Gloss Black Bumpers + Bump Strips. (2 Tone VTR)

11th July 2011, 23:19

I'm toying with the idea of gloss black bumpers and bump strips.

My rear bumper (The black part) has had a re-spray in the past (Think it might had been scratched on something) and the texture on it is quite rough and the back to black stuff just doesn't like it. Always left with awful water marks and looks naff.

I'm thinking about glossing everything black. (Except the sun roof surround)

I could take the panels off the car, but i think it would be just as easy if i left them on.

I would take the easier option of using filler to fill up the little pimples on the Original bumper and bump strips, then i would sand it down. You need a ultra smooth surface to start with otherwise the paint peels away. I don't want to spend ages sending the plastic bumpers when i can just apply a film of filler over it.

I'm also thinking of taking the VTR badge off the side, and filling this recess in. Would it be ok to fill with filler, or should i apply fibre glass gourse (sp?) into the recess then fill from this?

What do people think of this idea. A photo shop would be ideal of a 2 tone VTR (I Have gloss black cyclones too)

Thanks
Dan

12th July 2011, 00:20

I'd like to know this too I was thinking of doing the bump strips all round gloss black, just want to get them off without damaging anything haha

Thanks

12th July 2011, 00:33

You can't take the bump strips off, or the bumpers like you do on the 106's. You will have to take the whole bottom panel off and both bumpers, you're still running the risk of scratching the paint work on the car and on the panel then.

The ony way i can think of NOT damaging the cars paint work is peel back the panel at the top and be uber careful when near the panel its self.

12th July 2011, 00:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

I would take the easier option of using filler to fill up the little pimples on the Original bumper and bump strips, then i would sand it down. You need a ultra smooth surface to start with otherwise the paint peels away. I don't want to spend ages sending the plastic bumpers when i can just apply a film of filler over it.

I'm also thinking of taking the VTR badge off the side, and filling this recess in. Would it be ok to fill with filler, or should i apply fibre glass gourse (sp?) into the recess then fill from this?

firstly do not fill over the bumpers to get them smooth, thats just a stupid idea because if you wanted filler to stick you need to sand down whatever you are filling, so sanding down the trim then applying filler and then sanding down is pointless and a waste of time, just sand down the trim going through the grades and use a good quality high build primer

for the badge recess to do it properly it needs plastic welding up, don't just fill it, it will sink/crack

12th July 2011, 00:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

firstly do not fill over the bumpers to get them smooth, thats just a stupid idea because if you wanted filler to stick you need to sand down whatever you are filling, so sanding down the trim then applying filler and then sanding down is pointless and a waste of time, just sand down the trim going through the grades and use a good quality high build primer

for the badge recess to do it properly it needs plastic welding up, don't just fill it, it will sink/crack

I see where your coming from Beckford.

I should had made my self clearer. I wasn't going to apply filler direct to the dimples on the trim. I was going to go over it with different grade paper, so its almost flat, better then it was then apply filler. just a very small coat of the stuff, enough so the top of the dimples are visible but the filler covers the recess's of the dimples.

As Example:

Can you get different % of shine with laqure? If so,, perhaps only 30/ 40%.. So

12th July 2011, 00:55

do not fill over them, just sand them down and apply high build primer

different percentage of lacquer? no, its just down to quality of the lacquer and temperature/time of day you do it, if the lacquer looks crap its down to you tbh, not the product

12th July 2011, 01:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

different percentage of lacquer? no, its just down to quality of the lacquer and temperature/time of day you do it, if the lacquer looks crap its down to you tbh, not the product

bull shit if its cheap lacquer then its never going to shine no matter how good you are at putting it on.

realistically mate unless you use a propper good quality clear coat then its never going to have a decent depth of gloss dont get me wrong it will look shiney but nowhere near the gloss a propper 2k clear coat will give done in a booth. And its all about the clear coat not just the way or who puts it on.

Also every time i have smoothed saxo bump strips i have used a plastic filler to smooth them before painting its a hell of a lot quicker and it doesnt take half as long to rub the filler as it does to rub the plastic smooth.

12th July 2011, 01:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedford126

bull shit if its cheap lacquer then its never going to shine no matter how good you are at putting it on.

if you say so

and L O L at you skimming over plastic with filler, thats fucking lazy

12th July 2011, 01:04

da sander on the rubstrips, takes no time to get them smooth

12th July 2011, 01:05

lazy? no i just know what im doing mate.

12th July 2011, 01:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

do not fill over them, just sand them down and apply high build primer

different percentage of lacquer? no, its just down to quality of the lacquer and temperature/time of day you do it, if the lacquer looks crap its down to you tbh, not the product

High build primer? Basically body filler? I am a Carpenter so i use filler on a daily basis, I know how to mix it up and apply it and work with it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedford126

bull shit if its cheap lacquer then its never going to shine no matter how good you are at putting it on.

realistically mate unless you use a propper good quality clear coat then its never going to have a decent depth of gloss dont get me wrong it will look shiney but nowhere near the gloss a propper 2k clear coat will give done in a booth. And its all about the clear coat not just the way or who puts it on.

