for a 1.1i. but has been converted to 4std. i think theres renault calipers on there aswell. any ideas of which guide i would need?
wheel bearing change guide
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#1
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#2got a pic of caliper if any one can recognize it.
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#3just take off wheel, take off the caliper, there will be 2 bolts holdin it on then there will be 2 lil studs where the wheel bolts on to the disk take em out, take off the nut that holds the bearin in then should cum off, i think could be different due to the upgrade n such, hope it helps ya mate
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#4^^^thats not a wheel bearing thats a caliper removal.
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#5Wheel bearing is a night mare mate i wouldnt attempt it yourself unless you are very, very confident.
i did mine at the weekend and had to cut it out with oxyaceclyn(fine point blow torch) was a right ba**ard and was just as hard to get the new one back in!
best to take your whole suspension strutt off.
You WILL need 2 people for this!
if you feel confident hear goes:
1/wheel off,
2/brake caliper off (2 19mm bolts at the back of the caliper)
3/Brake disk off(2 little torx bolts)
4/Tap out the crimps on the driveshaft nut with a chissel and undo the driveshaft nut.(you should get a new driveshaft nut with your bearing)
5/ Undo you droplink where it connects to the suspension strutt next to the spring.(your droplink connects your antiroll bar to your suspension strutt)
6/then undo the bolt under your strutt that fixex your strutt to the the wishbone. this can be quite tricky to get off. you will need to keep the wishbone end prized open while you lever it out of the bottom of the strutt with a THICK bar. be carefull you dont split your driveshaft rubber gaitor though or you'll be froking out for a new driveshaft!
7/ open the bonnet and undo the 3 bolts on the top of your suspension strutt (13mm socket i think)
8/ then you need one person holding the driveshaft into the gearbox(otherwise you'll lose all your gearbox oil!) while you pull the suspension strutt off the end of the driveshaft. you will need to makesure the driveshaft stays in the gearbox all the time unless you want to undo the really awquard filler bolt and buy some more gearbox oil!
9/ then you will need to hit out the hub itsself from the strutt and bearing.
10/ then you will need to take the strutt and you'll see a BIG circlip on the inner side of the strutt that secures the bearing in place.
11/ then you need to BASH the bearing out. it should come out from the same side the circlip came out.
12/ when you have finally got the bearing out grease the slot and SLOWLY tap in the new bearing making sure its going in level at ALL times.
13/ when you have the bearing in, put in you new or old circlip and put everything back on in the same order you took it off. making sure that you tap the edges of driveshaft nut back into the crimp slots!
Thats it i think. if anyone can see if iv missed anything then please feel free to add!
Cheers,.
Dan -
#6when my dad did mine he used a blow torch to heat the hole wer the bearing went ,caused the hole to expand making it real easy for the new bearing to be hit in.also use the old bearing on top of the new one whilst hitting it in ,save you damaging the new one .
another thing that wasn't mentioned is that when the hub splits away from the bearing it will have one side of the bearing still on the hub,what you need to do is get a angle grinder and grind the one side of the bearing flat until it just reaches the hub ,then hit it wil the hammer and it will come lose enough to slide it off
Hope this helps -
#7Hmm...I was just about to order a new set of rear bearings for my wheels and doing them one night next week...but after reading that - F*CK THAT!!!
On a motorbike, the same procedure:
1 - take off wheel
2 - take out bearing rings from centre
3 - put new bearings in
4 - put wheel back on
Moral:
Pay someone else to do it if you're changing wheel bearings on a car
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#8I know this is an old thread guys but, I have a suspect rear wheel bearing gone, whirring/humming comes and goes at different speeds and is def coming from the rear of the car, are they difficult to do also? I have a vtr, rear disc,
seems strange though because the humming does'nt get any louder under load, going left or right etc. -
#9its realy not as bad as it sounds atall, the only difficult parts when the bearings are siezed. To change the fronts its the same procedure as taking the struts out to change springs, except obviously not takign springs out. But if your not confident in doing it then leave it for a proffesional! but the rears are an absolute doddle to do!
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#10how much would a garage charge to change a front wheel bearing on a vtr? i could do it myself but im only after puttin a gearbox in it and driveshaft but the driveshaft is not the right one for the bearing and im sick of workin on it just????
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#11i can supply you with the bearings cheap
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#12how much is cheap? and what would a garage cost?
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#13£25 each, the equivalent bearing is £50 at ecp
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#14£25 each you mad i can get them for £15
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#18Hi, first post I normally just read on here looking for tips and know how, I work at a cit/pug garage so it's always best to keep up.
I need a rear wheel bearing/ rwb hub assembly too and was wondering if people can get them as cheap as stated, I can pay via paypal (or cash if your close to lewisham). Cheapest we can get them as assemblys is 48 trade including vat which is painful
I will get some pics of my current saxo up soon, its a vtr phase 1 in poseidon blue, low mileage with white cyclones and soon to be gti-6 brake set-up.
