issues getting power / starting etc

  1. #1
    have refitted my engine loom, and made new battery cables with a rally design battery in rear, i have used

    thick cable battery to starter - on the thicker 13mm fixing
    smaller diameter cable from starter to alternator - again on 13mm fixing
    fuse box to starter - agin with smaller cable on the 13mm fixing
    battery to earth
    gearbox to chassis earth

    Still having isues! anyone any ideas after this lot?

    have now added an earth from the gearbox to the chassis, and tested the battery which is apparently fine?!

    few queries that i may have got wrong?!

    there are two threaded fitting on the starter motor..... a large with a 13mm nut and a smaller thread with an 8mm nut.

    i have put the lines from battery to starter, starter to alternator, and starter to fuse box all on the larger thread with the 13mm nut. IS THIS CORRECT?

    then the only fitting on the 8mm nut is the original connector from the loom......

    there are a few plugs which i also havent got plugged in, brown plug next to the inertia switch? And this 2 pin plug close to the inertia also see here.....


  2. #2
    I presume you have linked both engine fuse boxes to power??

    I worked mine different.

    I bought a 3 way power distribution block
    http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motors...jointing-boxes


    1 lead from the battery to a pin on the distribution block.

    1 lead from the distribution block to the large terminal on the starter motor.

    1 lead from the distribution block to the large engine bay fuse box.

    1 lead from the distribution block to the small engine bay fuse box.
  3. #3
    it now cranks but will not fire, so cables are now routed ok. the fuel pump will not prime, have checked the 15amp fuse which is fine, i pressed the fuel inertia switch earlier which has stayed pressed down and not sprung back up yet?

    when i press it to try and reset it, it wont return to its original place.

    the only other option is the pump relay under the ecu as the one now fitted is a spare one i had in the garage, so i dont know its good....
  4. #4
    Silly question but i presume the immobiliser light goes off on the dash when cranking the engine over?
  5. #5
    when i turn the ignition to the first position the battery light shows, the clock comes on with no other lights

    also the headlights flash on and off several times and then stop, but the pump does not prime, the engine crank but does not fire?
  6. #6
    Sounds to me like what I had, either and ECU problem or the Crankshaft position sensor.. But that doesn't explain why the Pump doesn't prime.

    Tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it for a while, to let everything discharge and reset? Would have thought that'd allow the inertia switch to sort out its tiff.
  7. #7
    cant be ecu as its a standalone kms which worked before i took the loom off?

    also its the same crank sensor so again cant be faulty, could disconnect the battery overnight and see what happens
  8. #8
    Anyone else and ideas?
  9. #9
    Last time I had this issue when i fitted the battery in thr boot on my iTB'd vts it turned out to be a dodgy earth, countered it by fitting 4awg wire from the battery to the chassis (had to sand the spot to the metal), gearbox to chassis, alt casing to chassis. Not sure if that'll help mate
  10. #10
    Cheers mate I'll try re-doing the earths a little better. Did this stop your fuel pump from priming?
  11. #11
    Yea it did not sure why tho lol, once it was sorted I just plugged the battery in and it worked fine
  12. #12
    When I relocated my battery to boot, I had a shit earth also, and pump didn't prime either. Just rubbed it down to bare metal and re fitted it. Started fine afterwards. May be your problem mathias. Hope nothing to major
  13. #13
    UPDATE

    Right, have given the pump a live feed from the battery, turned ignition on and the pump primes, car starts and runs.

    however, take this live feed away turn the ignition and the pump wont prime....

    this means the battery cables ive made up are ok, the earths are all ok, fuses and relays are ok and the pump is ok!

    any ideas?
  14. #14
    i had exactly the same problem with wassys car at one point after extending cables etc and i can't for the life of me say 100% we found a cure but definately recall the pump not priming and having to drop a seperate feed to it to prove a point
  15. #15
    surely you need the inertia switch fitted if your using a KMS?? your using the standard loom still.
  16. #16
    After cleaning all earths and a few other bits the pump now primes and engine starts....

    However the pump continues to prime for done reason and does not stop after 5 seconds or so as it's supposed to?

    Yes the inertia will remain fitted
  17. #17
    Im not sure if the KMS stops the fuel pump from priming. From what i remember it doesnt