Argh!!! Saxo Broke

2nd August 2011, 21:26

Hey Guys,

Took my saxo in to the garage on Saturday as it was creaking and knocking quite a bit from the front end. Left it with them to have a look and awaited the call.

Got a phone call bit later basically informing me it's FUCKED!! So went back up so the lad could show me whats wrong... heres my list of what bits need fixing/replacing...

- Steering Rack Gaitor
- Steering Rack Noisy
- N/S/F Track Rod End
- Both Front Bottom Ball Joints
- N/S/F Out CV Joint Worn and Noisy
- Rear Beam Radius Arms
- O/S/R Shocker Badly Leaking
- 3 Tyres almost ilegal

And to top it off not been allowed it back as it is to dangerous to drive. Am just waiting for the guy to give me call for a quote to repair.

Anyone able give me a rough quote?

Thanks xx

2nd August 2011, 21:29

Probably more than the cars worth tbh and they carnt stop you driving it away. The can advise you not to drive it but its your car not theirs they say you carnt have it back so your in a catch 22.

2nd August 2011, 21:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by nixinoo

Hey Guys,

Took my saxo in to the garage on Saturday as it was creaking and knocking quite a bit from the front end. Left it with them to have a look and awaited the call.

Got a phone call bit later basically informing me it's FUCKED!! So went back up so the lad could show me whats wrong... heres my list of what bits need fixing/replacing...

- Steering Rack Gaitor
- Steering Rack Noisy
- N/S/F Track Rod End
- Both Front Bottom Ball Joints
- N/S/F Out CV Joint Worn and Noisy
- Rear Beam Radius Arms
- O/S/R Shocker Badly Leaking
- 3 Tyres almost ilegal

And to top it off not been allowed it back as it is to dangerous to drive. Am just waiting for the guy to give me call for a quote to repair.

Anyone able give me a rough quote?

Thanks xx

They can't keep it. Get it back and take it somewhere else for another quote.

To me that sounds fishy, yes it may have problems that need fixing, but they are hoping you'll listen to them and let them do the work, some of which may not even need doing.

Shop around.

Dave.

2nd August 2011, 21:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by JA3llis

Probably more than the cars worth tbh and they carnt stop you driving it away. The can advise you not to drive it but its your car not theirs they say you carnt have it back so your in a catch 22.

Well he said he didnt want me driving it, but i can fix it at home if i can do the bits needed, so can get it towed or trailered.

but i was thinking it may be more than the car is worth, i brought it for £680, already replaced clutch, put 2nd hand gearbox in and had it lowered so thats £300 spent on it so far and not really had a chance to modify it how i want it

2nd August 2011, 21:35

If you had it lowered who ever did it should of noticed the bushes are worn on the bar when the removed the torsion bar to lower?

2nd August 2011, 21:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by DreamEater

They can't keep it. Get it back and take it somewhere else for another quote.

To me that sounds fishy, yes it may have problems that need fixing, but they are hoping you'll listen to them and let them do the work, some of which may not even need doing.

Shop around.

Dave.

They are a good garage, all the family take their cars to him so he knows us all and doesn't tend rip us off if anything he cuts the price a little bit.

But yeah didn't think about taking it elsewhere tbh as always goes to him, but will do that. Thanks

2nd August 2011, 21:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by JA3llis

If you had it lowered who ever did it should of noticed the bushes are worn on the bar when the removed the torsion bar to lower?

The garage said that tbf, but naming no names on here as i was pleased with what they did they guys that did lower it didn't say anything about it.

2nd August 2011, 21:42

they cant stop you from driving your car out the garage.

2nd August 2011, 21:44

As long as you were happy with the job that was done thats all that matters. If the bar was removed not long ago swapping the bushes isnt a bad job as everything wont be siezed solid. I personally would have the things that are dangerous ie track rod end, tyres, and bottom arms done. Then save a few months and have the axle reconned ie new bushes and shockers. The rack gator shouldnt be a big job and if the rack is noisey live with it aslong as it isnt leaking dont worry about it and are they sure its the rach and not the pump thats noisey?

2nd August 2011, 21:50

there not bushes in the rear beam trailing arms.

they are needle roller bearings.
and tbh who ever lowered it should have replaced them whilest doing so.
youd be stupid not to change them while its all apart, even if it looked fine when fitted to the car, as its apart it may aswell be done just for peace of mind.

you could buy all those parts for under 250 quid id say and fit them yourself, its all straight forward.

EDIT: not including the tyres.

2nd August 2011, 21:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by JA3llis

As long as you were happy with the job that was done thats all that matters. If the bar was removed not long ago swapping the bushes isnt a bad job as everything wont be siezed solid. I personally would have the things that are dangerous ie track rod end, tyres, and bottom arms done. Then save a few months and have the axle reconned ie new bushes and shockers. The rack gator shouldnt be a big job and if the rack is noisey live with it aslong as it isnt leaking dont worry about it and are they sure its the rach and not the pump thats noisey?

Thanks for advice, well i asked the guy what was most important, he said tyres obviously, then ball joints and then rear beam, and the steering stuff can wait a bit, but it sounded like he wants to replace the whole beam, as he was on about having to re lower it again. can u just change the shockers and bushes then?

2nd August 2011, 21:56

Yes you replace the rollers in the beam and the dampers seperate. The only problem I have ever encounted when replacing the rollers is that they are so worn the end of the the torsion bar starts to wear so even with new rollers there is still play.

