Heater blower motor stuck on full blow

  1. #1
    Well, since a couple of days my 1.1i will start the heater blower on max as soon as I start the engine, regardless of what I set the heater blower switch to - IE, I can't even turn it off.

    I've had the switch out, and as far as I could see and measure with my multimeter, it checks out OK.

    I also started the engine with the switch disconnected with no difference, it's still stuck on max...

    Pulling the F2-fuse kills the noisy blower, but of course my PAS as well... Do I have to replace the blower motor, or have I missed something on the way?
  2. #2
    thats a weird one, what happens if you leave the switch unplugged?
  3. #3
    It keeps running on full blow...

    The switch as far as I understand selects between different resistors, and then connects to a connector with two wires - if these wires were shorted I guess this behavior would show. Is there any logical explanation for such an event?

    If the blower motor resistor was blown, what behavior would be expected then?
  4. #4
    the resistor may be bridging out an causing it to run on full power
  5. #5
    The funny thing is that this has happened before - but those times I could get it to slow down by very slowly and carefully turning the switch around through the clicks, but now that doesn't work anymore...

    If you would disconnect the switch on a healthy saxo, would the fan then turn off, or go at full blow?
  6. #6
    it should turn off as it looses its like, it could be a faulty switch like
  7. #7
    check your rheo stat. These arn't common faults of the rheo stat but it's a possibility it could be that.

    Normally if your rheo stat goes the blower will only work on full chat and will simply turn off at any other selected speed.

    Check your wiring aswell, check for any breaks in the insulation etc. If you want a cheap and easy fix though just un-plug your blower motor
  8. #8
    weird... Since the problem persits with the switch disconnected (right now I have the switch on my desk and a loose connector hanging out of the facia) I'll take another look at the connector. If I understand this correctly a short circuit between the two wires in the connector would give these symptoms?
  9. #9
    Oh, missed your reply there bourny - thanks for the input!

    The rheostat is mounted on the blower motor itself, right? There's no way to check it without removing the whole motor? I'm not exactly thrilled about having to remove the entire facia in this crappy Swedish weather

    The cheap and easy fix sounds tempting - do you know if the wiring is accessible without removing the facia? I thought of pulling the fuse, but quickly found out that that took care of my PAS as well... Does the same thing go for the blower motor relay?

    And also, if I were to remove the whole motor - how do I check the rheostat?
  10. #10
    I have the same problem since today ... any ideas?

    Thanks!
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Toasted View Post
    Oh, missed your reply there bourny - thanks for the input!

    The rheostat is mounted on the blower motor itself, right? There's no way to check it without removing the whole motor? I'm not exactly thrilled about having to remove the entire facia in this crappy Swedish weather

    The cheap and easy fix sounds tempting - do you know if the wiring is accessible without removing the facia? I thought of pulling the fuse, but quickly found out that that took care of my PAS as well... Does the same thing go for the blower motor relay?

    And also, if I were to remove the whole motor - how do I check the rheostat?
    You don`t have remove the entire dashboard to take out the blower motor.The motor is located on the drivers side,so if you remove the steering column shrouds,then look up into the dash(far right)you`ll see the motor connected to the air ducting.I`m pretty sure the resistor pack on the motor is faulty mate.