gti rear beam.

  1. #1
    Got hold of a gti rear beam for my furio as mines fucked. The beam has the handbrake cables and abs sensors on it. I'm guessing the abs sensors can just be cut off? Because my furio doesn't have abs. Also it doesn't have any brake lines, if I went to a scrap yard am I just looking for some off of a vtr, vts or gti I'm guessing?
  2. #2
    Get yourself some copper pipe and unions from eBay...and a brake line flaring kit, the steel lines on the cars will just break if you try and take them off and they don't bend well

    Edit: Can't look on eBay at work...but a quick Google throws up that you need 3/16 size copper pipe and unions to go with it, you'll need at least 4 unions. Flaring kits are about ~£20.

    At least if you do it this way, if you ever get a brake pipe union round off, you can just cut the fucker off and make a new bit of pipe up, takes 5 minutes!

    Also buy yourself a brake pipe spanner, 11mm in size
  3. #3
    What about standard brake lines from a motorfactors or kamracing etc? And what does a brake flaring kit do?
  4. #4
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Karlb1 View Post
    What about standard brake lines from a motorfactors or kamracing etc? And what does a brake flaring kit do?
    "Standard" brake lines are steel...they don't bend and don't like being moved around.

    Copper brake lines are very flexible in comparison, if you went to a motor factors, they would make you a bit of pipe up to length, don't really need it shaped as you can bend it yourself, just get a bit of string and use that to work out how long you need the pipe to be, then take the measurement to the shop.

    A brake flaring kit basically flares the ends of the pipe over a union so it creates an air/water tight seal when done up, which is perfect for brake lines.
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  5. #5
    http://www.kamracing.co.uk/citroen/c...ake-lines.html. Any point in getting any of these? I'm not too bothered about them being braided but would that actually make a difference? Just thought it'd be easier to just buy a set of these
  6. #6
    Just been googling...

    Pipe and Unions for £11.69 from Amazon!

    And you're looking at between £10 and £20 for a flaring kit...

    And with that pipe, you could do the whole car and probably another 3 (if you bought more unions)
  7. #7
    Ah cool, so that would be the brake line and the unions on that link? So I'd just need to buy that and the flaring kit and an 11mm brake spanner?
    Was looking at the goodridge brake line kit. Comes with the brake lines and a spanner from what I can see?
  8. #8
    Braided lines are designed to replace the rubber hoses that go around the rear beam, and from the front strut to the calliper, they are an upgrade part as when stamping hard on the brakes the rubber hoses expand, which means you have less pressure/braking to the wheels...they are not better than copper as the copper won't expand.

    You can get the braided to replace the rubber, but unless you're on a track or an ASW you really won't notice much difference.

    You might as well future proof with the copper lines and flaring kit, as I don't know how much experience you have with brakes, but almost every car I have worked on (all over 10 years old) at least one of the unions rounds off, and it's so much easier to just cut the pipe, stick a proper hex socket on it and un do it, and then make up a new bit of pipe, that way if you need to do anything with the brakes in future, you'll have nice new nuts that haven't rusted!
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Karlb1 View Post
    Ah cool, so that would be the brake line and the unions on that link? So I'd just need to buy that and the flaring kit and an 11mm brake spanner?
    Was looking at the goodridge brake line kit. Comes with the brake lines and a spanner from what I can see?
    Yeah, if it's not urgent, shop around, just need 3/16 pipe, M10x1 Male unions and a flaring kit, can get the whole lot for under £30, nearer £50 if you want it now, ie motor factors...
  10. #10
    Copper and unions it is then. I'm on my phone at work so I'll order it when I'm home in the morning. I'm not the one doing the work, Dom off here is doing it for me so I'll ask him his opinions etc and I don't know what he'll need/want.
    Also, about the abs sensors on the beam, will I be alright just cutting them off?
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Karlb1 View Post
    Copper and unions it is then. I'm on my phone at work so I'll order it when I'm home in the morning. I'm not the one doing the work, Dom off here is doing it for me so I'll ask him his opinions etc and I don't know what he'll need/want.
    Also, about the abs sensors on the beam, will I be alright just cutting them off?
    Ahh good ol' Dom and his hammer (from what I hear...)

    No idea about the sensors, but personally, I would just bash them off, if they're not connected or even on the car they can't work or affect anything is my thinking...
  12. #12
    The Jeremy Clarkson method, itd's the way forward.
    Yeah that's what I was thinking, if there's no sensor there shouldn't be any faults with it etc. Well Dom and his mate will be doing the work/showing me how its done, so I'll order that copper pipe stuff and have a look for a flaring kit if he needs one
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Karlb1 View Post
    The Jeremy Clarkson method, itd's the way forward.
    Yeah that's what I was thinking, if there's no sensor there shouldn't be any faults with it etc. Well Dom and his mate will be doing the work/showing me how its done, so I'll order that copper pipe stuff and have a look for a flaring kit if he needs one
    Cool beans!

    Flaring pipe is so easy once you have a read of the instructions as it's not obvious at first. And once you've done it, you'll look at a rusted nut, and just cut the pipe and put a proper socket on it! Not dicking around trying to nurse it off!
  14. #14
    I'll have a look at flaring kits when I'm home about half 6/7. If possible I'll do that before I take the beam to mr Dom, just messaged him asking if he needs me to get the flaring kit and spanner.
  15. #15
    Little tip, you only need to do a single flare. Double flares are only needed if the pipe is going to be subjected to lots of stress, but seeing as it doesn't even move once connected it won't be needed.
  16. #16
    Fair enough. That means nothing to me right now but I'm sure it'll make sense when I see a flaring kit.
  17. #17
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Karlb1 View Post
    Fair enough. That means nothing to me right now but I'm sure it'll make sense when I see a flaring kit.
    Hopefully! If either you or Dom get stuck with flaring, just take the pipe to a motor factors and see if they will explain it to you...or PM me, I'm off work from Friday to Wednesday so I could lend a teaching hand...
  18. #18
    As far as I'm aware, Dom is up to scratch with brakes and stuff like that, and his mate has a workshop so I'm guessing somebody will know what to do. Cheers for the help buddy!
  19. #19
    Right, just ordered the copper line and nuts, Thanks for you help mate