Important! : Vts conversion started , cut out now wont start :( M

5th September 2012, 06:40

Just finished converting my mk1 vtr to a mk1 vts and had a few problems with fuelling , blocked the fuel return to bypass the regulator which caused it too overfuel loads and wouldnt start, unblocked it and it started fine , left it ticking over and after a while it just cut out, wouldnt start for ages, guessed it ran out of petrol so filled it back up and a couple minutes later it started , went to drive home and it cut out and hasnt started since, the fuel pump was priming but stopped aswell, sometimes it primes everytime sometimes it never primes, just wondering if anyone had any ideas? Would the two fpr's stop it from starting at all? It turns over fine and because it has started i know it isnt an ecu problem . Help needed asap!! Thanks

5th September 2012, 11:20

One thing I do know is that you shouldn`t be running 2 fpr`s mate.

5th September 2012, 12:37

2 fprs doesnt sound like it's helping

5th September 2012, 13:56

I still have 2 fprs and never had problems.

5th September 2012, 14:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by rich112

I still have 2 fprs and never had problems.

Mine still has 2 too.

Have you pressed the fuel cut off in the engine bay? the big red button?

I'd take the plugs out / and check for spark

If don't have spark then check coilpack / see if it's getting power

If does have spark but still won't fire - check for fuel / pressure at the rail, Take the fuel pipe off the injector rail and prime fuel pump.. then try and cover the end with your finger - should be hard to keep sealed / pop off..

So if you have fuel at the rail.. now you need to check the injectors are firing.. Its abit of a mess about taking the rail off. So I'd take the air filter off, and pour some petrol down the 90' elbow whilst cranking.. If it starts - then the injectors aren't firing.

So check injector loom for voltages / check injectors are all connected properly.

If it still won't start - Try another crank shaft sensor.

Could also try the fuel filter.

What lights are there on the dash if any?

5th September 2012, 15:12

I'd run a live direct to the pump by taking the covers off over the tank and running a feed from the battery. if it starts and runs like this its safe to say the issue is electrical and not a fuel line plumbing problem.

5th September 2012, 15:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

Mine still has 2 too.

Have you pressed the fuel cut off in the engine bay? the big red button?

I'd take the plugs out / and check for spark

If don't have spark then check coilpack / see if it's getting power

If does have spark but still won't fire - check for fuel / pressure at the rail, Take the fuel pipe off the injector rail and prime fuel pump.. then try and cover the end with your finger - should be hard to keep sealed / pop off..

So if you have fuel at the rail.. now you need to check the injectors are firing.. Its abit of a mess about taking the rail off. So I'd take the air filter off, and pour some petrol down the 90' elbow whilst cranking.. If it starts - then the injectors aren't firing.

So check injector loom for voltages / check injectors are all connected properly.

If it still won't start - Try another crank shaft sensor.

Could also try the fuel filter.

What lights are there on the dash if any?

Ive pressed it but im pretty sure its broke as it doesnt click , it worked once and brought the fuel pump back on for a while but still wouldnt start, i checked fuel was going to the rail and it is it just isnt injecting as the plugs are bone dry, crank sensor is brand new and as for lights theyre just the normal lights that come on then off while cranking , e.g. Battery , oil , oil dipstick light likes to flash before turning on but oil level is fine , not sure what i could try anymore. Can i bypass the cut off switch by just twisting the two wires together? . Thanks for the help everyone .

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

I'd run a live direct to the pump by taking the covers off over the tank and running a feed from the battery. if it starts and runs like this its safe to say the issue is electrical and not a fuel line plumbing problem.

Need to get the car towed to my house then try the live feed to pump as it was recommended by a few people now ! Thanks .

5th September 2012, 15:43

Yes i cut mine off / twisted the wires together.

It only clicks if it's been activated.. so doesn't sound like that.

My car did this randomly... The injectors wasn't firing.. So i took the rail off and there was a loose injector. Fitted it properly and it worked and has worked since

.

So i'd check the injector loom connectors and the injectors are connected properly

5th September 2012, 15:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

Yes i cut mine off / twisted the wires together.

It only clicks if it's been activated.. so doesn't sound like that.

My car did this randomly... The injectors wasn't firing.. So i took the rail off and there was a loose injector. Fitted it properly and it worked and has worked since

.

So i'd check the injector loom connectors and the injectors are connected properly

Hmm ill have to check this over once i get the car back, hopefully i find the problem, knew a conversion wouldnt be all too easy though haha Thanks

10th September 2012, 15:23

Right , just towed the car home , tried bump starting to see if it would work and it did? Ticked over fine revved up fine but as soon as i slowed down to a stop it cut out? Battery is pretty much dead flat and the fuel pump was priming when i turn the key, any help is appreciated !

10th September 2012, 18:19

Check your battery mate, mine was on way out and car would cut out on low revs

11th September 2012, 01:31

Charging the battery overnight so ill see what happens in the morning .

Just plugged battery in, tried to start car, after 2 or 3 attempts it started and was ticking over, gave it some revs and it was still fine, it was good for 2-3 mins then it cut out and hasnt started again since, fuel pump kicks in ever time without fail ? any ideas?

11th September 2012, 14:07

So it's fine when the battery is fully charged..

Either the alternator isn't charging the battery or the battery isn't holding charge.

Most likely the alternator

- check the voltage on idle..

11th September 2012, 14:35

It doesnt idle anymore? Hasnt started since?

11th September 2012, 17:11

Fuel all the way to the rail just isnt injecting

annoying conversions lol

11th September 2012, 17:13

You checked the injectors?

