Changing mani studs

6th September 2012, 09:21

Ive been told id need a extractor and ive been told pliers will get then out no bother

pigs fly dont they..

Is it worth changing these when putting a new mani on? i mean they arnt exactly pocket change @ £29.99 from spoox/gmc (to me).

I like the copper? coloured nuts off one site from Spoox.

Could someone please link me to those nuts separatly? or the size of them so i can search?

6th September 2012, 09:30

I got some 12.9 grade ones from somewhere :/
Silver ones anyway, took the first three studs out
Working left to right, top row
Got to the fourth and it snapped parallel to the manifold face :@ haven't got that out or done the bottom row yet! I used the two nut strategy on them

6th September 2012, 09:33

2 nuts allow the studs to be reused...

An extractor usually fucks them up...

6th September 2012, 09:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by greyjasper51

2 nuts allow the studs to be reused...

An extractor usually fucks them up...

So the studs are ok to use again.. no point in wasting money/pos failing to change them..

Quote:

Originally Posted by dolby20

I got some 12.9 grade ones from somewhere :/
Silver ones anyway, took the first three studs out
Working left to right, top row
Got to the fourth and it snapped parallel to the manifold face :@ haven't got that out or done the bottom row yet! I used the two nut strategy on them

This is what i wanted to avoid. It obviously doesnt happen to everyone but knowing my luck *snap on one or 2 leaving me

on what to do.

I think i might be easier changing the nuts. I just need to find a link to some like those copper coloured ones.

6th September 2012, 09:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

This is what i wanted to avoid. It obviously doesnt happen to everyone but knowing my luck *snap on one or 2 leaving me

on what to do.

I think i might be easier changing the nuts. I just need to find a link to some like those copper coloured ones.

I was the same and thought I was doing well too! The stud was nearly out, but snapped right at the face :@
Yeah I was fully removing studs and nuts, for Allen key headed bolts, slightly different to what you're doing, but a similar task nontheless

6th September 2012, 09:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by dolby20

I was the same and thought I was doing well too! The stud was nearly out, but snapped right at the face :@
Yeah I was fully removing studs and nuts, for Allen key headed bolts, slightly different to what you're doing, but a similar task nontheless

The Allen key nut ones could be a pain too, esp if they start rounding off.

Had that issue with £27 droplink. Never again if i can help it.

6th September 2012, 09:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

The Allen key nut ones could be a pain too, esp if they start rounding off.

Had that issue with £27 droplink. Never again if i can help it.

When I got the bolts, I found an exact allen key for them, gentle use means no rounding

the studs are a nightmare underneath!
Don't start on suspension!
One topic per thread

6th September 2012, 09:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by dolby20

When I got the bolts, I found an exact allen key for them, gentle use means no rounding

the studs are a nightmare underneath!
Don't start on suspension!
One topic per thread

Yeah then it slips and it becomes a nightmare!

definatly passing on changing the studs.

6th September 2012, 09:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

Yeah then it slips and it becomes a nightmare!

definatly passing on changing the studs.

DON'T YOU CURSE IT!!!! Hahaha

6th September 2012, 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by dolby20

DON'T YOU CURSE IT!!!! Hahaha

Lol a quick wire brush to clean them shall do.

i bet youre wishing you did now??

Could anyone tell me the size of the nuts?

6th September 2012, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

Lol a quick wire brush to clean them shall do.

i bet youre wishing you did now??

Could anyone tell me the size of the nuts?

I had wire brushed them

and 13mm bud

6th September 2012, 09:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by dolby20

I had wire brushed them

and 13mm bud

But you wanted to change them anyway?

Good stuff.

Cheers man.

Wont be doing it till end of the month anyway but im bored and thought id ask a question. Should be ordering the s/s mani in the next 2 weeks.

6th September 2012, 09:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

But you wanted to change them anyway?

Good stuff.

Cheers man.

Wont be doing it till end of the month anyway but im bored and thought id ask a question. Should be ordering the s/s mani in the next 2 weeks.

Yeah coz I have the Piper 4-1 and it looked terrible on studs and nuts!

The oem going none oem!? :O shock horror!

6th September 2012, 10:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by dolby20

Yeah coz I have the Piper 4-1 and it looked terrible on studs and nuts!

The oem going none oem!? :O shock horror!

Ah it will look alright buddy.

Lol some parts will be changed yeah. It isnt oem anyway, i have couple parts on the car that oem anyway. Exhaust etc. Exterior wise it stays as it is.

I think the mani will tie in nicely as the bay is personally.

