Reinforcing suspension

  1. #1
    Hi all

    I am driving another Saxo 1.1 desire on a charity rally - this time to Uganda in Africa

    Last time the rear suspension virtually disintegrated by the time we got to Mongolia and the car was folding in on itself. I had to hammer out the inner wheel arches as they were folding into the wheels every 2-3 days

    Any1 have any ideas what I can do to reinforce the suspension?

    cheers

    Kurtis
    www.teamroadkill.co.uk
  2. #2
    Unfortunately, nothing.

    You'd be best swapping the rear axle with one from a vtr or vts as it's a little stiffer but unfortunately there's nothing you can do about the trailing arm bearings collapsing unless you want to rebuild a beam.
  3. #3
    I take it this is meant to be cheap so things like rally spec coilovers are out of the question. Maybe fit some beefed up bump stops ? Or welding on a helper spring maybe? Might make it a little way-word in the handling department though
  4. #4
    Are Ugandan roads really really bad? A beam can last over 100k, sure you didnt just get a shit beam to start with? Same with the car, although I dont know how bad the roads over there actually are.

    If you want a beam thats durable and up to the job then take a look at 'IM Axles' not sure if they do recovery in Uganda though under warrenty.
  5. #5
    this time i suggest you make sure the axle is a good one --no way the radius arms bearings would destroy themselves in that distance if they were good to start with .

    a PROPER roll cage that has pickup points onto the rear axle mounts will stop the shell distorting .the suspension loads will then go directly into the cage and be spread about.
    set ride height at rear with all the weight in the car ( camping equip and spares etc ),at std height fully loaded
  6. #6
    Sounds like the body work was failing rather than the beam from what he says. You could make up some strenghening plates in an L shape to weld onto the boot floor and the verticle parts of the innner wheel arch. Your first car may have been rotten in this area - it is quite a common place for them to go. I guess some sort of cage will be out of the question due to the room it takes up?
  7. #7
    Thanks for all the input guys - alot to think about there, I might fit some beefed up bump stops and weld on a helper spring and see how it drives.

    The last car I drove to Mongolia, distance about 11k miles and it had only done 51k miles from new. The roads in Mongolia are worse than non existant, imagine driving across a big pile of rocks for 10 days. There are actually some good roads this time on my route to Uganda so hopefully wont be as bad this time

    cheers all
  8. #8
    as john sais, put all your gear in the car, then heaighten the suspension so its at standard height, then youve got the full travel to absorb the rough roads, otherwise the travel youll get will be minimal and will bottom out transfering the energy through the chasis/radius arms/bearings

    as said it sounds like the car you got had a dodgey axle to start with, this was probs your problem... better checking this time round
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by blackie_2k5 View Post
    as john sais, put all your gear in the car, then heaighten the suspension so its at standard height, then youve got the full travel to absorb the rough roads, otherwise the travel youll get will be minimal and will bottom out transfering the energy through the chasis/radius arms/bearings

    as said it sounds like the car you got had a dodgey axle to start with, this was probs your problem... better checking this time round
    Thanks for the advice - how do I hieghten the suspension? - is it in the workshop manual

    cheers

    Kurtis
  10. #10
    Google it mate!, take the torsion bars out. Move trailing arms down in your case. Measure how much the car drops with the weight loaded, that way you know how much to raise it.
  11. #11
    weld it solid? or is the suspension needed lol