Don't know how but one of mine was loose and wasn't firing everytime. I doubt the ECU senses this.. but Re-fitting properly cured the problem.

13 months no problems so far.

11th September 2012, 17:26

Yeah took them all out left them sitting in petrol as someone said it could do them some good, put them all back in and still no luck, lost one Of the black securing things off one injector so im searching for that atm haha

10th October 2012, 11:38

Ok , still no luck with my conversion

found a few problems which i could do with sorting

Not sure if this will effect anything?

plug with no home , wire runs beneath the inlet manifold area , purple connector.
and the last is my map sensor connector, or whats made from it as the connector is the oval type rather than the rectangle i need , just wondering wether or not this will work until i get a proper connector crimped on ?

all help appreciate , just need the car on road asap as its taken much longer than i expected.. Thanks!

10th October 2012, 15:14

That plug with no home is very likely your problem it's the manifold air temp sensor one of the main sensor that you need to run the car if its not connected your car will cut out and die due to over fuelling and the ecu isn't seeing a temp reading to adjust to so very likely it's firing on cold start map then as the temp rises the fuel load is supposed to drop an lean out your running too rich and flooding

10th October 2012, 16:25

Ahhh,, and where does this plug into mate? If thats my problem id be more than grateful!

10th October 2012, 16:37

Have a look on the throttle body you should have 3 sensors there air temp, idle control valve and throttle position sensor the air temp sensor is the little one underneath the throttle body also have a look to see if the knock sensor is plugged in behind the engine block also try another coilpack my conversion used to just cut out because of faulty pack

10th October 2012, 17:05

looking at your pics mate i would get a new engine loom tbh

10th October 2012, 17:09

wrong map sensor your using the vtr one attached to the bulkhead you need a vts one whitch fit directly to the inlet

11th October 2012, 19:25

It came with the engine?

and

Pretty sure its on the inlet?

everything is plugged in too apart from that connector i already showe which i cant find ..

Anyone?

12th October 2012, 19:55

Is it still not injecting? Mine did this needed to run a bit of sandpaper across the terminals

9th November 2012, 01:56

Fitted a different injector rail with injectors and fpr it started first time every turn of the key , ran quite lumpy on tickover and overfuelled when revved hard but the engine was working fine , left it running for a while , cut it out went inside came back about 5 mins after and it wouldn't and hasn't started since, any help? makes me want to check the fuel filter as it worked for a while then just stopped like it did before , thinking maybe the filters slightly blocked but im almost ready to give up haha

12th December 2012, 02:54

Car is overfuelling very badly , it will start run and drive but will eventually flood itself then wont start again, i know there isnt a thermostat in the housing so will be putting one in , thinking check the coolant temp sensor aswell , any ideas on what my problem might be will be much appreciated as its an ongoing problem atm. And should a 1998 mk1 vts engine have any lamdas? And would a missing one cause overfuelling? Thanks

Still no luck

To make it easier the car is a 1997 saxo vtr blacktop with the fuel return already plumbed in so no need to bypass the fpr , so far ive changed the crank sensor the fuel rail , injectors , injector loom , fpr , 2 unlocked ecus and ive taken it to two different garages with no outcome , the car will start and run but wont idle , will work for around 10- 15 minutes and will cut out and wont start again, its over fuelling badly , speedo also doesnt work but thats the last of my problems as i just want the car to run!

12th December 2012, 03:58

Sounds like 02 sensor

12th December 2012, 10:11

Where abouts is the o2 sensor on a mk1 vts mate? The exhaust is off my vtr apart from manifold obviously

12th December 2012, 10:22

have you tried a new coil pack? as i had similar problems with my conversion, which turnt out to be coli pack

12th December 2012, 10:45

Not yet mate just another part to add to the list haha, going to check my lambda now

12th December 2012, 11:33

Lambdas all plugged in and looks fine , not sure what to check anymore

annoying!

12th December 2012, 11:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con92

It came with the engine?

and

Pretty sure its on the inlet?

Anyone?

Not sure if its any of help but this is whats on the side on my inlet on my vts engine

12th December 2012, 13:32

newer engine so im guessing the sensor would be different but no worries mate , makes me think my loom is off a newer engine though

12th December 2012, 20:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con92

newer engine so im guessing the sensor would be different but no worries mate , makes me think my loom is off a newer engine though

But you have the sensor there and 3 wires next to it flapping around in the air

13th December 2012, 00:30

is the map sensor not plugged in? also that loose black plug you had a photo of earlier is from the knock sensor. You need to sort that stuff out first no point wondering what a prolem is if the everything isnt even plugged in!

13th December 2012, 00:58

the wires are connected to the points , and there arent any plugs anywhere on the engine for that black connector to go to the loom has been crimped up and sorted since those pictures

13th December 2012, 01:02

There is a plug on the back of the block for it mate. Are the map wires on the correct terminals?

17th December 2012, 03:02

knock sensor is plugged into already with a blue connector and yes the plugs are on the correct terminals , how hard would it be to fit a new loom? bearing in mind ill be doing it on my driveway? lol , i want everything to match up rather than using a bodged loom.

9th January 2013, 12:32

Car is finally up and running thanks to everyones help! , in the end i swapped my loom out for one that wasnt butchered before hand , and fitted a new knock sensor! Also sorted some o.z ultraleggeras for a bargain price so happy days! Lesson learned, never let someone who hasnt got a clue about saxos do your conversion , its not worth the hassle.

9th January 2013, 15:07

glad it is all sorted now mate

9th January 2013, 15:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by martin1985

glad it is all sorted now mate

cheers mate , was nice to stand back and watch it tick over for once!