another £80 on with re-lowering it etc. I will have to get the calculator out! Cheers guys.

25th January 2011, 02:10

Better to build full new rear axel!! with all new parts,ive done few now.....

25th January 2011, 13:33

You dont have to do anything with the hubs. Hubs stay put.

25th January 2011, 13:45

something Ive found the best solution - buy a base model rear axle, rip the arms off it and use that. Theyre never worn as theyre seldom abused or lowered.