2000 1124cc - Bleeding brakes

  1. #1
    Hey all

    I am using Gunson's eezibleed system.

    Starting at the NSR as per Haynes...........I went to the OSR.

    Now the Bendix system, are they all normally an internal bleed nipple?

    I have not seen one like it before, it's either this or someone previous has sheared off the nipple.

    Upon seeing what came out the NSR I don't think the fluid has ever been changed

    Any light appreciated!

    Mike
  2. #2
    Sounds like the bleed screw has broken off if you cant see it
  3. #3
    Yeah sounds like it mate

    Bollocks. lol
  4. #4
    Also, would anyone know the bleed nipple specification on the Bendix system?

    E.g. M8x1.25 etc etc
  5. #5
    bleeding brake kits don't work anyhow. It sucks air in past the thread on the nipple [assuming there is a nipple of course]

    Incidentally the nipple has sheared off on mine and I couldn't get it out with an eezyout- the eezyout just snapped like they always do. So I loosened the end of the flexible brake pipe [where it goes into the caliper] and got somebody to press the brake pedal, then nipped it up for the upstrokes, to bleed the system.
  6. #6
    Why when its a constant pressure system? I couldn't see any extra air each time I closed the NSR nipple, I let it build pressure then open it quickly, works well on the face of it.

    A friend said his 106 brakes are the same, nothing works until at least 60% pedal travel. I'm checking shoe adjusters asap.

    Cheers for help though!
  7. #7
    check for slack in the linkage - under the black cover on the bulkhead under the bonnet infront of the steering wheel (if that makes sense?!). 13mm spanner, undo lock nut and take up the slack...don't tighten too much or your brakes will jam on (ask me how i know )
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by niallmoran View Post
    check for slack in the linkage - under the black cover on the bulkhead under the bonnet infront of the steering wheel (if that makes sense?!). 13mm spanner, undo lock nut and take up the slack...don't tighten too much or your brakes will jam on (ask me how i know )
    Yep done that mate!
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Biz View Post
    Why when its a constant pressure system? I couldn't see any extra air each time I closed the NSR nipple, I let it build pressure then open it quickly, works well on the face of it.

    A friend said his 106 brakes are the same, nothing works until at least 60% pedal travel. I'm checking shoe adjusters asap.

    Cheers for help though!
    I'm not sure if you're answering me. I tried a self bleeding kit, you have transparent tube and a one way valve on the end of it and put that in a jam jar. When you watch the fluid come out its fine, but when your mate lifts the pedal, air is sucked up past the thread on the loosened nipple. Then on the next downstroke you can see a batch of bubbles come down the tube.
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Railroader View Post
    I'm not sure if you're answering me. I tried a self bleeding kit, you have transparent tube and a one way valve on the end of it and put that in a jam jar. When you watch the fluid come out its fine, but when your mate lifts the pedal, air is sucked up past the thread on the loosened nipple. Then on the next downstroke you can see a batch of bubbles come down the tube.
    Yeah I was mate

    Well yeah it will bypass an open nipple.

    These brakes really are shit for an OEM set-up, took apart the shoes, cleaned and greased the self adjusting mechanism, still feels better than before.

    Another issues has raised its head though, driving forward nothing from the front end and braking is as per required............reversing on the other hand, the front end emits a binding noise.

    During reversing I apply the brakes lightly to find the noise reduces. I havent touched the fronts at all.

    I'm thinking the pad shape

    Any thoughts or previous experience much welcomed!
    Cheers