Are 266mm enough?

  1. #1
    I have 266s on the VTS, mongtec drilled and grooved discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.

    A few times the other week on track I sort of ran out of braking ability, it didn't lock up, but it just didn't stop enough, if that makes any sense?

    I'm presuming it was heat related and only really happened on the large straight, braking from 100 to 30 ish.

    Should I just live with this? try cooling them? go bigger?

    Thoughs guys?
  2. #2
    which track and how long had you been out, and what wheels?

    brake cooling ducts can help massively.
  3. #3
    Go 4 pot

    I have 283 with drilled and grooved disk and yellow stuff pads, when warm they are fab. however because I couldn't be arsed to upgrade my master cylinder I have... nothing, nothing... oh we've stopped and the wheels locked up lol.
  4. #4
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
    which track and how long had you been out, and what wheels?

    brake cooling ducts can help massively.
    Knockhill reverse, (sessions) so about 8 laps, giving it utter death, and Turinis.

    I'm no pro so I was probably overbreaking?
  5. #5
    You want the smallest size brakes possible that don't fade under your hardest driving conditions. as above, ducts will help massively, as will good fluid.

    Put off going to 283mm as long as you can (unless you're a style whore of course) - makes the front end noticeably crashy and less responsive imo.
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    You want the smallest size brakes possible that don't fade under your hardest driving conditions. as above, ducts will help massively, as will good fluid.

    Put off going to 283mm as long as you can (unless you're a style whore of course) - makes the front end noticeably crashy and less responsive imo.
    Agreed I love mine adds entertainment to driving, I only keep them cos they look awesome.
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  7. #7
    knockhill is quite a tough circuit on most vehicles apparently, one of the shortest courses in the UK with plenty of tight turns. Try somewhere like cadwell, oulton park or croft and see how you get on mate

    oh and let me know when you're doing your next track day - I'll do my best to get along as I'm crawling the walls for some track action at the minute!
  8. #8
    Ross, I understand that 266s are light?

    Wheeler I will do, I't only really been driven hard on that one day, FCS didn't really count.

    As for cooling I had planned to duct the fogs to the calipers, might do it over the winter, I've been reading a number of papers on it, was planning on making something to fit on the back of the disc from fiberglass maybe, god knows
  9. #9
    I would get some ducts onto the discs and calipers, change your fluid with something better and see how that goes.

    If the same problem occurs then look at the temperature range your pads work in and find another that is the next jump up in heat range.
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    Ross, I understand that 266s are light?

    Wheeler I will do, I't only really been driven hard on that one day, FCS didn't really count.

    As for cooling I had planned to duct the fogs to the calipers, might do it over the winter, I've been reading a number of papers on it, was planning on making something to fit on the back of the disc from fiberglass maybe, god knows
    Mate i'm no expert on brakes far from it - I'm not a track driver, just as you can imagine my brakes do get a pasting on the road as it's all high speed stuff, but nothing like track action. I do know that adding unsprung weight sucks everywhere, so you want the lightest of everything you can. Which is why I want split rotors/hubs rather than solid discs but at £500+ I'm too tight to buy em.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    was planning on making something to fit on the back of the disc from fiberglass maybe, god knows
    choose your resin wisely. You don't want to make something that will catch fire!
  12. #12
    Stupid question but have you got full braided lines across the whole braking setup? And when was the fluid last changed?
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by KamRacing View Post
    choose your resin wisely. You don't want to make something that will catch fire!

    oh, lol!
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by wheeler View Post
    Stupid question but have you got full braided lines across the whole braking setup? And when was the fluid last changed?
    copper pipes are arguably better as they cannot expand. They don't look as pretty though. even with braided hose ideally you want to use as little flexible hose as possible.
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  15. #15
    Cupcar AP's are nice and light.
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by wheeler View Post
    Stupid question but have you got full braided lines across the whole braking setup? And when was the fluid last changed?
    I have a 23mm MC to go in

    Exact Lines, and fresh AP 5.1 fluid
  17. #17
    Swap the fluid for ate super blue

    What wheels do you run!!