6th September 2012, 10:01

The nuts are just normal "k nuts"

Most nut and bolt places do them :-)

6th September 2012, 10:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by greyjasper51

The nuts are just normal "k nuts"

Most nut and bolt places do them :-)

Cheers mate.

edit; is it just 13mm? whats exact detail?

6th September 2012, 10:08

you say 'k nut' 13mm? whats the exact size? ive smashed googled and it brings up loads? do i just guess this?

im grateful for half of the info but would like the rest of it.

6th September 2012, 11:05

In my opinion you will be better with a 23mm m8 stainless bolt rather than a stud and nut. The copper nuts won't stay copper coloured for long and the studs will rust. They are also cheaper at the main dealers than spooks. The size you want is .... Manifold Stud - M8x1.25 - Inner thread 15mm, Blank 6mm, Outer thread 32mm - x10
Manifold Nut - M8x1.25 - x10 (No washer needed)

Also when removing the old studs spray them with wd40 and warm the engine a little will help you remove them. The 2 nut method seems to work well.

6th September 2012, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

In my opinion you will be better with a 23mm m8 stainless bolt rather than a stud and nut. The copper nuts won't stay copper coloured for long and the studs will rust. They are also cheaper at the main dealers than spooks. The size you want is .... Manifold Stud - M8x1.25 - Inner thread 15mm, Blank 6mm, Outer thread 32mm - x10
Manifold Nut - M8x1.25 - x10 (No washer needed)

Also when removing the old studs spray them with wd40 and warm the engine a little will help you remove them. The 2 nut method seems to work well.

Thanks mate.

6th September 2012, 11:20

i removed mine a while back on a 2003vtr to swap for stainless bolts. nearly all nuts were rounded by the time i had last few studs to remove ended up with mole grips on them as spanners just werent gripping.
and once i fitted the bolts you will find its alot easier to fit a aftermarket mani and the studs and nuts dont leave alot of room so you end up tightening one bolt for what seems days

6th September 2012, 11:24

Much cheaper for exactly the same from Citroen themselves.

6th September 2012, 11:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcusd

i removed mine a while back on a 2003vtr to swap for stainless bolts. nearly all nuts were rounded by the time i had last few studs to remove ended up with mole grips on them as spanners just werent gripping.
and once i fitted the bolts you will find its alot easier to fit a aftermarket mani and the studs and nuts dont leave alot of room so you end up tightening one bolt for what seems days

Bolts with allen keys? Not keen on them.

Well if my nuts do start to round im just going to smash it in a garage. I dont have the tools to get damaged nuts and the like out/off.

Cheers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wadoryu

Much cheaper for exactly the same from Citroen themselves.

Im all for saving money so il do that cheers.

Well im going to pop to Citroen tommorow and order some 10x nuts 10x stud.

6th September 2012, 11:39

Mr P also dont forget mani gasket, i would also say get ones from citreon aswell tbf.

6th September 2012, 11:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Mr P also dont forget mani gasket, i would also say get ones from citreon aswell tbf.

Yeah I would use a genuine Citroen one too they are made from pressed metal and are stronger and iirc they are £6.32.

6th September 2012, 11:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Mr P also dont forget mani gasket, i would also say get ones from citreon aswell tbf.

I have one Cam. its from Citroen too.

Just the studs and bolts to get then saved the rest of the pennies and order the mani.

Please be a easy job...

6th September 2012, 11:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

I have one Cam and yes its from Citroen.

Just the studs and bolts to get then saved the rest of the pennies and order the mani.

Please be a easy job...

It is easy mann, just line it up right and dont do the studs up pissed ie do them up like a car head work from the inside out so the gasket seals to the best it can.

6th September 2012, 11:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

I have one Cam and yes its from Citroen.

Just the studs and bolts to get then saved the rest of the pennies and order the mani.

Please be a easy job...

Seriosly mate look into the stainless bolts.Stainless bolts. They look so much better and also you get the benefit of them been cheaper and never rusting. Also make tightening the underside on the after market manifold easier.

6th September 2012, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

Yeah I would use a genuine Citroen one too they are made from pressed metal and are stronger and iirc they are £6.32.

Sounds about right

I can't believe they charge £30 for something they'll buy on trade at Citroen :O shocking.

I find everything from Citroen is very well priced. Well anything iv asked for.

6th September 2012, 11:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

It is easy mann, just line it up right and dont do the studs up pissed ie do them up like a car head work from the inside out so the gasket seals to the best it can.

Yeah lining it up wouldnt be a problem. Also is there a order i should bolt them up in?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

Seriosly mate look into the stainless bolts.Stainless bolts. They look so much better and also you get the benefit of them been cheaper and never rusting. Also make tightening the underside on the after market manifold easier.

