cam seals fitting 16v

30th January 2011, 13:49

i have just fit some cat 708 in my vts. i think i may have fit the cam seals incorrectly. i read in the haynes book i can change the cam seals without disturbing the ladders. is this true?

use x2 self tapping screws into the seals, use some gips to pull the old seals out then refit the now ones.

i have pressed mine in all the way back as was missinformed last night on here. its not the end of the world but this may block the oil way for the bearing.

so far all i have done is run the engine at 2,200 rpm for 15 minutes. the car has been up to 3/4 temp and oil 1/4 on the dials. i have not driven it.

stew

30th January 2011, 13:51

I've never tried it without removing the cam ladders - not sure how easy they'd come out tbh? Worth a try though

Yeh, there's a little oil hole, which is blocked up if you push the seals in too far - can't imagine you'll have done any damage though.

30th January 2011, 14:09

cant imagine the seals being that expensive so i will remove old ones and refit new.

cant find a cam seal guide on here

30th January 2011, 14:26

thinkig about it you can change the crank seal with the crank in place (have seen a guide on here). dont see why i cant change cam seals same way. also the cam isnt a tight gripping fit on the seal as the cam needs to spin inside the seal.

im trying to convince myself

30th January 2011, 14:34

just read the other thread dude, really sorry if john is right, ive alway know them to seat right back.... even what you quoted from the haynes would suggest that. but as said i apologise if john is right.....

30th January 2011, 14:52

its fine, i wasnt going to name and shame but you are decent enough to do so yourself publicly.

so have you fit them to many 16v saxos? just wondering if it made a difference? its the return that gets blocked.

30th January 2011, 15:01

i have seen them on some engines before, but on the engines ive seen them on there normally is a small locating collar which stops the seal going too far in and blocking them, i wouldnt see it doing any harm being bloced tbh.... itll only be to drain the oil that gets up to the seal...... see what others think on the matter....?

by what youve quoted from the haynes book it would suggest as i did?..... but im not going to question johns knowledge on saxo engines lol as he'll know better then most! ..... whay not try ringing him up and asking him what he thinks about the seal being right back and blcing the drain

30th January 2011, 15:05

not good to block the drain as oil won't circulate, i've usually just fitted the cam seals slightly past flush,say 2 mm recessed

30th January 2011, 15:06

and,yes,they can be fitted without lifting the ladders with no problem

30th January 2011, 15:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by mandyslover70

and,yes,they can be fitted without lifting the ladders with no problem

phew thanks

cant find cam seals on ebay so think i will be ringing gmc in the am to get a set delivered.

blackie, if i knew you any better id ask you to pay for them

30th January 2011, 15:16

Been told by a few people that the genuine Peugeot/ Citroen cam seals are better quality rubber.

IIRC, they're only a couple of quid from the dealers.

30th January 2011, 15:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeumH

Been told by a few people that the genuine Peugeot/ Citroen cam seals are better quality rubber.

IIRC, they're only a couple of quid from the dealers.

agreed, not a whole lot of money for peace of mind.

1st February 2011, 17:11

£29! in fact cheers blackie!

1st February 2011, 17:14

For two camshaft oil seals?

I got one for my VTR from Citroen a couple of years ago - cost me £3!

1st February 2011, 17:23

vtr are not the same