Important! : Quick query / which Lambda Sensor do I need?!

2nd March 2011, 21:02

As above. I need the lambda that plugs into the manifold and then leads to the bay area..?! It's the only one I have on my car anyway, just need someone to link me to the right one.. Would I need a Furio one due to the car originally being a Furio, or a VTS one? Or does it not matter? - http://www.eurocarparts.com/lambda-sensor

Basically, during the emissions test in my recent MOT the car's temperature shot right up when they were doing the test (holding the cars revs at whatever rpm they do when doing the emissions test). I found this hard to believe as the temp never even goes above half when driving or stuck in traffic. They guy seems to think it is the lambda, can't remember exactly what he said now but he seemed pretty certain thats what the cause was.. Unless anyone has any other ideas? To sum up, car never ever runs hot when driving or sat in traffic, or on idle but apparently when this test was done and the rpm held at a certain amount, it went up near the red

Cheeeeers

2nd March 2011, 21:20

Engine coolant temperate is nothing to do with a lambda reading, although they won't do an emissions test if your car is overheating. No idea how he has linked the two.

Anyway, if you wanted a new sensor, you would need this ---> Bosch Lambda Sensor.

2nd March 2011, 21:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

Engine coolant temperate is nothing to do with a lambda reading, although they won't do an emissions test if your car is overheating. No idea how he has linked the two.

Anyway, if you wanted a new sensor, you would need this ---> Bosch Lambda Sensor.

Yeah they couldn't complete the emissions test due to it overheating. I'm sure he said that the levels were fluctuating or it seemed to be running a bit rich so he was pretty sure it was the Lambda causing it... I can't really think of anything else it could be tbh??! Like I said the temperature is fine at all other times

Doesn't make sense...

As for the Lambda link you posted, why is that the one to go for over like the other Bosch ones for less money etc?

2nd March 2011, 22:35

The ones for £56.34 and £63.60 have no end connectors on so you would have to cut your old one off and solder it back on.

2nd March 2011, 23:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

The ones for £56.34 and £63.60 have no end connectors on so you would have to cut your old one off and solder it back on.

Cheers dude.

--

Anyone else got any more input/ideas about the overheating problem when doing the emissions test? I don't really want to blow £80 on a Lambda sensor if that's not the issue!

2nd March 2011, 23:33

What happens if you dont have the temperature sensors plugged in then they cant say its over heating?

2nd March 2011, 23:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krys_23

What happens if you dont have the temperature sensors plugged in then they cant say its over heating?

But it was overheating, they were saying that when they held it at the required rpm to test the emissions the temp guage went up in the red so they had to stop

2nd March 2011, 23:55

Flush the cooling system out, refill it with new antifreeze and bleed it using a bottle on the expansion tank and all the bleed valves. Then run your car yourself at fast idle (once it's already warmed up) and make sure the fan cuts in when the temperature is showing above half way. If it's not, you may need a new Radiator Switch or Thermostat.

3rd March 2011, 00:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

Flush the cooling system out, refill it with new antifreeze and bleed it using a bottle on the expansion tank and all the bleed valves. Then run your car yourself at fast idle (once it's already warmed up) and make sure the fan cuts in when the temperature is showing above half way. If it's not, you may need a new Radiator Switch or Thermostat.

Thanks for the tips but would this still need doing because as said; on idle, the temp goes to half way, fan kicks in etc, doesn't go any higher. Same when sat in traffic and when driving normally or even aggressively the temp doesn't go over half way! When I first fitted the VTS engine like 2 years ago we had a problem then with an air block so I know it's nothing like that as back then I couldn't even drive down the road without the temp going up to the red. Just seems strange that it's "apparently" happening when held at a certain rpm and not at any other times

3rd March 2011, 00:31

You sure its not the air filter blocked, or a shitty open cone thing? I bought a car with an open filter and it sat on idle hot as fuck, put a bmc on and routed it better then it sat at 1/4 all the time!

3rd March 2011, 00:35

Yes it sounds very dodgy to me. Im sure the re-test fee has alot to do with the 'over heating'

. If your confident it is running ok, then the best thing to do would be to take it back to the garage and say you have replaced the lambda sensor with a known working one and wait with your car while they do the emissions test.

3rd March 2011, 00:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krys_23

You sure its not the air filter blocked, or a shitty open cone thing? I bought a car with an open filter and it sat on idle hot as fuck, put a bmc on and routed it better then it sat at 1/4 all the time!

Nah, running standard air set up pal! It really is puzzling me!

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

Yes it sounds very dodgy to me. Im sure the re-test fee has alot to do with the 'over heating'

. If your confident it is running ok, then the best thing to do would be to take it back to the garage and say you have replaced the lambda sensor with a known working one and wait with your car while they do the emissions test.

Yeah I thought that but it's not the only thing it has failed on so don't see why it would be worth their while in lying

It is a weird one though, especially because it never over heats.

Cheers for all your replies