cutting out when dipping clutch

  1. #1
    ok, ive been looking into what can cause the car to cut out at junctions, and i cant work out if its the ICV or the coilpack.

    Ive had the ICV off and its sweaky clean, as is the throttlebody. I have no EML on - is there a way to work out whats up with it? Ir do i have to throw money and sensors at it until its sorted?

    Its never either when its cold or hot, its intermittent if im honest.
  2. #2
    I swapped my sparkies the other week, sorted my problem.

    Not sure if it was because i played with the coil pack or if it was the plugs but it did good as i havent stalled since.

    get the most expensive ones at halfords, they are pretty damn good
  3. #3
    Could it be to do with your car being cammed but not mapped?
  4. #4
    tps???
  5. #5
    Nah it still idles ok to be honest even without the remap.

    Im thinking its something to do with the battery as my stereo and clock reset yesterday when it was happening the most. Going to go out and remove, clean and reconnect the battery terminals.

    Its not done it this morning when i drove in :s
  6. #6
    So dose it only happen as you come back down to ilde, like as you drop the revs they dnt stop and just cut out? And sometimes drop low and then kick up again?
  7. #7
    Yeah exactly. It did it every time i dipped the clutch on the way home last night.

    This morning it didnt do it at all and settled nicely.
  8. #8
    Hmm it can be something to do with the cams, as icv really not great ones the engine is cammed as such.

    Dnt think it will be the coil pack, and not the tos as that other guy said. It really sound like it because it cammed as such as my engine when I just had cams in and unmapped, it used to be like that some times ok others cutting out. But icv really dnt help, my ilde with bodies is soo much better.
  9. #9
    Im thinking that when its been up to high revs, perhaps the ICV is sticking. I came out of the supermarket today on the way to work and span the wheels in the wet accidentally, going up to almost the limiter.

    As soon as i did this it cut out every single time i dropped the clutch, and the revs fall really fast.

    When i pulled up to the gate to get into work it cut out. I started it off the key, and then it idled fine.


    The times when it hasnt done it was my usual sub 3k revs bimble.

    The plot thickens.
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by pjw View Post
    Im thinking that when its been up to high revs, perhaps the ICV is sticking. I came out of the supermarket today on the way to work and span the wheels in the wet accidentally, going up to almost the limiter.

    As soon as i did this it cut out every single time i dropped the clutch, and the revs fall really fast.

    When i pulled up to the gate to get into work it cut out. I started it off the key, and then it idled fine.


    The times when it hasnt done it was my usual sub 3k revs bimble.

    The plot thickens.
    Realy does sound like your setting are out mate somewhere!! had this with other vts "s ive had....
  11. #11
    Mine done this it was the throttle potentiometer
  12. #12
    Yours cut out after it had been ragged? New position sensor on the way, might help.

    It is only after its been past 6krpm.
  13. #13
    Mate really, dnt need all these sensor as it cammed without correction to the map, so some thing are out due to cams so the ecu is not correcting correctly all the time might did it on standard ecu with ph3 cams.

    Get it mapped will help.
  14. #14
    fuel pump?
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AndySAXO View Post
    Mate really, dnt need all these sensor as it cammed without correction to the map, so some thing are out due to cams so the ecu is not correcting correctly all the time might did it on standard ecu with ph3 cams.

    Get it mapped will help.
    Its not just the cams though. Id idles like a sack of shit at times, then others its ok. Sometimes its rough on startup, its off and on. If it was the map surely it would be constant..
  16. #16
    It wouldn't be constant if it was map, a friends map sensor went at the weekend, we ha diagnostics on and pointed to that, I actually thought it was lambda at first since it sounded like a subaru lol

    I think in all honesty diagnostics should be the first thing, even if the light isn't on the Ecu can still store fault codes etc. So for the £40 quid you will know whats right and wrong, rather than spend slot of time effort and money going on a sensor change mission, because it could something as simple as the engine temp sensor, or it could be icv

    Also you should really get diagnostics done and this problem sorted before you go for a remap cause 8/10 id say the mapper will just map over the fault and it will still be stored on the ecu, and the issue still hidden there. I know others will disagree but I seen it this weekend, a mate had a lot of fault codes and couple of running issues with a cammed 16v and he had a remap an it ran worse than a non mapped engine, with the faults still there

    Like I said diagnostics is your best option here rather than ponder over it for ages and replace all the sensors mentioned on here and to then find it could be something very simple, it may cost £40 and upwards on diagnostics as they will charge an hourly rate even if they spend 15mins on the car, but it's better than spending £150 on sensors and still have the problem
  17. #17
    No, as at the moment the ecu is having to do alot of correction as to the ecu the engine I'd not right so it dosent know what to correct to try get the best for the engine as such.

    Mine was like this would be fine and ilde and drive well, then some times coming back to ilde and some times it would just cut out and others would drop the rev really low then save itself and ilde again.

    You need to remember, that the ecu map is not set for that cans you have so, the furling it not going to be right.
  18. #18
    Yer could be a fualt, but I am saying it more to do with the cams.
  19. #19
    Appreciate the info guys, thanks. Ive got an OBD2 cable - think ill give it a go. I never bothered as the EML wasnt lit.
  20. #20
    Yer Saxo system not great can still have faults and no light.
  21. #21
    this happens with my vtr, i have a wild cam fitted, and once ive blasted up to 5k the car idles like shit. dipping below normal idle revs, and cuts out in bad places, including bogging down when i try to make a run onto roundabouts. alot of close calls i can tell ya. id put my money on the cams timing if honest