    The only time I got brake fade on my 306 was with 205 gti wheels on, due to the small holes not allowing air in or heat out
  18. #18
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by swampy View Post
    Swap the fluid for ate super blue

    What wheels do you run!!

    The only time I got brake fade on my 306 was with 205 gti wheels on, due to the small holes not allowing air in or heat out
    Speedline Turinis
  19. #19
    turinis should allow a fair bit of air through

    id look at fluid and pad compound being the issue
    ds2500 ive seen fade on round donnington on 266s after about 15 minutes on track

    cl brakes rc5+ on 247s i did 15 minutes at fcs and got no fade
    and ive done 25 minute sessions at mallory park again no dafe
    aswell as 2 very closely spaced sessions at rockingham and no fade

    thats with AP 5.1 fluid
    no braided lines
  20. #20
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    I have 266s on the VTS, mongtec drilled and grooved discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.

    A few times the other week on track I sort of ran out of braking ability, it didn't lock up, but it just didn't stop enough, if that makes any sense?

    I'm presuming it was heat related and only really happened on the large straight, braking from 100 to 30 ish.

    Should I just live with this? try cooling them? go bigger?

    Thoughs guys?
    They should be fine for track days as long as you have good and fresh brake fluid. Though they will heat up on longer runs. Best cheap option for longer runs is just vent air from the fog lamps to the brakes.
  21. #21
    any picks of how to make the air ducts?
  22. #22
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexB View Post
    turinis should allow a fair bit of air through

    id look at fluid and pad compound being the issue
    ds2500 ive seen fade on round donnington on 266s after about 15 minutes on track

    cl brakes rc5+ on 247s i did 15 minutes at fcs and got no fade
    and ive done 25 minute sessions at mallory park again no dafe
    aswell as 2 very closely spaced sessions at rockingham and no fade

    thats with AP 5.1 fluid
    no braided lines
    Cheers Alex I might try those pads

    I had 2500s on my Legacy and hi specs and they never faded???

    I'm going to get some in car tuition in the new year, it's probably my binary driving style
  23. #23
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    They should be fine for track days as long as you have good and fresh brake fluid. Though they will heat up on longer runs. Best cheap option for longer runs is just vent air from the fog lamps to the brakes.
    Im looking into this over the winter too,
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    Cheers Alex I might try those pads

    I had 2500s on my Legacy and hi specs and they never faded???

    I'm going to get some in car tuition in the new year, it's probably my binary driving style
    ive got 1155s in high specs currently and the 247s out perform them imo but they dont fade the larger discs deal with heat a lot better


    tuition is allways good you will allways find things you didnt know
    tbh id benefit a lot from it but i dont take instruction well lol
  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexB View Post
    ive got 1155s in high specs currently and the 247s out perform them imo but they dont fade the larger discs deal with heat a lot better


    tuition is allways good you will allways find things you didnt know
    tbh id benefit a lot from it but i dont take instruction well lol
    At least you're honest!
  26. #26
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Jimmy-Boy View Post
    any picks of how to make the air ducts?


    this one is not a saxo but will show you the sort of thing your looking at


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  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexB View Post
    turinis should allow a fair bit of air through

    id look at fluid and pad compound being the issue
    ds2500 ive seen fade on round donnington on 266s after about 15 minutes on track

    cl brakes rc5+ on 247s i did 15 minutes at fcs and got no fade
    and ive done 25 minute sessions at mallory park again no dafe
    aswell as 2 very closely spaced sessions at rockingham and no fade

    thats with AP 5.1 fluid
    no braided lines
    For a proper dedicated track car i'd be running the DS3000 rather than the DS2500. The DS2500 starts dropping off in performance about 300 degrees.
    The DS3000 is double that before fading. The DS3000 though needs a lot more heat to get fully working, making it unsuitable for normal road use where the brake system simply does not generate enough heat.
    The advantage of the CL Brakes RC5 is its consistency from cold to 1000 degrees. I'd not recommend these for road use as they do not come with any anti rattle shims. Until they get hot and expand in the caliper they can be tedious. They don't like the rapid cooling and heating under road use either - they dont tend to last particularly long when people try to use them through winter.