2nd August 2011, 21:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick_VTR

there not bushes in the rear beam trailing arms.

they are needle roller bearings.
and tbh who ever lowered it should have replaced them whilest doing so.
youd be stupid not to change them while its all apart, even if it looked fine when fitted to the car, as its apart it may aswell be done just for peace of mind.

you could buy all those parts for under 250 quid id say and fit them yourself, its all straight forward
EDIT: not including the tyres.

Oh right, that sounds a bit better, so would i have to replace the whole beam? and are the ball joints pressed in, as i wouldn't be able to do that myself. or can i buy a part where they are already done (wishbone is it??)

Yeah i was guessing tyres wern't in there but thats fine, tyres don't bother me, i see it as you are always going to need tyres so that's fine, lol if you see what I mean

2nd August 2011, 22:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by JA3llis

Yes you replace the rollers in the beam and the dampers seperate. The only problem I have ever encounted when replacing the rollers is that they are so worn the end of the the torsion bar starts to wear so even with new rollers there is still play.

wtf are you on?

the needle roller bearings in the trailing arms dont run on the ends of the torsion bars. the torsion bars have splined ends like a drive shaft and fit into splines on either trailing arm.
the needle rollers are in the end of the trailing arm, from which it pivots on the main beam or stub pins as some people like to call them, and so when the rollers have worn down completely then the the arm is quite simply rotating on the stub pin with no bearing between the two harsh surfaces, so it will eventualy wear the main beam/stub pins away and cause grooves to form.

so if your bearings are that far gone you might need a new beam yes, you might be lucky and get away with just a new set of roller bearings and seals.

EDIT: and to the OP, yes you can get wishbones, probably the easiest option, and there not exactly to dear i dont think.

2nd August 2011, 22:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick_VTR

wtf are you on?

EDIT: and to the OP, yes you can get wishbones, probably the easiest option, and there not exactly to dear i dont think.

Thanks, Just looked on ebay found 2 wishbones about £70 so not that bad, do you think i will need to replace drive shaft or just cv joint?

2nd August 2011, 22:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick_VTR

wtf are you on?

the needle roller bearings in the trailing arms dont run on the ends of the torsion bars. the torsion bars have splined ends like a drive shaft and fit into splines on either trailing arm.
the needle rollers are in the end of the trailing arm, from which it pivots on the main beam or stub pins as some people like to call them, and so when the rollers have worn down completely then the the arm is quite simply rotating on the stub pin with no bearing between the two harsh surfaces, so it will eventualy wear the main beam/stub pins away and cause grooves to form.

so if your bearings are that far gone you might need a new beam yes, you might be lucky and get away with just a new set of roller bearings and seals.

EDIT: and to the OP, yes you can get wishbones, probably the easiest option, and there not exactly to dear i dont think.

i just paid £50 for one, thats with trade

ball joint failed mot, was easier to change whole lot.

2nd August 2011, 22:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by nixinoo

Thanks, Just looked on ebay found 2 wishbones about £70 so not that bad, do you think i will need to replace drive shaft or just cv joint?

get a new shaft mate, or a used known good one.

i smashed a shaft on mine and just got a used one, that was 16 months ago and its still going fine soooo.

think mine was about 25 quid deliverd off ebay at the time mate.

2nd August 2011, 22:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by nixinoo

Thanks, Just looked on ebay found 2 wishbones about £70 so not that bad, do you think i will need to replace drive shaft or just cv joint?

you cant just change cv joints on a saxo, has to be full driveshaft

3rd August 2011, 20:03

i have found someone that is selling a few not to far away

he is selling a steering rack and a steering pump, as someone said earlier that it could be the pump that needs doing not the rack ( i have noticed whining when turning the steering wheel) is there any way of finding out which one needs doing?

he is also selling drive shafts, is it worth getting these instead of new ones??

Thanks x

3rd August 2011, 20:19

The whirring is usual! It's an electric pump.

If you can get a pair of cheap shafts then go for it, make sure they're the correct type otherwise your wheel bearings will die and you'll have a lot of play in the wheels.

- Steering Rack Gaitor - if it's the condom shaped one then it costs about £4 from citroen and takes 2 mins to fit

- Steering Rack Noisy - you've said about a whine. The power steering pump is electric and they all make noise!

- N/S/F Track Rod End £10 part - half hour to fit

- Both Front Bottom Ball Joints - replace lower arms is easiest, about £40 each at trade, an hour to change max!

- N/S/F Out CV Joint Worn and Noisy - you've been offered shafts, make sure they're the correct type otherwise tou'll have play in the wheels and wheel bearings will die. New shafts are about £70 each so pay no more than £30 each, £10 for gear oil and and further 20 mins fitting them whilst already doing lower arms.

- Rear Beam Radius Arms - Easiest to fit another axle (sh price of about £80 - £100) or rebuild yours with new pins (effort!). About 2 hours to swap an axle, 3 if he has problems or it's not identical.

- O/S/R Shocker Badly Leaking - Get a donor beam with shocks

- 3 Tyres almost ilegal - Ronseal. new tyres.

So, i make that a maximum of £300 on parts and about 6 hours labour.

Thats also a bit crap he's made you leave your car there, he's not allowed to do that and worst case all he could do is make you sign a disclaimer stating that you know of the problems. Even an MOT centre are not ALLOWED to keep your car. You are not obliged to have him carry out the work. Only pay for an inspection (maximum price of an mot £40).

I'd happily sort your car out for you and help to save you money along the way. If you wanted the work done for example, from me, you'd be looking at a maximum of £150 for the labour side of things.

3rd August 2011, 20:33

Thanks Kris that is a big help. the drive shafts im looking at are on this thread http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=390098 how can you tell if they are the correct ones x