Added to my watch list but..

Chances of damaging the allen key hole? had bad exp with allen keys lol

Problem is im going to have to buy a tool to get the old studs out!? then the risk of them snapping cringes me more! I kind was hoping i could just nip the old nuts off and put the new ones on the originial studs.. sounds less hassle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wadoryu

Sounds about right

I can't believe they charge £30 for something they'll buy on trade at Citroen :O shocking.

I find everything from Citroen is very well priced. Well anything iv asked for.

I havent bought anything but the manifold gasket from citroen. People harp on how expensive they are so

6th September 2012, 11:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

Chances of damaging the allen key hole? had bad exp with allen keys lol
Problem is im going to have to buy a tool to get the old studs out!? then the risk of them snapping cringes me more! I kind was hoping i could just nip the old nuts off and put the new ones on the originial studs.. sounds less hassle.

Very little chance of screwing them up as long as you don't go stupid tight with them and use the correct size allen key.

And why are you going to need to buy a tool. All you do is put 2 nuts onto the stud tighten them up to each other and use the one closest to the head to undo the stud.....Just use plenty of wd40 let it soak in and warm the engine slightly.

6th September 2012, 12:02

Ah right well i didnt know mate ive just been told different stuff here and there! Ive never changed a manifold before so making sure i dont do a fuck up or its on my head.

Thanks for the help.

6th September 2012, 16:28

as bedford said the stainless allen bolts and the way he described for removing the studs, mine all came out easy till last 2 as nuts were rounded and had to get mole grips on them.

6th September 2012, 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcusd

as bedford said the stainless allen bolts and the way he described for removing the studs, mine all came out easy till last 2 as nuts were rounded and had to get mole grips on them.

Fair enough mate, well ive took a punt and ordered the bolts in the ebay link above.

Thanks for the help guise.

22nd September 2012, 22:47

should only ever really use stud and nut on an ally head

ive used bolts in the past as a stop gap in one or two holes..but you run massive risk of pulling threads out of the head

even when being careful..hence stud/nut is oe form and common practice

i know in not all cases its possible to use studs due to mani desing..but for the average OE or aftermarket mani theyll fit just fine with studs so why run the risk

22nd September 2012, 23:25

Trip to Citroen next week then.

Only £2.60 wasted so not all bad...

24th September 2012, 00:41

I would recomend buying a set of irwin extractors for this job, makes it much easier when nuts start rounding, also as said above bolts on an alloy head is risky, + avoid stainless for this, stainless will cold weld with the heat on the manifold, copper coated nuts and mild steel studs are used for a reason.

24th September 2012, 00:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by II_IFAN_II

I would recomend buying a set of irwin extractors for this job, makes it much easier when nuts start rounding, also as said above bolts on an alloy head is risky, + avoid stainless for this, stainless will cold weld with the heat on the manifold, copper coated nuts and mild steel studs are used for a reason.

Cheers.

Ah well i was unaware of that

Any links dude and is it pricey?

What im going to do is buy new studs/nuts from Citroen and if the whole stud and nut comes out in one, replace with new. If the nut just comes off on its own and the stud intact im just going to put fresh nuts on the old studs. I'll just clean them up.

"if its not broken leave it" and all that. Ive seen Blackies pic on this thread and i do not want that. I suppose it could happen undoing the nut.

24th September 2012, 01:24

Will be fine John as long as you undo them dead sqaure

24th September 2012, 01:28

There you go http://m.screwfix.com/p/irwin-5-piec...over-set/96028
Very handy tools

And aslong as u do the usual wd40, shocking, heat, shouldn't have any problems

24th September 2012, 01:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Will be fine John as long as you undo them dead sqaure

Shall to Cam

Quote:

Originally Posted by II_IFAN_II

There you go http:// http://m.screwfix.com/p/irwi...over-set/96028
Very handy tools

And aslong as u do the usual wd40, shocking, heat, shouldn't have any problems

Cheers mate.

I dont have anything to heat them up with other then starting the car up for a few mins :/

Got wd40 etc

24th September 2012, 01:43

Tools needed WD40 night before, deep good 13mm or 1/2 socket and good rachet, dont heat them up you will make them 10x more likely to snap.

Edit: typo it is 13mm

24th September 2012, 02:37

Nuts are m8.... so 13mm.... and yea heat up the engine i meant

24th September 2012, 03:32

man up and get on with it now. You've been chatting about it for long enough

24th September 2012, 09:02

I havent even got it yet