Tell me if im Wrong...

  1. #1
    I basically need someone to hold my hand as im going to change my coolant,

    Now ill say what i think i need to do and if its wrong then please correct me

    looking at the engine 8v
    I take off the bottom left hose at bottom of rad, drain into a bucket, put a garden hose up either the pipe or the rad from that point?

    Then take off the pipe to the right of the rad leading to the thermo housing. put hose in pipe cleaning out rad?

    then re-join all pipes, get a coke bottle and fill up coolant until the "header tank" is 2/3 full, then do bleeding points one at a time, 3 of them,

    Turn engine on and let bubbles come out of header tank?

    If this is not the case then let me know as i am a tit
  2. #2
    all fine. taking the two rad hoses off and blast water up in through the hoses is fine. it will take a while to bleed and the clips for the hoses can be wee bastids
  3. #3
    also need the heaters turned on
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  4. #4
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by tarzan View Post
    all fine. taking the two rad hoses off and blast water up in through the hoses is fine. it will take a while to bleed and the clips for the hoses can be wee bastids
    so do i just keep pouring coolant in until its in the header tank? and open all three bleed points?
  5. #5
    where are the three bleed point ( soz for busting in on yr thread, i m waiting for my haynes to turn up) cheers si
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Vtrsi76 View Post
    where are the three bleed point ( soz for busting in on yr thread, i m waiting for my haynes to turn up) cheers si
    one on the rad, one at the back left of engine as you look at it and another where the thermostat is at front right of engine
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  7. #7
    yeah, while running your car. open the bleed cap to the left of the inlet and pour loads of water in. when it starts to over flow undo the bleed cap on the right side of the rad. there is a wee plastic flange on the header tank that is the max. its handy old job
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  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by tarzan View Post
    yeah, while running your car. open the bleed cap to the left of the inlet and pour loads of water in. when it starts to over flow undo the bleed cap on the right side of the rad. there is a wee plastic flange on the header tank that is the max. its handy old job
    Last Question
    so does the car have to be on while im doing the bleeding,
    Or do i bleed the car first then turn the car on and let the bubble come up through header tank ?
  9. #9
    yeah car needs to be running when bleeding
  10. #10
    Take the stat out too and flush the engine properly. Might as well renew it while you are there too if its a bit manky looking as they are cheap, you dont want it failing on you and sticking shut/open.

    This is what I do to bleed:
    Header tank/self made one from a bottle in the radiator, fill system with coolant and water mix
    Keep going til the header tank is about half full. Open the bleed screws on the rad, stat housing and the heater pipes in that and wait for the coolant to flow from them in a steady stream then lock them off. Top up the header tank/bottle to half full if it needs it and then start the car until the stat open (pipe to the rad from the stat gets warm) and wait for the fan to cut in and out a couple of times. Switch off and let it fully cool before you remove the bottle/header tank. Top up the radiator header tank if need be then its job done.
  11. #11
    car doesnt have to be on while bleeding
    i do it with it off.

    this is what i do...
    remove bottom hose, drain it out, undo top hose and stick hosepipe in to flush out.

    Then undo the thermostat housing, remove thermostat, put thermostat housing back on with top hose attached, and flush with hosepipe.

    replace thermostat and connect up all the hoses.

    open all bleed points.

    Dont need a coke bottle or anything, just pour in the coolant mixture slowly until it starts constantly flowing out the first bleed point (radiator) .

    Shut it off, and wait for water to constantly pour out the 2nd point (thermostat housing).

    Shut it off, and wait for the third bleed point to start to spit water out. It wont constantly pour out becuase its quite high, so what i do is form a seal around the top of the coolant bottom with your hands and mouth, and blow! have someone waiting there for the air bubbles to stop to throw on the little cap.

    Then after this i start the car up with heaters on etc. and go through the bleeding process once more quickly to make sure

    ^this way has never failed me on these TU engines
  12. #12
    as above ^^^^
  13. #13
    Guess of you have a hosepipe on the south your fucked
  14. #14
    Dundee, You asked the same question just the other week, and someone gave you this thread to read. It explains it perfectly...

    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98877

    Its a perfect guide. print it off and use it as you go, or buy a haynes manual.
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AnthonyMartin View Post
    Dundee, You asked the same question just the other week, and someone gave you this thread to read. It explains it perfectly...

    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98877

    Its a perfect guide. print it off and use it as you go, or buy a haynes manual.
    it doesnt or i wouldnt of asked
  16. #16
    Is it possible to flush the engine without removing the thermostat?

    I'm changing coolant tomorrow and want to know where to put the hose, do i stick it in the bottom hose? or in the rad?
  17. #17
    Flushing The Engine

    1. Remove Thermostat And Replace The Housing.
    2. Put A Hose Pipe Into The Top Hose And Wait Till Clean Water Emerges From The Bottom Hose Via Engine (You can use a engine cleaner here)
    3. Replace The Thermostat(If in good condition inc seal)
    4. Connect All Hoses
    5. Fill With Water And Antifreeze Mix Using A Header Tank On The Expansion Tank.
    7. Bleed System And Check For Leaks.
  18. #18
    Replaced coolant today at the expense of a the thermostat bleed nipple which snapped off, half the coolant pissed out of the system, however i had an old coilpack bolt and managed to get the bolt out so all was good, coolant is really low so will top up tomorrow, and iv tried numerous time but the radiator wont bleed at all, but the temp has been ok so is it necessary? and also it seems to cool down quicker which probably sounds ridiculous as iv just put in new coolant. but assuming its ok
  19. #19
    Get a new nipple xD And yes you gotta bleed ALL of it. The temp might seem ok now but you will most likely have an air lock...