Car cuts out when i start it and has low idle *now with video*

  1. #1
    Problem started today, when i start the car it makes like a high pitched whine and cuts out pretty much instantly unless i rev it.

    Has got worse throughout the day, was out and about earlier, it was doing the high pitched whine when it started and chugging a bit, but once i had revved it, it would tick over on its own, but only at like 600 revs, and it was hunting quite badly.

    Now when i start it, same as above but it wont tick over atall, just cuts out, and when i rev it, the battery light just flashes at me like crazy.

    I have the battery plugged into the optimate now and im gonna leave it all night and try it tomorrow, and i hope that sorts it.

    If it doesnt, any ideas what it could be? Cheers
  2. #2
    Uploading a video of a warm start to photobucket now, someone has suggested changing my ICV. Could be that, as it has been playing up for quite a while now but i havent got round to changing it?
  3. #3
    This video is from a warm start, so doesnt cut out, but idles quite low and the car is shaking like it wants to cut out.

  4. #4
    sound like the coil pack?
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Rookie View Post
    sound like the coil pack?
    What makes you say that mate?
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Rookie View Post
    sound like the coil pack?
    doubt it..
    it fires fine and dont seem to missfire.
  7. #7
    theres a little ajustment on boddies turn it clockwise untill it shounds good idle which it 1000 rpm
  8. #8
    Possible blocked injector/s
  9. #9
    just buy a volvo they dont have problems lol
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by andmay1993 View Post
    theres a little ajustment on boddies turn it clockwise untill it shounds good idle which it 1000 rpm
    Where abouts is this man
  11. #11
    Bump.. any ideas anyone?

    Disconected my battery and gonna leave it overnight to see if resetting ecu helps the problem atall.
    Also picked up another icv at the scrappy today so i'll whack that on at the weekend along with giving it a good clean out and the throttle body aswell.

    If that doesnt fix it i'll have a go at replacing the coilpack.
  12. #12
    idle control valve or injectors
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by kane_15023 View Post
    idle control valve or injectors
    If its the injectors, how do i go about sorting that?
  14. #14
    Yay its fixed! For anyone with the same problem. I just replaced the idle control valve and all was well.
  15. #15
    This dosent ALWAYS sort your bad idling out, it can be many other things, however this is a common problem.

    Tools needed:

    T20
    T30
    Flat screw driver
    Carb cleaner spray
    and whatever your induction is connected on with or air box.

    15min job


    1) Ok, i dont think its in the same place on ALL engines so this only applys if your throttle area looks like this:



    2) start with taking your induction kit or housing off

    3) Here is the idle control valve (ms paint production presents



    4) Switch the car on, get your carb cleaner spray and spray it into the top half of this pic, give it some revs and keep spraying. If this fails and dosent sort your idling out then get ya T30 and undo the 3 torx keys, to take the body off



    5) the air that goes through the idle control valve is the top half of this pic in the body:



    6) Here is the hole from the inside, once your throttle body is off. Try cleaning this area up with some carb cleaner, you can buy this from halfords for like £5, spray a load in there



    7) Discconnect all the sensors and the throttle cable so its free. To take the idle control valve off, its easier to take the throttle position sensor off first, T20 on the 2 bolts there. then then idle control valve, again T20.

    Throttle position sensor is the one to the left of the pic, and the ICV is the one set back to the right



    8) Heres the badboy idle control valve, give it a good clean and the area it came from





    Then Re-asemble in the reverse steps.

    Now take ya car for a good drive, over 8 miles.

    If its still doing it, then it could be many other problems, mainly sensors. Maybe worth getting a diognostics done usually £20ish by a local garage or sumtimes for free, if they dont find any fualt.

    Map sensor could be a problem, as it thinks there more or less air going in than there actually is, so the idle control valve changes in relation to the MAP sensors reading.

    To narro this down, find where your MAP sensor is, now switch your car on, wait for it to idle high if it isnt already, now dissconnect the multi plug NOT the whole sensor from the unit, if the idle comes back down to about 800rpmish then it could be the MAP sensor, It will idle very rough, but around the 800rpm range. It will also over fuel without this sensor, so dont leave it off.

    If your idle only happens when the car is cold, and comes back down when it warms up, then it could be the coolant temp sensor, giving a false readin, meaning its sending too much fuel in the engine, and needing more air to bang, so the idle control valve opens, ALL knock on chain reaction effect from one sensor!..
  16. #16
    Nice one man. This should be helpful when people search it in the future