    Kev
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post


    this one is not a saxo but will show you the sort of thing your looking at


    Good stuff!

    I shall basically copy this
  29. #29
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by KamRacing View Post
    For a proper dedicated track car i'd be running the DS3000 rather than the DS2500. The DS2500 starts dropping off in performance about 300 degrees.
    The DS3000 is double that before fading. The DS3000 though needs a lot more heat to get fully working, making it unsuitable for normal road use where the brake system simply does not generate enough heat.
    The advantage of the CL Brakes RC5 is its consistency from cold to 1000 degrees. I'd not recommend these for road use as they do not come with any anti rattle shims. Until they get hot and expand in the caliper they can be tedious. They don't like the rapid cooling and heating under road use either - they dont tend to last particularly long when people try to use them through winter.

    Kev
    2500s werent my car but i agree on track 3000s are a better choice but id go rc5+ every time on a track car
    used on the road they seemed fine and over 8 months they have very little wear on tbh
  30. #30
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Mate i'm no expert on brakes far from it - I'm not a track driver, just as you can imagine my brakes do get a pasting on the road as it's all high speed stuff,

    All below 70 I do hope Mr Moderator?
  31. #31
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Jay_ View Post
    All below 70 I do hope Mr Moderator?
    No, to be honest. But I do try to keep it below 150 when in a built up area.
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  32. #32
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    No, to be honest. But I do try to keep it below 150 when in a built up area.
    lol it would be unsafe for a saxo to do 150mph there to light, it would take off lol....
  33. #33
    280mm caiplers
    black dimond combi discs
    ds2500 pads
    braided brake lines
    dot 5.1 fuild

    thats what my mate runs and its heavyer than a saxo (much) and it stops like no tomorrow.
  34. #34
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Old_School_Saxo View Post
    lol it would be unsafe for a saxo to do 150mph there to light, it would take off lol....
    from personal experience, I can tell you they dont
    But it does focus ones mind somewhat
  35. #35
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    from personal experience, I can tell you they dont
    But it does focus ones mind somewhat
    I would never do that speed in a saxo hell i wouldnt do it in my fiesta, small light cars + High Speed = Big Crash.
  36. #36
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Old_School_Saxo View Post
    280mm caiplers
    black dimond combi discs
    ds2500 pads
    braided brake lines
    dot 5.1 fuild

    thats what my mate runs and its heavyer than a saxo (much) and it stops like no tomorrow.

    I had a Hi Spec Monster 6 kit 330mm on my Legacy, and Ds2500 pads all round, braided lines and decent fluid, that never faded and it was a 170mph rocket, my saxo did fade, hence the thread
  37. #37
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    I had a Hi Spec Monster 6 kit 330mm on my Legacy, and Ds2500 pads all round, braided lines and decent fluid, that never faded and it was a 170mph rocket, my saxo did fade, hence the thread
    saxo brakes are rubbish ive just renewed all my brakes all round (stock items) and i can only just stop the car when driving on the road, Get some high spec 285mm 4 pots for the saxo thay do make then for them for like £500..
  38. #38
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Old_School_Saxo View Post
    lol it would be unsafe for a saxo to do 150mph there to light, it would take off lol....
    150 is fine Try 160mph the front becomes very very light
  39. #39
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AXracing View Post
    150 is fine Try 160mph the front becomes very very light
    I can ALSO confirm this is true lol
  40. #40
    Ive got

    hispec ultralight 4pots
    running 264mm discs
    M1155 pads
    Braided lines

    Works great.. No fade.

    Only thing i dont like about the 1155s is they need heat to work and like to be kept hot. And they squeel when cold