Also every time i have smoothed saxo bump strips i have used a plastic filler to smooth them before painting its a hell of a lot quicker and it doesnt take half as long to rub the filler as it does to rub the plastic smooth.

What is Plastic Filler? Were you using the same process as i basically just described?

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

if you say so

and L O L at you skimming over plastic with filler, thats fucking lazy

Quicker way and your guaranteed a 99% smooth finish? Just an idea (Awaits a body shop professional to reply)

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=322988

His done a good job tbh. But i'd took the front and rear bumper off to get behind the headlight. I'm fussy.

12th July 2011, 01:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedford126

no i just know what im doing mate.

if you did you wouldn't skim filler over plastics to remove the dimples/texture

12th July 2011, 01:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

High build primer? Basically body filler?

high build primer is nothing like body filler

12th July 2011, 01:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

Quicker way and your guaranteed a 99% smooth finish? Just an idea (Awaits a body shop professional to reply)

its not quicker tbh, have to wait for filler to dry etc, just use a da sander and the texture is smooth in no time

12th July 2011, 01:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

high build primer is nothing like body filler

Not reading straight.

So you would apply several coats of high build primer over the top of the bumpers? (I do know what this stuff is)

And yes, i would use high build primer as a primer.

Bed time i think.

12th July 2011, 01:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

high build primer is nothing like body filler

You really do know fuck all. all high build primers are basically fillers that are sprayed on. They all contain the same contents only difference is the viscosity.

And the filler i use mate is mate by plastic padding for the trade and is made just for plastics. Any decent trade supply's place should sell it and yes more or less the same way as you described. Just make sure you use a speciality plastic filler and not a general "Body filler".

12th July 2011, 01:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

So you would apply several coats of high build primer over the top of the bumpers? (I do know what this stuff is)

sand the rubstrips with da sander working through the grades, 180-320-400, 2 coats of high build, da sand with 400-600, 2-3 coats of primer, wet sand with 1000 paint and clear coat

12th July 2011, 01:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedford126

You really do know fuck all.

yes i know nothing, L O L, thats why i have a long waiting list in my area for me to work on peoples cars and i'm highly paid at my other job too

yes i know nothing

12th July 2011, 01:14

Thanks guys.

I fully understand what you mean bedford, half asleep here.

Good night/ morning x. I'll post back soon.

12th July 2011, 01:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

sand the rubstrips with da sander working through the grades, 180-320-400, 2 coats of high build, da sand with 400-600, 2-3 coats of primer, wet sand with 1000 paint and clear coat

Btw, how on earth do you expect me to get a DA sander up close to the paint work of the car?

'll use apiece of sand paper on a block,

12th July 2011, 01:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

Btw, how on earth do you expect me to get a DA sander up close to the paint work of the car?

by not being lazy and remove the parts from the car, will get alot better finish if you remove it all

12th July 2011, 01:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

by not being lazy and remove the parts from the car, will get alot better finish if you remove it all

You can NOT remove the black trim from the side, the black trim is part of the bottom panel on VTR/VTS. So you'd e removing basically a whole panel.

12th July 2011, 01:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

You can NOT remove the black trim from the side, the black trim is part of the bottom panel on VTR/VTS. So you'd be removing basically a whole panel.

i know, i'm not stupid, and you use masking tape along the edges of the trim and be careful with the da and grip it tighter when your near the painted edge

12th July 2011, 01:23

Thank you Beckford... I dont think i'll use a DA, they are a bit wild at the best of times (I use them daily, i work in a wood working shop, so i know how they are)

12th July 2011, 01:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

Thank you Beckford... I dont think i'll use a DA, they are a bit wild at the best of times

how you use them tbh

12th July 2011, 01:27

I'm guessing you have a airline and a Makia DA? There very good for control but we just have a few Bosch DA's at work, vibrate like mad.

12th July 2011, 01:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

I'm guessing you have a airline and a Makia DA? There very good for control but we just have a few Bosch DA's at work, vibrate like mad.

i have a range of elec and air da's

12th July 2011, 01:31

So, what do you think it would look like on a 2 tone VTR.. I already have gloss black wheels

<----

12th July 2011, 01:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by logic_guy

So, what do you think it would look like on a 2 tone VTR.. I already have gloss black wheels

<----

doesn't matter what i think, its your car, do what you want to do to it

12th July 2011, 08:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckford

doesn't matter what i think, its your car, do what you want to do to it

Uhh, he's just asking for an opinion. No need for that.

I think it'll look great, was thinking of doing a similar thing myself. Hope it goes well!

13th July 2011, 04:24

Would love some pictures when its done just to see how it goes together the colours i mean