Overheating when run

  1. #1
    Hi! I try to explain the overheating problem of my '00 VTR.

    I've changed thermostat(OEM),coolant sensor,radiator,antifreeze(OEM) and bledding much times, and here is the problem.

    When idling temp ok all the time, when running slowly (in city or open track but down 3k rpm) temp ok, but when in motorway at middle-high speed or high rpm, temp goes up slowly but constant to red zone. When i turn back to slow, temperature raises low down to normal zone (in the middle of gauge).

    I don't understand what's happening in this car....i've changed everything but seems to be the same...


    P.D. Sorry for my english, i don't practice so much here in spain
  2. #2
    get a oil radiator.. lowering oil temp, you lower water temp..

    but its still strange
  3. #3
    either your headgasket is gone

    or you water pump isnt working
  4. #4
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by blackie_2k5 View Post
    either your headgasket is gone

    or you water pump isnt working
    Good points^

    Also possibly your radiator has corroded so does not have the surface area of the cooling fins to keep the temps down when the engine is working hard.
  5. #5
    Check your head gasket to be safe, my guess would be the radiator or fan belt.
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Venns View Post
    Check your head gasket to be safe, my guess would be the radiator or fan belt.
    No fan belt - fan is electric on Saxo (and most cars built after the 70's!)
  7. #7
    an is irrelevant on the motorway anyway, at that speeds that is where your car is cooling best, so if youve not got a headgasket or water pump issues, then youve got a blockage in the cooling system

    quite possibley as pointed out...the radiator
  8. #8
    Radiator is new, water pump don't have leaks and have 2 years mounted, i've changed when changed the timing belt. No water consumition. No leaks.
  9. #9
    Have you bled the heater matrix properly? I had this problem on a saxo I serviced a couple of years ago. When the heater matrix was airl-ocked the car would over heat, once I had removed the pipes, let the airlock out, filled it with coolant and quickly put the pipes back on all was fine.
  10. #10
    Did you use a header tank to fill the system? Pretty sure one is need to stop airlocks in the matrix as Gandi699 has explained.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by rumble291 View Post
    Did you use a header tank to fill the system? Pretty sure one is need to stop airlocks in the matrix as Gandi699 has explained.
    Yeah that method above or blow it through yourself using your mouth to put it under a little pressure to force the air out. Be careful if you do that though, coolant is poisonous if you swallow it
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by icgrup View Post
    Radiator is new, water pump don't have leaks and have 2 years mounted, i've changed when changed the timing belt. No water consumition. No leaks.
    2 years is enough time to make the teeth's disappear lol
  13. #13
    Does the overheat light come on?

    Could be a faulty temp gauge? Temp sensor??
  14. #14
    what is the matrix?? the water pump have 2 years but only 1.000 miles....
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Quick View Post
    Does the overheat light come on?

    Could be a faulty temp gauge? Temp sensor??
    Sensor & gauge are both new
  16. #16
    nobody knows?? help please!!
  17. #17
    Only remains to change water pump & coolant sensor (blue)...coolant sensor (brown) have changed yet.

    Help!!
  18. #18
    definately bled it right? i thought i'd bled one properly until the radiator started boiling!!
  19. #19
    Sounds like a blockage in the system somewhere, as said make sure the system is bled of all the air.
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  20. #20
    Yesterday i replace the coolant sensor (blue in the head), but when i take off the old one, no coolant in the hole...pug official service tolds me that it's normal, because it's a thermal sensor (works with head temperature, not coolant temperature), anybody knows that??